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2018 Dodge Charger
2018 Dodge Charger
Daytona - V8 5.7L
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DODGE CHALLENGER MAP SENSOR REPLACEMENT REMOVAL LOCATION

DODGE CHALLENGER MAP SENSOR REPLACEMENT REMOVAL LOCATION

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10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
6"
6"
Extension
T25
T25
Torx Star
Flathead
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How to Replace the MAP Sensor (MAF Mix-Up) on a 2018 Dodge Charger 5.7L HEMI

Step-by-step instructions to locate MAP vs IAT, required tools/parts, and 44 in-lb (5 Nm) torque spec

How to Replace the MAP Sensor (MAF Mix-Up) on a 2018 Dodge Charger 5.7L HEMI

Step-by-step instructions to locate MAP vs IAT, required tools/parts, and 44 in-lb (5 Nm) torque spec

Orion
Orion

đź”§ Charger - Air Metering Sensor Replacement (MAF vs MAP)

Your Charger’s 5.7L HEMI does not use a traditional MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow) in the intake tube like many other cars. From the factory it uses a MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) on the intake manifold (and an IAT sensor for air temp).

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.3-0.8 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🧤 Work on a cool engine; the intake area gets hot.
  • 🔌 Turn ignition fully OFF and keep the key/fob away from the car while unplugging sensors.
  • ⚡ If you disconnect the battery, use a 10mm socket and remove the negative cable first.
  • 🛑 Don’t pull on wires; press the connector lock and pull on the plug body.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 6" extension (1/4" drive)
  • Torx T25 bit socket
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Flashlight
  • Inch-pound torque wrench (20–200 in-lb)
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • OBD2 scan tool

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • MAP sensor - Qty: 1
  • MAP sensor O-ring (if not included) - Qty: 1
  • IAT sensor (intake air temperature) (only if replacing IAT instead of MAP) - Qty: 1

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Open the hood and use a flashlight to locate the sensor before removing anything.
  • If you’re not sure which one you mean: the MAP sensor sits on the intake manifold; the IAT sensor is usually on/near the air inlet tube.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Identify which “air sensor” you’re replacing

  • Use a flashlight to look for a small sensor on the intake manifold held by Torx screws (that’s typically the MAP sensor).
  • If you instead see a sensor pushed into the intake tube/air duct with a clip or twist-lock, that’s typically the IAT sensor.
  • Tip: MAP is on the manifold, not the air box.

Step 2: Power down (recommended)

  • Make sure the ignition is OFF.
  • Optional but beginner-friendly: disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.

Step 3A: Replace the MAP sensor (most common “MAF” mix-up)

  • Locate the MAP sensor on the intake manifold.
  • Release the electrical connector:
    • Use a small flathead screwdriver only if needed to gently lift the lock tab, then pull the connector straight off.
  • Remove the MAP mounting screw(s) using a Torx T25 bit socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 6" extension.
  • Pull the sensor straight out. If it feels stuck, wiggle gently—don’t pry hard on plastic.
  • Check the O-ring on the sensor:
    • If the new sensor doesn’t come with one, install a new MAP sensor O-ring.
  • Install the new MAP sensor straight in, then start the screw by hand.
  • Tighten with an inch-pound torque wrench: Torque to 44 in-lb (5 Nm).
  • Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 3B: Replace the IAT sensor (if that’s the one you meant)

  • Locate the IAT sensor in/near the intake tube.
  • Unplug the connector by pressing the tab and pulling straight back (use nitrile gloves for grip).
  • Remove the sensor:
    • If it’s twist-lock: rotate it by hand and pull out.
    • If it’s retained by a small screw: remove it using a Torx T25 bit socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
  • Install the new IAT sensor fully seated, then reconnect the plug until it clicks.

Step 4: Restore power and clear codes (if needed)

  • If disconnected, reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Plug in an OBD2 scan tool and clear any stored sensor codes.

âś… After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes. It should idle smooth.
  • Use an OBD2 scan tool to confirm no codes return and check live data for MAP/IAT readings.
  • Take a 10-minute test drive and re-check for a check engine light.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $140-$230 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.


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