🔧 Forte - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle and lets the front wheels turn. Replacing it restores tight steering and fixes play or a torn boot, but you’ll still need an alignment afterward to prevent tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

Assumption: replacing the front outer tie rod end (left or right).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🧤 Wear eye protection; rust flakes and dirt fall when separating the joint.
• 🔥 Let brakes/rotors cool before working near them.
• 📏 Get a professional alignment after replacement to avoid pulling and uneven tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8" (10–100 ft-lbs)
• Torque wrench 1/2" (50–200 ft-lbs)
• 21mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Open-end wrench set (17mm–22mm)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Tape measure

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1
• Grease (chassis grease) - Qty: 1 (if tie rod has a grease fitting)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, point the steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod jam nut threads and the tie rod end nut area; wait 5–10 minutes.
• Know these terms: the jam nut locks the toe setting; the castle nut is the slotted nut that uses a cotter pin to keep it from backing off.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the wheel lug nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" to crack the front wheel lug nuts loose about 1/2 turn.

Step 2: Lift and support the front corner

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift at the front jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Give the car a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 3: Remove the wheel

• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Remove the wheel and set it aside.

Step 4: Mark your current alignment position

• Use a wire brush to clean the threads at the jam nut.
• Use a paint marker to mark a line across the jam nut and inner tie rod threads.
• Use a tape measure to measure from the center of the tie rod end stud to a fixed point on the inner tie rod, and write it down.
• This helps keep toe close for the drive to alignment.

Step 5: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod with an open-end wrench (19mm–22mm) if it wants to turn.
• Loosen the jam nut using an open-end wrench set (17mm–22mm) by turning it counterclockwise (do not move it far yet).

Step 6: Remove the cotter pin

• Straighten the cotter pin legs using needle-nose pliers.
• Pull the cotter pin out with needle-nose pliers.
• If it breaks, cut and remove it with diagonal cutters.

Step 7: Remove the tie rod end castle nut

• Remove the castle nut using a 17mm socket (some replacements use 19mm socket).
• If the stud spins, apply upward pressure on the tie rod end while loosening, or use an open-end wrench set (17mm–22mm) on the stud’s flats (if equipped).

Step 8: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install and tighten a tie rod end puller (specialty) until the taper “pops” loose.
• If needed, tap the side of the knuckle boss (not the stud) with a hammer (16 oz) to help it release.
• Don’t hit the threaded stud.

Step 9: Unscrew the old tie rod end

• Count the exact number of turns as you spin the tie rod end off the inner tie rod.
• Write the number down (example: 16.5 turns).

Step 10: Install the new tie rod end

• Thread the new tie rod end on by hand the exact same number of turns you counted.
• Line up your paint marker reference as closely as possible.
• If your new tie rod end has a grease fitting, add a small amount of chassis grease (don’t overfill the boot).

Step 11: Attach the stud into the knuckle and torque the nut

• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the new castle nut and tighten with a 17mm socket (or 19mm socket as equipped).
• Torque to 35–45 Nm (26–33 ft-lbs), then continue tightening just enough to align the castle nut slot with the cotter pin hole.
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers, then bend the legs over securely.

Step 12: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end body with an open-end wrench set (17mm–22mm) to prevent twisting the boot.
• Tighten the jam nut with an open-end wrench set (17mm–22mm).
• Torque to 55–75 Nm (41–55 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reinstall the wheel

• Install the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum), then remove the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 88–108 Nm (65–80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm nothing binds or rubs.
• Road test at low speed first; steering wheel should be close to centered and the car should not wander.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day if you can).
• Recheck the castle nut cotter pin and jam nut area for tightness after a short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $200-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $30-$90 (parts only, alignment extra)

You Save: $120-$360 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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