🔧 K900 - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack (through the inner tie rod) to the steering knuckle at the wheel. Replacing it restores tight steering and corrects looseness, but you’ll still need an alignment afterward because toe setting can change.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

Assumption: Common K900 fastener sizes/torques are used—verify sizes on your car before applying force.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands on solid ground—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛞 Chock the rear wheels and keep the transmission in P.
• 👓 Wear safety glasses; rust and dirt fall when separating the joint.
• 🔥 If using a hammer near the knuckle, keep clear of the brake dust shield and ABS wiring.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8" (10–100 ft-lbs)
• Torque wrench 1/2" (50–200 ft-lbs)
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Ball joint / tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Pickle fork separator (specialty)
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure (metric/inch)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (for tie rod end stud) - Qty: 1
• New castle nut (if not included with tie rod end) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧭 Park on level ground, steering wheel straight, and set the parking brake.
• 🛞 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting (about 1/4 turn).
• 🧴 Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod jam nut and the tie rod end stud nut. Let it soak 5–10 minutes.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut on the threaded tie rod. This helps keep the toe close until alignment.
• Toe = the tire pointing in/out.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front corner at the proper jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) securely under the front support point and lower onto the stands.
• Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Measure and mark for a close-to-original alignment

• Use a tape measure to measure from the tie rod end housing to the end of the inner tie rod threads (or another repeatable reference point). Write it down.
• Use a paint marker to mark the jam nut position relative to the inner tie rod.
• These marks help you drive to alignment.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod/flat area with a 17mm wrench (if equipped with flats), and loosen the jam nut using a 19mm wrench.
• Only break it loose 1/8–1/4 turn. Do not move it far yet.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the stud

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers (or cut it with side cutters if rusty).
• Remove the castle nut using a 19mm socket or 21mm socket (whichever fits).
• Never reuse an old cotter pin.

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a ball joint / tie rod end puller (specialty) over the stud and tighten until the taper “pops” free.
• If you don’t have the puller, use a pickle fork separator (specialty) and a hammer (16 oz) to separate it (this can damage the boot, which is okay if you’re replacing it).
• A taper joint releases suddenly—keep fingers clear.

Step 6: Remove the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod

• Spin the outer tie rod end off by turning it counterclockwise by hand.
• Count the exact number of turns it takes to remove (example: 17.5 turns). Write it down.

Step 7: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
• Thread the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Position the stud into the steering knuckle.

Step 8: Tighten the tie rod end nut and install the cotter pin

• Tighten the new castle nut using a 19mm socket or 21mm socket.
• Torque to 45–60 Nm (33–44 ft-lbs), then continue tightening just enough to align the castle nut slot with the hole in the stud.
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over.

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with a 17mm wrench (or hold the inner tie rod flats if equipped), and tighten the jam nut using a 19mm wrench.
• Torque to 70–90 Nm (52–66 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2" (50–200 ft-lbs) and a 19mm socket.
• Torque to 90–110 Nm (66–81 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 With the engine running, turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm smooth movement and no binding/noise.
• 👀 Visually recheck: cotter pin installed, castle nut fully seated, jam nut tight, boot not twisted.
• 🚗 Drive slowly at first and confirm the steering wheel is close to centered.
• 🧰 Get a professional alignment ASAP (toe setting). Driving too long without alignment can wear tires quickly.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor + alignment often extra)

DIY Cost: $45-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $175-$310 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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