🔧 Lancer - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle at the wheel. Replacing it restores tight steering and fixes looseness, clunking, or uneven tire wear caused by a worn joint.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear when separating the joint; parts can pop loose suddenly.
• 🛑 Do not turn the steering wheel with the tie rod disconnected.
• 🛑 Get a professional alignment after replacement to prevent rapid tire wear.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Ratchet 1/2" drive
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 22mm wrench
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure (metric or inch)
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
• Jam nut (if not included with tie rod end) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, straighten the steering wheel, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🧼 Spray penetrating oil on the jam nut threads and the tie-rod-to-knuckle nut; let it soak 5–10 minutes.
• 🖊️ Mark the jam nut position on the inner tie rod with a paint marker.
• 📏 Measure from a fixed point (end of inner tie rod threads) to the center of the tie rod end stud and write it down; this helps keep toe close for the drive to alignment.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the wheel lug nuts

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" to crack the lug nuts loose about 1/2 turn while the tire is still on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and support the front corner

• Lift with a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the approved front jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under a solid support point and lower the car onto them.
• Use wheel chocks at the rear wheels.

Step 3: Remove the wheel

• Use a 19mm socket and ratchet 1/2" drive to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and set it aside.

Step 4: Loosen the jam nut (lock nut)

• Use a wire brush to clean exposed threads near the jam nut.
• Hold the inner tie rod with a 22mm wrench (size may vary by brand) and loosen the jam nut using a 22mm wrench.
• Only loosen it; don’t move it far.

Step 5: Remove the cotter pin

• Straighten and pull the cotter pin with needle-nose pliers.
• If it breaks or is stuck, cut it with side cutters and remove the pieces.
• Always install a new cotter pin.

Step 6: Remove the tie rod end nut from the steering knuckle

• Use a 17mm wrench or 19mm wrench (varies by hardware) to remove the nut.
• If the stud spins, apply upward pressure on the tie rod end while turning the nut with the wrench.

Step 7: Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) and tighten it until the stud pops free. A tie rod end puller is a clamp tool that presses the stud out without hammering.
• If needed, re-apply penetrating oil and try again.

Step 8: Count turns and remove the old tie rod end

• Use a paint marker to add a reference mark on the threads.
• Spin the tie rod end off while counting full turns (example: 16.5 turns). Write the number down.

Step 9: Install the new tie rod end (same length)

• Thread the new tie rod end on the inner tie rod the exact same number of turns you counted.
• Line up the stud with the steering knuckle hole and insert it fully.

Step 10: Tighten the tie rod end nut and install the cotter pin

• Install and tighten the nut using a 17mm wrench or 19mm wrench.
• Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
• If the cotter pin hole doesn’t line up, tighten the nut slightly to the next slot—do not loosen to align.
• Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs with needle-nose pliers.
• Never reuse an old cotter pin.

Step 11: Set and tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end and snug the jam nut against it using a 22mm wrench.
• Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reinstall the wheel and lower the car

• Install the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Use a torque wrench 1/2" drive (20-150 ft-lbs range) with a 19mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧭 Drive slowly at first and confirm the steering wheel is close to centered and the car doesn’t pull hard.
• 🔍 Recheck that the cotter pin is fully installed and the jam nut is tight.
• 🛞 Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible (same day is best).
• 👂 If you hear clunks or feel looseness, stop and recheck your work.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$380 (parts + labor + basic alignment check; full alignment may add more)

DIY Cost: $25-$85 (parts only)

You Save: $155-$295 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Assumption: torque values listed are common for your Lancer; verify with the instructions included with your replacement part if they differ.