🔧 Forester - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack (via the inner tie rod) to the steering knuckle. Replacing it restores tight steering and helps prevent uneven tire wear, but you’ll still need an alignment after.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Forester with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses and gloves; rust and debris can fall when loosening parts.
• 🧭 Plan on a professional alignment after replacement; counting turns is only to get you close.
• 🔩 Do not reuse the old cotter pin; always install a new one.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• 19mm socket
• 19mm wrench
• 17mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, center the steering wheel, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and the stud nut at the knuckle; wait 5–10 minutes.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut on the threads to help preserve toe.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to slightly loosen the lug nuts.
• Lift the front corner with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Measure and mark for a close-to-original alignment

• Use a tape measure and measure from the center of the tie rod end stud to a fixed point on the inner tie rod/jam nut area; write it down.
• Refresh your alignment marks using a paint marker on the jam nut and threads.
• This helps you drive to the alignment shop.

Step 3: Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten the cotter pin legs.
• Use side cutters or needle-nose pliers to pull the cotter pin out.

Step 4: Loosen and remove the stud nut at the steering knuckle

• Use a 17mm socket (or 17mm wrench, depending on nut style) to remove the nut from the tie rod end stud.
• If the stud spins, apply upward pressure to the tie rod end while turning the nut using a 17mm wrench.

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud pops free.
• A puller protects the rubber boot.

Step 6: Break the jam nut loose

• Clean exposed threads with a wire brush, then apply penetrating oil.
• Hold the inner tie rod with a 19mm wrench (where flats are provided) and loosen the jam nut using a 19mm wrench.
• Back the jam nut off a few turns, but don’t move it far from your paint mark.

Step 7: Remove the old tie rod end while counting turns

• Rotate the tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand, counting full turns (example: 17.5 turns). Write the number down.
• Stop when it comes off completely.

Step 8: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads (avoid the stud and boot).
• Thread the new tie rod end on by hand the exact same number of turns you counted using your hands (no tools yet).
• Line up your paint marks as closely as possible.

Step 9: Attach the tie rod end to the steering knuckle

• Insert the stud into the knuckle.
• Install the nut and tighten using a 17mm socket.
• Torque to 37 Nm (27 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range).
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers; bend the legs over securely.

Step 10: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end so it doesn’t rotate, using a 19mm wrench.
• Tighten the jam nut using a 19mm wrench.
• Torque to 69 Nm (51 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range).

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked; listen for clunks and confirm the boot isn’t twisted.
• Test drive slowly and confirm the steering wheel is close to centered; avoid highway speeds if it pulls hard.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear.
• Recheck the jam nut area for movement after the first short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor + alignment varies)

DIY Cost: $30-$90 (parts only)

You Save: $160-$420 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.