🔧 Cruze - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle and allows the front wheels to turn. Replacing it restores tight steering and prevents uneven tire wear, but you must preserve the alignment as closely as possible and get a professional alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Cruze on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛞 Chock the rear wheels and keep the car in 1st gear with the parking brake set.
• 👀 Wear safety glasses; rust and debris often fall when separating the joint.
• 📏 An alignment is required after replacement to prevent tire wear and pulling.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)
• Metric socket set (10–24mm)
• Metric wrench set (10–24mm)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Wire brush
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Penetrating oil
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• New tie rod end-to-knuckle nut - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1 (only if your setup uses one)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, straighten the steering wheel, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship between the outer tie rod end and the inner tie rod threads. This helps you keep toe (wheel angle) close until alignment.
• Spray penetrating oil on the jam nut area and the tie-rod stud nut at the knuckle. Let it soak for 5–10 minutes.
• Plan an alignment the same day.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the wheel lug nuts

• Use a 19mm lug socket with a breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn while the tire is still on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and support the front corner

• Lift the front corner using a floor jack at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands and give the car a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 3: Remove the wheel

• Remove the lug nuts using the 19mm lug socket and take the wheel off.

Step 4: Measure and mark for a close alignment

• Use a tape measure to measure from a fixed point on the outer tie rod end to a fixed point on the inner tie rod (or count visible threads). Write it down.
• Use a paint marker to add a clear line across the jam nut and inner tie rod threads.
• These marks help you match the old length.

Step 5: Loosen the jam nut

• Clean exposed threads with a wire brush.
• Hold the inner tie rod area with a metric wrench if needed, and loosen the jam nut using a metric wrench set.
• Back the jam nut off a few turns, but do not move it far.

Step 6: Remove the tie rod end stud nut at the knuckle

• If your tie rod uses a cotter pin, remove it using needle-nose pliers.
• Remove the nut using the appropriate metric socket and a breaker bar.

Step 7: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud pops free from the knuckle.
• If it’s stubborn, tap the knuckle boss (the thick area where the stud goes through) with a hammer (16 oz) while keeping tension on the puller.
• Don’t hammer directly on the stud threads.

Step 8: Unthread and remove the old outer tie rod end

• Spin the outer tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand.
• Count the number of turns it takes to remove it, and write the number down.

Step 9: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Thread the new tie rod end on by hand the same number of turns you counted.
• Line up your paint marker marks and match your tape measure measurement as closely as possible.

Step 10: Seat the stud into the knuckle and tighten

• Insert the tie-rod stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the new nut by hand, then tighten with a metric socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to OEM specification.
• If equipped with a castle nut, install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers after torquing.

Step 11: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the outer tie rod end body with a metric wrench.
• Tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end using a metric wrench set.
• Torque to OEM specification.

Step 12: Reinstall the wheel and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-start the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to OEM specification.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly to confirm smooth movement and no popping noises.
• Road test at low speed first. Confirm the steering wheel is close to straight and the car doesn’t pull hard.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
• Recheck the jam nut area visually after the first short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$400 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $30-$120 (parts only, alignment extra)

You Save: $150-$280 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.