🔧 Forester - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the front wheel knuckle and lets you steer. Replacing it restores tight steering and fixes looseness, clunking, or uneven tire wear.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (plus alignment)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Forester with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛑 Keep fingers clear of the puller/pickle fork area; parts can pop free suddenly.
• 🛑 After replacement, get a professional wheel alignment ASAP to prevent tire wear.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range)
• 17mm socket
• 19mm wrench
• Adjustable wrench (12")
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Ball joint separator/pickle fork (specialty)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (new) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, center the steering wheel, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the tie-rod threads and the jam nut position. This helps keep the toe setting close until alignment.
• 📏 Measure and write down the distance from the outer tie rod end to a fixed point (or count exact turns when removing). This helps you install it close.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the wheel lug nuts

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" to loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn.

Step 2: Lift and support the front corner

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front corner you’re working on.
• Set the vehicle securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm socket.

Step 3: Loosen the tie rod jam nut

• Spray the threads and jam nut with penetrating oil.
• Hold the inner tie rod area steady with an adjustable wrench (12") if needed.
• Use a 19mm wrench to loosen the jam nut (do not move it far—just break it loose).

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end nut

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten the cotter pin legs.
• Use side cutters and needle-nose pliers to pull the cotter pin out.

Step 5: Remove the tie rod end nut from the knuckle

• Use a 17mm socket to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.

Step 6: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Preferred method: use a tie rod end puller (specialty) to press the stud out of the knuckle. (A puller is a screw tool that pushes the stud out without hammering.)
• If using a backup method, use a ball joint separator/pickle fork (specialty) and hammer (16 oz) to pop it free. Pickle forks can damage the boot.

Step 7: Remove the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod

• Spin the outer tie rod end off by hand and count the exact number of turns.
• Write the number down (example: 17 turns). You will install the new one with the same number of turns.

Step 8: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Thread the new tie rod end on by hand the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Line up the stud with the knuckle hole and push it into place.

Step 9: Tighten the tie rod end nut and install a new cotter pin

• Install the castle nut by hand, then use a torque wrench with a 17mm socket.
• Torque to 37 Nm (27 ft-lbs), then continue tightening only as needed to align the cotter pin hole.
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers, then bend the legs over securely.

Step 10: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end so it doesn’t rotate, using an adjustable wrench (12") if needed.
• Use a 19mm wrench and torque wrench to tighten the jam nut.
• Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Use a torque wrench with a 19mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🚗 Start the engine and slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm nothing binds or clunks.
• 🛣️ Do a short, slow test drive. If the steering wheel is off-center or it pulls, stop and schedule alignment.
• 📐 Get a professional front wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• 🔎 Recheck the jam nut area for movement after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor, not including alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$350 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.