🔧 Fusion - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the front knuckle, letting the wheel steer while staying aligned. Replacing it restores tight steering and prevents uneven tire wear, but you’ll still need a professional alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours (one side)

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the Fusion with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• 🛑 Chock the rear wheels and work on level ground.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear when separating the joint; parts can “pop” free suddenly.
• 🛑 After replacement, get a front-end alignment ASAP to avoid tire wear.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil
• Combination wrench set (metric)
• Socket set (metric)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Hammer (2 lb)
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (for tie rod end stud) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering wheel centered, and set the parking brake.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the outer tie rod end’s jam nut threads and the stud nut area.
• Tip: Take a quick photo of the old setup.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption: This is the front outer tie rod end (at the wheel), not the inner tie rod.

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Lift the front corner with a floor jack at the proper jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands.
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm lug nut socket.

Step 2: Mark your “starting point” (helps keep toe close)

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut (the lock nut that holds the tie rod end’s adjustment).
• Measure from a fixed point (like the tie rod end housing) to the jam nut using a tape measure and write it down.
• Tip: This helps you drive to the alignment shop safely.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and stud nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin (a small safety pin through the nut) using needle-nose pliers and diagonal cutters.
• Remove the tie rod end stud nut using the correctly-sized metric socket and a breaker bar if needed.

Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud pops free. (A tie rod end puller is a clamp tool that presses the stud out without damaging the boot.)
• If it’s stubborn, tap the side of the knuckle near the stud hole with a hammer (2 lb) while the puller is tightened.

Step 5: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod area steady with one combination wrench (metric) and loosen the jam nut with another combination wrench (metric).
• Use a wire brush to clean exposed threads if needed.

Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end (count turns)

• Spin the outer tie rod end off by hand, counting the exact number of turns until it comes off (example: 17.5 turns). Write it down.
• This turn count helps keep alignment close enough to drive for a proper alignment.

Step 7: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the threads.
• Thread the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted, by hand.
• Snug the jam nut by hand against the new tie rod end.

Step 8: Reconnect to the knuckle and torque fasteners

• Insert the stud into the knuckle.
• Install the stud nut and tighten with the correct metric socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 41 Nm (30 ft-lbs), then continue tightening only as needed to align the cotter pin hole.
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over.
• Hold the tie rod end with a combination wrench (metric) and tighten the jam nut using a combination wrench (metric).
• Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the Fusion off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

---

✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly and confirm nothing binds or rubs.
• Road test at low speed first. Steering should feel centered and stable.
• Schedule a professional alignment immediately (recommended same day).
• Re-check lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$350 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.