🔧 Escape - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle at the wheel. Replacing it restores tight steering and prevents uneven tire wear, but you’ll still need an alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the Escape with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛑 Chock the rear wheels and keep the transmission in Park.
• 🛑 Keep fingers clear when separating the joint; it can “pop” loose suddenly.
• 🛑 Don’t turn the steering wheel with parts disconnected; it can stress the steering gear.
• 🛑 If using a pickle fork, expect the old boot to be destroyed.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs)
• 18mm socket
• 21mm open-end wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Pickle fork set (specialty)
• Hammer (24 oz)
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Penetrating oil
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Outer tie rod end nut (new) - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin - Qty: 1 (if equipped)
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering wheel straight, and remove the key.
• Chock both rear wheels and loosen the front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and the tie rod end stud nut.
• Plan on a professional alignment after the repair (this part directly affects toe).

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Lift the front corner you’re working on using a floor jack at the proper jacking point.
• Set the Escape onto jack stands and give it a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the wheel using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Mark the current alignment position

• Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod threads at the jam nut.
• Measure the exposed thread length with a tape measure, and write it down.
• This helps keep toe close for the drive to alignment.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with a 21mm open-end wrench on the flats (if present).
• Loosen the jam nut (the “lock nut” behind the tie rod end) using a 21mm open-end wrench by turning it counterclockwise.
• Back it off 1–2 turns, but do not move it far from your paint mark.

Step 4: Remove the tie rod end nut from the steering knuckle

• Remove the nut on the tie rod end stud using an 18mm socket.
• If the Escape uses a cotter pin at this joint, straighten and remove it first using needle-nose pliers.

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) over the joint and tighten it until the stud pops free.
• If you don’t have a puller, use a pickle fork set (specialty) and hammer to separate it (this typically ruins the boot).
• Once loose, push the stud out of the knuckle by hand.

Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end

• Spin the tie rod end off the inner tie rod by hand, counting the turns as you remove it.
• Write the turn count down (example: 17.5 turns).

Step 7: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads (avoid the stud/boot area).
• Thread the new tie rod end on by the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Line up the stud with the steering knuckle hole and insert it fully.

Step 8: Torque the tie rod end nut and tighten the jam nut

• Install the new stud nut and tighten using an 18mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs).
• If equipped with a cotter pin, tighten only as needed to align the castellations, then install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.
• Hold the tie rod end flats with a 21mm open-end wrench, then tighten the jam nut using a 21mm open-end wrench: Torque to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel

• Install the wheel and snug the lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the Escape off the jack stands using a floor jack.
• Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the Escape and slowly turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked to confirm nothing binds or clunks.
• Test drive at low speed first; confirm the steering wheel is close to centered.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best) to prevent tire wear.
• Recheck the jam nut area for any looseness after the first drive.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only, alignment extra)

You Save: $100-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.