🔧 Impala - Tie Rod End Replacement

The tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle, and it’s a common wear item that can cause loose steering, clunking, or uneven tire wear. Replacing it is straightforward, but you must keep the alignment close and get a professional alignment afterward.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (per side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Impala with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when separating the tie rod end—parts can pop loose suddenly.
• ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on steering threads; you can damage the rack/tie rod.
• ⚠️ After replacement, drive gently to an alignment shop; incorrect toe can ruin tires quickly.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs)
• 18mm socket
• 24mm open-end wrench
• Needle-nose pliers
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🛞 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the car.
• 📏 Plan to “match” the old length: count turns and/or measure so the new tie rod end goes on close to the same position.
• 🧴 Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end jam nut and the stud nut threads 10 minutes before starting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a 19mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen lug nuts 1/2 turn.
• Lift the front corner using a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and 3/8" ratchet, then remove the wheel.

Step 2: Mark and measure the current position

• Use a wire brush to clean the threads at the jam nut area.
• Use a paint marker to mark the tie rod end and the threaded rod.
• Use a tape measure to record a reference length (for example, from the center of the tie-rod stud to a fixed point on the inner tie rod).
• These marks help keep alignment close.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with a 24mm open-end wrench and break the jam nut loose (turn the jam nut counterclockwise to loosen).
• Apply penetrating oil if it’s stubborn, then try again with the 24mm open-end wrench.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and stud nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers.
• Remove the tie rod end stud nut using an 18mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) over the joint and tighten it until the stud pops free.
• A puller avoids damaging the boot.

Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end (count turns)

• Spin the outer tie rod end off by hand, counting the exact number of turns it takes to remove.
• Write the number down; you’ll use the same number of turns to install the new one.

Step 7: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the threads.
• Thread the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted during removal.
• Line up your paint marker marks and compare your tape measure reference to get it as close as possible.

Step 8: Attach to the steering knuckle and torque the stud nut

• Insert the stud into the steering knuckle.
• Install the stud nut by hand, then tighten using an 18mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs), then continue tightening just enough to align the castellations with the cotter pin hole.
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over securely.

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with a 24mm open-end wrench.
• Tighten the jam nut using a 24mm open-end wrench.
• Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheel and lower the car

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 140 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧭 Get a professional 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (toe will be affected).
• 🚗 On your first test drive, start slow and listen for clunks; steering should feel smooth and centered.
• 🔍 Recheck the jam nut area visually for any looseness after 20-50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor, not including alignment)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$350 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.