🔧 Escape - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

This repair replaces the outer tie rod end, which connects the steering rack to the front wheel knuckle and helps steer your Escape. A worn tie rod end can cause looseness, clunking, uneven tire wear, or wandering steering.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours per side

Assumption: This procedure covers the front outer tie rod end on your Escape.

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands to support the vehicle before putting any part of your body near the wheel well.
• ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the steering knuckle or tie rod stud threads.
• ⚠️ Count the turns when removing the old tie rod end. This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after replacement to prevent tire wear and steering pull.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 15mm wrench
• 18mm wrench
• 21mm wrench
• 18mm socket
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Outer tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil
• Anti-seize compound
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front outer tie rod end - Qty: 1 per side
• New cotter pin - Qty: 1 per side
• New tie rod end castle nut or lock nut - Qty: 1 per side

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Escape on level ground with the steering wheel centered.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• A tie rod end puller is a small press tool that separates the tie rod stud from the steering knuckle without damaging parts.
• Plan to get a professional alignment immediately after this repair.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen before lifting the vehicle.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Escape

• Use the floor jack at the correct front jacking point to raise the front of your Escape.
• Place jack stands under the approved front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheel

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and place it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Inspect and Mark the Tie Rod Position

• Find the outer tie rod end at the rear side of the steering knuckle.
• Use the wire brush to clean the threaded area where the outer tie rod end meets the inner tie rod.
• Use penetrating oil on the jam nut and tie rod threads.
• Use the paint marker to mark the current position of the jam nut on the threads.
• Use the tape measure to measure from the jam nut to the center of the tie rod stud, then write that measurement down.
• A jam nut is the locking nut that keeps the tie rod end from turning after adjustment.

Step 5: Loosen the Jam Nut

• Use the 21mm wrench on the jam nut.
• Use the 15mm wrench or 18mm wrench on the tie rod end flats if needed to hold it steady.
• Turn the jam nut loose about one full turn, but do not move it far from your paint mark.
• Do not lose your alignment reference.

Step 6: Remove the Cotter Pin and Tie Rod Nut

• If equipped with a cotter pin, use needle-nose pliers to straighten the pin ends.
• Use side cutters or needle-nose pliers to pull the cotter pin out.
• Use the 18mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the tie rod end retaining nut.
• If the stud spins, press down on the tie rod end by hand while loosening the nut with the 18mm socket.

Step 7: Separate the Tie Rod End from the Steering Knuckle

• Install the outer tie rod end puller over the tie rod end and steering knuckle connection.
• Use the correct wrench or socket supplied for the outer tie rod end puller to tighten the puller screw.
• Continue tightening until the tie rod end pops loose from the steering knuckle.
• Do not strike the aluminum steering knuckle with a hammer.

Step 8: Remove the Old Outer Tie Rod End

• Turn the old outer tie rod end counterclockwise by hand or with the 18mm wrench.
• Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove it.
• Write the number down immediately.
• Leave the jam nut close to its original paint mark.

Step 9: Install the New Outer Tie Rod End

• Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
• Thread the new outer tie rod end on by hand the same number of turns counted during removal.
• Line it up with your paint mark and your recorded measurement.
• Use the 21mm wrench to snug the jam nut against the new outer tie rod end, but do not fully tighten yet.

Step 10: Attach the Tie Rod End to the Steering Knuckle

• Insert the new tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the new retaining nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the tie rod end nut to Torque to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
• If the replacement part uses a castle nut, continue tightening only enough to line up the cotter pin hole.
• Install the new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends around the nut.

Step 11: Tighten the Jam Nut

• Hold the tie rod end steady with the 18mm wrench.
• Use the 21mm wrench to tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end.
• Final tightening should be firm and secure. If using a crowfoot adapter and torque wrench, tighten the jam nut to Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
• Make sure the tie rod end boot is not twisted.

Step 12: Reinstall the Wheel

• Lift the wheel onto the hub by hand.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 13: Lower and Torque the Wheel

• Use the floor jack to raise the vehicle slightly and remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Escape until the tire touches the ground.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Turn the steering wheel slowly left and right to confirm there is no binding or clunking.
• ✅ Test drive at low speed first and check that the steering wheel returns normally.
• ✅ Avoid highway speeds until the alignment is checked.
• ✅ Get a professional front wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• ✅ Recheck the jam nut and tie rod nut after the first short drive.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 per side (parts + labor, alignment not always included)

DIY Cost: $35-$90 per side (parts only)

You Save: $145-$260 per side by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.3 hours per side.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.