How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2015 Ram 1500
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2015 Ram 1500
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and alignment tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Tie Rod End - Replacement
The outer tie rod end connects the steering rack to the steering knuckle. If it has play, torn grease boot, or clunking, replacing it will restore steering feel and help keep the truck aligned.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Lift the front only with the truck on level ground and support it securely with jack stands.
- Keep hands clear of the steering linkage while separating the tie rod end.
- Do not hammer directly on the steering rack or ball stud.
- An alignment is required after this repair.
- No battery disconnect is required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm lug wrench
- 21mm socket
- 18mm wrench
- 17mm socket
- Ratchet
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- Tie rod end puller (specialty)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
- New cotter pin - Qty: 1
- Alignment service - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Center the steering wheel before starting.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting.
- Mark the current tie rod length with a paint marker so the new part starts close to the old setting.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and secure the front end
- Use the floor jack to lift the front of your Ram at the proper lift point.
- Support it with jack stands under the frame.
- Remove the front wheel with the 21mm lug wrench.
Step 2: Mark the tie rod setting
- Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the tie rod end and adjusting sleeve.
- This gives you a close starting point for toe alignment.
- Keep the steering wheel centered.
Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
- Use needle-nose pliers to pull out the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
- Use the 21mm socket or 18mm wrench to remove the castle nut, depending on the nut style installed.
- Leave the nut on a few threads if the stud is tight in the knuckle.
Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle
- Use a tie rod end puller (specialty) to press the stud out of the steering knuckle.
- If needed, tap the knuckle lightly while applying tension with the puller.
- Remove the nut completely and free the stud.
Step 5: Remove the outer tie rod end
- Count the turns as you unthread the outer tie rod end from the adjusting sleeve.
- Use the 18mm wrench to hold the sleeve if it wants to move.
- Install the new tie rod end with the same number of turns as the old one.
Step 6: Install the new tie rod end
- Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the sleeve by hand.
- Match the paint mark and the turn count as closely as possible.
- Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
- Install the new castle nut.
- Torque the tie rod end nut to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Install the cotter pin
- Align the nut slots with the hole in the stud.
- Use needle-nose pliers to install the new cotter pin.
- Fold the ends of the cotter pin over securely.
Step 8: Tighten the jam nut
- Use the 18mm wrench to hold the tie rod end.
- Tighten the jam nut on the adjusting sleeve.
- Torque the jam nut to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reinstall the wheel
- Install the wheel and snug the lug nuts by hand.
- Lower the truck to the ground with the floor jack.
- Torque the lug nuts to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Start the truck and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to check for binding.
- Road test slowly and listen for clunks or pulling.
- Get a professional front-end alignment as soon as possible.
- If you replaced both sides, confirm the steering wheel is centered after alignment.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $200-$400 (parts + labor + alignment)
DIY Cost: $40-$90 (parts only)
You Save: $160-$310 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















