How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2013-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and alignment notes after installation
How to Replace the Outer Tie Rod End on a 2013-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and alignment notes after installation for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Santa Fe - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement
The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the front wheel knuckle. Replacing it restores safe steering and helps prevent uneven tire wear, but you must get a wheel alignment after the job.
Assumption: You’re replacing the outer tie rod end (at the wheel/knuckle).
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (per side)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support the Santa Fe with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
- 🛑 Keep hands clear of pinch points while separating the tie rod end from the knuckle.
- 🛑 If you remove a cotter pin, always install a new cotter pin (never reuse).
- 🛑 No battery disconnect is required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug wrench (21mm)
- Socket set (10mm-24mm)
- Ratchet (3/8 in drive)
- Breaker bar (1/2 in drive)
- Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
- Combination wrench set (10mm-24mm)
- Adjustable wrench (10 in)
- Pliers
- Side cutters
- Pick tool
- Ball joint separator or tie rod end puller (specialty)
- Hammer (16 oz)
- Paint marker
- Tape measure
- Penetrating oil
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
- Cotter pin (new) - Qty: 1
- Jam nut (if not reusable / if supplied) - Qty: 1
- Chassis grease (if tie rod end has grease fitting) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🧰 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 🧰 Slightly loosen the front wheel lug nuts with a 21mm lug wrench before lifting.
- 🧰 Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and the tie rod end-to-knuckle nut. Let it soak 5–10 minutes.
- 🧰 Plan for a professional alignment after replacement. Driving unaligned can ruin tires fast.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front corner you’re working on at the proper jacking point.
- Set the Santa Fe onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm lug wrench and remove the wheel.
Step 2: Mark your current tie rod length (helps keep alignment close)
- Use a paint marker to mark the position of the outer tie rod end and the jam nut on the threaded inner tie rod.
- Use a tape measure to measure from a fixed point (example: the center of the tie rod end stud) to the jam nut. Write it down.
- Also count how many turns it takes to remove the outer tie rod end later. This is your best “close enough” baseline.
Step 3: Loosen the jam nut
- Hold the inner tie rod area steady with a adjustable wrench (10 in) or combination wrench set (10mm-24mm).
- Use a combination wrench set (10mm-24mm) to break the jam nut loose (do not remove it yet).
- A “jam nut” is the lock nut that clamps the outer tie rod end’s position on the threads.
Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and loosen the castle nut
- Use pliers and/or side cutters to straighten and remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud.
- Use a pick tool if the cotter pin is stuck.
- Use the correct size from your socket set (10mm-24mm) with a ratchet (3/8 in drive) to loosen and remove the castle nut.
Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
- Install a ball joint separator or tie rod end puller (specialty) on the joint and tighten it until the stud pops free.
- A tie rod end puller is a small press tool that pushes the stud out without damaging threads.
- If needed, tap the side of the knuckle (not the stud threads) using a hammer (16 oz) to help it release.
Step 6: Remove the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod
- Spin the outer tie rod end off by hand, counting the turns as you go.
- Write down the exact turn count so you can install the new one to the same position.
Step 7: Install the new outer tie rod end
- Thread the new outer tie rod end on the inner tie rod the same number of turns you counted during removal.
- Line up your paint marks and/or measurement from earlier using the tape measure.
- Insert the tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle.
- Install the castle nut by hand, then tighten using the correct socket from the socket set (10mm-24mm) and a ratchet (3/8 in drive).
- Torque to factory specification (refer to Hyundai service information for your Santa Fe) using a torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range).
- If the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up after torquing, tighten the nut slightly to align—do not loosen to align.
- Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends using pliers.
Step 8: Tighten the jam nut
- Hold the outer tie rod end with a adjustable wrench (10 in).
- Tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end using a combination wrench set (10mm-24mm).
- Torque to factory specification (refer to Hyundai service information for your Santa Fe) using a torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range) if you can fit it.
Step 9: Grease the joint (only if equipped with a grease fitting)
- If the new tie rod end has a grease fitting, apply chassis grease until the boot just starts to swell.
- Don’t overfill—boots can pop.
Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall the wheel and hand-start the lug nuts.
- Lower the Santa Fe using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range).
- Torque to factory specification (refer to Hyundai service information for your Santa Fe).
✅ After Repair
- 🧪 Start the Santa Fe and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm smooth movement and no popping noises.
- 🧪 Do a short, slow test drive and confirm the steering wheel is close to centered and there’s no pull.
- 🧪 Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible. This is required after tie rod work.
- 🧪 Recheck the jam nut area for movement after the test drive.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor + alignment)
DIY Cost: $30-$120 (parts only, alignment not included)
You Save: $120-$430 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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