🔧 NX200t - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end is the steering joint that connects the tie rod to the steering knuckle at the wheel. When it wears, you can get steering play, clunks, or uneven tire wear—replacement restores safe, tight steering.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Always support your NX200t with jack stands; never work under a vehicle held only by a jack.
• 🛑 Chock the rear wheels, keep the transmission in Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🛑 Steering joints can release suddenly—keep fingers clear of pinch points.
• 🛑 Plan for an alignment after the repair; toe can change even if you count turns.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Penetrating oil
• Wire brush
• Adjustable wrench (10-12")
• Open-end wrench set (17mm-24mm)
• Socket set (17mm-22mm)
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1
• Castle nut (tie rod end) - Qty: 1 (if not included with new part)

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧭 Park on level ground with the steering wheel straight.
• 🧭 Loosen the lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• 🧭 Spray penetrating oil on the jam nut (lock nut) and the tie rod end stud nut.
• 🧭 Use a wire brush to clean exposed threads so the jam nut turns smoothly.
• 🧭 Jam nut = lock nut that sets alignment.
• 🧭 Ball joint separator = tool that pops a tapered joint loose.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift the corner and remove the wheel

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Loosen lug nuts using a lug wrench or 21mm socket with a breaker bar.
• Lift using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove lug nuts with a 21mm socket and remove the wheel.

Step 2: Mark your “baseline” so alignment stays close

• Use a paint marker to mark the jam nut position on the threads.
• Use a tape measure to measure from the tie rod end housing to the jam nut (write it down).
• These references help you reassemble consistently.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin

• Straighten the cotter pin legs using needle-nose pliers.
• Pull the cotter pin out using needle-nose pliers or cut it with diagonal cutters.

Step 4: Loosen (but don’t remove) the tie rod end nut

• Use the correct-size socket set (17mm-22mm) to loosen the nut a few turns, leaving it on the stud for safety.
• Leaving the nut on prevents a sudden drop.

Step 5: Separate the taper from the steering knuckle

• Position the ball joint separator (specialty) at the tie rod end joint and operate it until the joint “pops” free.
• If it’s stubborn, strike the side of the steering knuckle (not the stud threads) using a hammer (16 oz).
• Once separated, remove the nut fully using the socket set (17mm-22mm) and lift the stud out of the knuckle.

Step 6: Break the jam nut loose

• Hold the inner tie rod area steady with an adjustable wrench (10-12") if needed.
• Use an appropriately sized wrench from the open-end wrench set (17mm-24mm) to turn the jam nut counterclockwise.
• Back the jam nut away a few turns, but leave it on the threads.

Step 7: Remove the old tie rod end (count turns)

• Unscrew the tie rod end by hand, counting each full turn until it comes off.
• Write the number of turns down.

Step 8: Install the new tie rod end

• Screw the new tie rod end on with the same number of turns you counted.
• Align the stud with the steering knuckle hole and push it fully into place.
• Install the new nut by hand first (prevents cross-threading).

Step 9: Torque the tie rod end nut and install the cotter pin

• Tighten the tie rod end nut using a torque wrench (20-200 Nm range) and the correct socket from the socket set (17mm-22mm): Torque to OEM specification.
• If it’s a castle nut, tighten slightly more only as needed to line up the cotter pin hole.
• Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs using needle-nose pliers.

Step 10: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end body with a wrench from the open-end wrench set (17mm-24mm).
• Tighten the jam nut using the open-end wrench set (17mm-24mm): Torque to OEM specification.

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and snug lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (20-200 Nm range) and 21mm socket: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Start with a slow test drive and confirm the steering wheel returns smoothly and there are no clunks.
• 🧪 Recheck that the cotter pin is fully installed and the jam nut is tight.
• 🧪 Get a professional alignment as soon as possible to protect your tires.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor; alignment often extra)

DIY Cost: $40-$130 (parts only)

You Save: $120-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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