How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2014 Toyota Prius
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2014 Toyota Prius
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs


π§ Prius - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement
The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle, letting the front wheels turn while still moving up and down with the suspension. Replacement is usually needed when the joint gets loose (clunking, wandering) or the boot tears and grease leaks out.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
Assumption: replacing an outer tie rod end (not the inner).
β οΈ Safety & Precautions
- π Support your Prius with jack stands on solid, level ground; never rely on a jack alone.
- π§€ Wear safety glasses; rust and dirt fall straight down while you work.
- β‘ Hybrid note: you do not need to disable the hybrid system for this job, but avoid touching any orange high-voltage cables.
- π₯ If you just drove, let brakes/rotors cool before working near the wheel area.
π§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- Breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)
- Ratchet (1/2-inch drive)
- Socket set (10β24mm)
- Open-end wrench set (14β24mm)
- Torque wrench (10β150 ft-lb)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Side cutters
- Tie rod end puller (specialty)
- Paint marker
- Tape measure
- Penetrating oil
- Wire brush
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
π© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
- Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
- Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
π Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, straighten the steering wheel, and power the car OFF.
- Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the car.
- Spray penetrating oil on the tie-rod end threads and the knuckle stud area; let it soak 5β10 minutes.
π¨ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheel
- Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn.
- Lift the front corner with a floor jack and set the car on jack stands.
- Remove lug nuts with a 21mm socket and take the wheel off.
Step 2: Mark your alignment reference
- Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod end and the jam nut relationship.
- Use a tape measure to measure from the tie rod end center to a fixed point on the tie rod (or count exposed threads). Write it down.
- This helps keep toe close for the drive to alignment.
Step 3: Loosen the jam nut
- Use an open-end wrench set (14β24mm) to hold the tie rod if needed.
- Use an open-end wrench set (14β24mm) to loosen the jam nut (the nut behind the tie rod end) about 1β2 turns.
Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut
- Use needle-nose pliers and side cutters to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
- Use a socket set (10β24mm) to remove the castle nut from the stud.
Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
- Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) on the knuckle and stud.
- Tighten the puller using a socket set (10β24mm) until the stud βpopsβ free.
- A puller protects the boot and knuckle.
Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end from the tie rod
- Spin the tie rod end off by hand, counting the exact number of turns it takes to come off.
- Use a wire brush to clean the exposed threads on the tie rod.
Step 7: Install the new tie rod end
- Apply a light coating of anti-seize compound to the tie rod threads.
- Thread the new tie rod end on by hand the same number of turns you counted during removal.
- Line up your paint marks and measurement as closely as possible.
Step 8: Attach the stud to the steering knuckle and torque
- Insert the tie rod end stud into the knuckle.
- Install the castle nut by hand, then tighten using a socket set (10β24mm).
- Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lb), then continue tightening only as needed to align the cotter-pin hole with the castle nut slots.
- Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers, then bend the ends over to lock it.
Step 9: Tighten the jam nut
- Hold the tie rod end with an open-end wrench set (14β24mm) so it doesnβt rotate.
- Tighten the jam nut using an open-end wrench set (14β24mm).
- Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lb).
Step 10: Reinstall the wheel
- Put the wheel on and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench (10β150 ft-lb): Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lb).
β After Repair
- Start the Prius and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while stationary; listen for clunks and confirm smooth movement.
- Road test at low speed first; steering wheel may be slightly off-center.
- Get a professional front-end alignment as soon as possible; tie rod length sets toe and can ruin tires quickly if off.
- Recheck the cotter pin and visible hardware after the first short drive.
π° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor + basic alignment check; full alignment may be extra)
DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $130-$350 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
π― Ready to get started?
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