🔧 Focus - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle at the wheel. Replacing it restores safe steering and reduces clunks, looseness, and uneven tire wear. You’ll remove the old end, install the new one at the same approximate length, then get an alignment.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

Assumption: torque specs vary by hardware; verify with Ford service info.

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear when separating the joint; it can “pop” loose suddenly.
• 🛑 Wear eye protection when using a pickle fork or hammer.
• 🛑 After replacement, drive straight to an alignment shop; toe settings will change.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil
• 21mm open-end wrench
• 22mm open-end wrench
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Pickle fork separator (specialty)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (new) - Qty: 1
• Jam nut (if not reusable) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Break the front wheel lug nuts loose using a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Turn the steering wheel so you can easily access the tie rod end and jam nut.
• Spray penetrating oil on the jam nut and the tie rod end nut; let it soak 5–10 minutes.
• Take photos before disassembly.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Lift the front corner using a floor jack at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands and give it a firm shake test.
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm lug nut socket and remove the wheel.

Step 2: Mark the current position (so the new part goes on close)

• Use a paint marker to mark the jam nut position on the inner tie rod threads.
• Measure from a fixed point (example: the end of the inner tie rod) to the center of the outer tie rod stud using a tape measure. Write it down.
• This helps keep toe close for the alignment drive.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod with a 22mm open-end wrench (or the best-fitting wrench you have listed).
• Loosen the jam nut using a 21mm open-end wrench by turning it counterclockwise.
• If it’s rusty, use penetrating oil and clean threads with a wire brush.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin (if equipped)

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and side cutters.
• Discard it. Always install a new cotter pin.

Step 5: Remove the tie rod end nut from the knuckle

• Remove the nut on the tie rod stud (at the steering knuckle) using the appropriate wrench from your list (commonly 21mm open-end wrench).
• If the stud spins, apply upward pressure to the tie rod end while turning the nut (use the tie rod end puller (specialty) lightly tightened to load the taper).

Step 6: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Preferred method: Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the taper “pops” free. (A puller is a screw tool that pushes the stud out of the knuckle without damaging boots.)
• Alternate method: Use a pickle fork separator (specialty) and strike it with a hammer (16 oz) until it separates. (This can tear boots; use only if needed.)

Step 7: Remove the old outer tie rod end

• Spin the outer tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand.
• Count the turns as you remove it and write the number down.

Step 8: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
• Thread the new outer tie rod end on the inner tie rod the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Align it to match your paint mark and measurement as closely as possible.

Step 9: Install the stud into the knuckle and tighten

• Insert the tie rod stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the new nut and tighten using the correct wrench.
• Torque to Ford specification using a torque wrench.
• If it uses a castellated nut: align the slots and install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers. Never loosen to align; tighten further to align.

Step 10: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod with a 22mm open-end wrench.
• Tighten the jam nut against the new tie rod end using a 21mm open-end wrench.
• Torque to Ford specification using a torque wrench if you have a crowfoot that fits; otherwise tighten firmly while holding the inner tie rod steady.

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque the lug nuts to Ford specification using a torque wrench in a star pattern.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the car and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock; confirm smooth movement and no binding.
• Road test at low speed first; confirm steering wheel is centered and there are no clunks.
• Get a professional 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
• Recheck the jam nut area visually after the test drive for any movement.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $25-$90 (parts only)

You Save: $90-$260 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.