🔧 Malibu - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle, and it’s a common wear item that can cause clunking, loose steering, or uneven tire wear. The key is to keep the new part adjusted close to the old one, then get a professional alignment right after.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Malibu with jack stands on solid ground—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep the steering wheel centered and don’t let it spin freely while the tie rod is disconnected.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses; rust and dirt fall straight down during this job.
• ⚠️ If you use a hammer near the knuckle, aim carefully to avoid damaging the brake dust shield or ABS wiring.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug nut socket 19mm
• Ratchet 3/8"
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 20–200 Nm
• Open-end wrench set (16mm, 18mm, 21mm)
• Adjustable wrench 10"
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Penetrating oil
• Wire brush
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• New cotter pin - Qty: 1
• Thread locker (medium strength) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, straighten the front wheels, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly using a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Spray penetrating oil on the outer tie rod end jam nut and the stud nut. Let it soak for 5–10 minutes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Lift the front corner with a floor jack and support it with jack stands.
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Mark your current toe setting (so you can drive to alignment)

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut on the inner tie rod threads.
• Measure from a fixed point (like the end of the inner tie rod) to the center of the tie rod end stud using a tape measure. Write it down.
• This helps keep steering close until alignment.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench 10".
• Loosen the jam nut using the correctly sized open-end wrench (commonly 18mm or 21mm depending on parts).
• Turn the jam nut back about 1–2 turns, but do not move the inner tie rod itself.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and stud nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.
• Remove the tie rod end stud nut from the steering knuckle using the correctly sized open-end wrench (commonly 18mm or 21mm).

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Install the tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud pops free from the knuckle.
• If it’s stuck, apply more penetrating oil and try again.
• Don’t hit the stud threads.

Step 6: Remove the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod

• Spin the old tie rod end off by hand, counting the exact number of turns as you remove it.
• Write the turn count down (example: 17.5 turns).

Step 7: Install the new outer tie rod end

• Compare the new part to the old one (length and taper should match).
• Thread the new tie rod end on the inner tie rod the exact same number of turns you counted.
• Line up your paint mark and/or measurement from Step 2 as closely as possible.

Step 8: Attach the stud to the steering knuckle

• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the new nut and tighten using the correct open-end wrench, then finish with a torque wrench.
• Torque the outer tie rod end stud nut to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs) + 90°.
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers. If the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up, tighten the nut slightly—do not loosen it to align.

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench 10".
• Tighten the jam nut using the correct open-end wrench.
• Torque the tie rod jam nut to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and lower the car

• Install the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts using a 19mm lug nut socket.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly to confirm nothing binds or clicks.
• Test drive at low speed first, then recheck that the jam nut is tight and the cotter pin is installed.
• Get a front-end alignment ASAP (tie rod work changes toe and can destroy tires quickly).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor + basic alignment varies)

DIY Cost: $25-$90 (parts only)

You Save: $90-$260 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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