🔧 CX-5 - Tie Rod End Replacement

The tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle, and worn joints can cause clunks, loose steering, and uneven tire wear. Replacing it is very doable at home, but you must keep the alignment close and get a proper alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (per side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your CX-5 on jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear while separating the joint; parts can “pop” loose suddenly.
• 🛑 Do not hammer directly on the stud threads; it can ruin the new part fit.
• 🛑 Plan on a professional alignment after replacement to prevent tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench or 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Socket set (8mm-22mm)
• Open-end wrench set (14mm-22mm)
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Pliers
• Pick tool
• Ball joint separator or tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1
• Jam nut (if not included with tie rod end) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie-rod jam nut and the tie-rod end stud nut 10-15 minutes before you start.
• Quick questions (answer these and I’ll give you exact torque specs and any notes for your side):
  • Which side are you replacing: front left or front right?
  • Are you replacing the outer tie rod end only, or the inner + outer?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the wheel

• Use a lug wrench or 21mm socket to loosen the lug nuts about 1/2 turn while the tire is still on the ground.

Step 2: Lift and secure the front corner

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front corner at the approved jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Give the car a firm shake test.

Step 3: Remove the wheel

• Remove lug nuts with a lug wrench or 21mm socket, then remove the wheel.

Step 4: Mark your alignment reference

• Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod threads and the position of the jam nut.
• Use a tape measure to measure from a fixed point on the outer tie rod end to the jam nut, and write it down.
• This helps keep toe close enough to drive.

Step 5: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod with an open-end wrench and loosen the jam nut with a second open-end wrench.
• Do not spin it far yet—just “break it free.”

Step 6: Remove the cotter pin and stud nut

• Use pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
• Use a socket and ratchet to remove the tie rod end stud nut.
• If the cotter pin is stuck, use a pick tool to help lift it out.

Step 7: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a ball joint separator or tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud pops free.
• If needed, use a hammer (16 oz) to tap the side of the knuckle boss (not the stud) while tension is on the puller.
• “Knuckle boss” means the thick ear around the stud hole.

Step 8: Remove the tie rod end from the threads

• Spin the outer tie rod end off by hand, counting the turns as you remove it (example: 17.5 turns).
• Write the number of turns down.

Step 9: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the threads.
• Thread the new outer tie rod end on the exact same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Insert the stud into the knuckle.

Step 10: Tighten fasteners (torque specs coming after your answers)

• Snug the stud nut using a socket and ratchet.
• Snug the jam nut using open-end wrenches.
• Install a new cotter pin using pliers (never reuse the old one).
• Important: I’ll give you the correct Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) values once you tell me the side and whether it’s outer-only or inner+outer.

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel and lower

• Install the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack, then remove the jack stands.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and turn steering lock-to-lock while parked to confirm no binding or noises.
• Test drive slowly and confirm steering wheel is close to centered.
• Get a front wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day if you can).
• Recheck for any looseness by wiggling the tire at 3 and 9 o’clock after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹2,500-₹6,500 (parts + labor + basic alignment)

DIY Cost: ₹900-₹3,500 (parts only)

You Save: ₹1,600-₹3,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹800-₹2,000/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.