🔧 Fusion - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the wheel knuckle, and worn joints can cause clunking, loose steering, or uneven tire wear. Replacement is straightforward, but your toe alignment will change, so you should get an alignment right after.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛑 Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks and work on level ground.
• 🛑 Wear safety glasses; separating the joint can release suddenly.
• 🛑 Do not spin the steering wheel with the tie rod disconnected.
• 🛑 Get a professional alignment after replacement to prevent tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Lug nut socket 19mm
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2"
• Open-end wrench set (metric)
• Adjustable wrench 10"
• Pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Pickle fork separator (specialty)
• Hammer 2 lb
• Wire brush

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end stud) - Qty: 1
• Jam nut (outer tie rod end lock nut) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground and keep the steering wheel centered.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• 🔓 Slightly loosen the front wheel lug nuts using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• 📏 Measure and note a reference length: use a tape measure to record the distance between the tie rod end and a fixed point on the inner tie rod, and mark the jam nut position with a paint marker. This helps keep the toe close for the drive to the alignment shop.
• Assumption: Torque specs below are common for this platform; verify with a factory spec source if available.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Lift the front corner with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the approved lift point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Loosen the jam nut on the inner tie rod

• Spray the threads/jam nut with penetrating oil and clean exposed threads with a wire brush.
• Hold the inner tie rod with an open-end wrench set (metric) or adjustable wrench 10" so it doesn’t twist.
• Break the jam nut loose using an open-end wrench set (metric), but do not move it far yet.
• Mark the jam nut position with a paint marker.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin and loosen the tie rod end nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using pliers and diagonal cutters.
• Loosen (and remove) the tie rod end castle nut using an open-end wrench set (metric).
• Tip: If it spins, press up on the stud.

Step 4: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Use a tie rod end puller (specialty) to press the stud out of the knuckle. (A tie rod puller is a screw-type tool that pushes the stud out without hammering.)
• If you don’t have a puller, use a pickle fork separator (specialty) and a hammer 2 lb to pop it loose. (A pickle fork is a wedge tool; it can damage the rubber boot.)

Step 5: Remove the old tie rod end (count the turns)

• Spin the outer tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand, counting each full turn.
• Write the number down; you’ll install the new one with the same number of turns to keep alignment close.

Step 6: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
• Thread the new outer tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted.
• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the new nut and tighten with an open-end wrench set (metric) and finish with a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).
• Continue tightening slightly as needed to align the castle nut slot with the hole, then install a new cotter pin using pliers. Never loosen the nut to align the cotter pin.

Step 7: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod with an open-end wrench set (metric) so it doesn’t twist.
• Tighten the jam nut against the new tie rod end using an open-end wrench set (metric): Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall the wheel and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 With the car on the ground, turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly and confirm there’s no binding or noises.
• 🔍 Visually re-check the cotter pin is fully installed and bent over.
• 🛞 Road test at low speed first, then normal speed. Stop and re-check for any looseness.
• 📐 Get a front-end alignment as soon as possible (recommended immediately).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $185-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.