🔧 Civic - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle and lets the front wheels turn. Replacing it restores tight steering and eliminates clunks, looseness, and uneven tire wear caused by a worn ball joint.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support your Civic with jack stands before working underneath.
• 🛑 Chock the rear wheels and keep the parking brake on.
• 🛑 Do not hammer directly on the steering knuckle threads.
• 🛑 Plan on getting a wheel alignment after replacement.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs)
• 17mm socket
• 19mm open-end wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Diagonal cutters
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Hammer (16 oz)
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering wheel straight, parking brake engaged, rear wheels chocked.
• Break the front wheel lug nuts loose before lifting the car.
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and the ball stud nut.
• Tip: Count turns to keep alignment close.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the wheel lug nuts

• Use a 19mm socket with a breaker bar (1/2") to loosen (do not remove) the front lug nuts.

Step 2: Lift and support the front corner

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift at the front jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Keep wheel chocks on the rear wheels.

Step 3: Remove the front wheel

• Use a 19mm socket to remove lug nuts and take off the wheel.

Step 4: Mark and measure for a “close” alignment

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the jam nut relative to the threaded tie rod.
• Use a tape measure to note the distance from the jam nut to the end of the threads (write it down).
• Tip: This helps you drive to alignment.

Step 5: Remove the cotter pin

• Use needle-nose pliers to straighten the cotter pin legs.
• Use diagonal cutters if needed to cut the pin and pull it out.

Step 6: Remove the tie rod end nut from the steering knuckle

• Use a 17mm socket to remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.
• If the stud spins, apply upward pressure on the tie rod end while loosening.

Step 7: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud pops free.
• If needed, strike the side of the knuckle boss with a hammer (16 oz) (do not hit the stud threads).
• Tie rod puller prevents boot and thread damage.

Step 8: Loosen the jam nut

• Use a 19mm open-end wrench to loosen the jam nut (counter-hold the tie rod end if needed).
• Back the jam nut away a few turns, but do not move it far from your mark.

Step 9: Unscrew and count turns

• Unscrew the old tie rod end by hand and count the exact number of turns it takes to come off.
• Write the number down (example: 17.5 turns).

Step 10: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the threads (avoid the ball joint boot).
• Screw the new tie rod end on using the same number of turns you counted.
• Line up your paint marker reference so the toe setting stays close.

Step 11: Attach tie rod end to the knuckle and torque

• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
• Thread the castle nut on by hand, then use a 17mm socket to tighten.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs), then tighten further only as needed to align the cotter pin hole (never loosen to align).
• Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs using needle-nose pliers.

Step 12: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut using a 19mm open-end wrench.
• Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-start the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Use a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) with a 19mm socket to tighten in a star pattern.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock while parked and confirm nothing binds or rubs.
• Test drive at low speed first; confirm steering wheel is near-center and no clunks.
• Get a professional alignment as soon as possible to prevent tire wear.
• Recheck the jam nut area for movement after the first short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $200-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $25-$80 (parts only)

You Save: $120-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.