How to Replace the MAP Sensor (MAF Mix-Up) on a 2018 Dodge Charger 5.7L HEMI
Step-by-step instructions to locate MAP vs IAT, required tools/parts, and 44 in-lb (5 Nm) torque spec
How to Replace the MAP Sensor (MAF Mix-Up) on a 2018 Dodge Charger 5.7L HEMI
Step-by-step instructions to locate MAP vs IAT, required tools/parts, and 44 in-lb (5 Nm) torque spec
đź”§ Charger - Air Metering Sensor Replacement (MAF vs MAP)
Your Charger’s 5.7L HEMI does not use a traditional MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow) in the intake tube like many other cars. From the factory it uses a MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure) on the intake manifold (and an IAT sensor for air temp).
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.3-0.8 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🧤 Work on a cool engine; the intake area gets hot.
- 🔌 Turn ignition fully OFF and keep the key/fob away from the car while unplugging sensors.
- ⚡ If you disconnect the battery, use a 10mm socket and remove the negative cable first.
- 🛑 Don’t pull on wires; press the connector lock and pull on the plug body.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- Torx T25 bit socket
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Flashlight
- Inch-pound torque wrench (20–200 in-lb)
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- OBD2 scan tool
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- MAP sensor - Qty: 1
- MAP sensor O-ring (if not included) - Qty: 1
- IAT sensor (intake air temperature) (only if replacing IAT instead of MAP) - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and use a flashlight to locate the sensor before removing anything.
- If you’re not sure which one you mean: the MAP sensor sits on the intake manifold; the IAT sensor is usually on/near the air inlet tube.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Identify which “air sensor” you’re replacing
- Use a flashlight to look for a small sensor on the intake manifold held by Torx screws (that’s typically the MAP sensor).
- If you instead see a sensor pushed into the intake tube/air duct with a clip or twist-lock, that’s typically the IAT sensor.
- Tip: MAP is on the manifold, not the air box.
Step 2: Power down (recommended)
- Make sure the ignition is OFF.
- Optional but beginner-friendly: disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
Step 3A: Replace the MAP sensor (most common “MAF” mix-up)
- Locate the MAP sensor on the intake manifold.
- Release the electrical connector:
- Use a small flathead screwdriver only if needed to gently lift the lock tab, then pull the connector straight off.
- Remove the MAP mounting screw(s) using a Torx T25 bit socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 6" extension.
- Pull the sensor straight out. If it feels stuck, wiggle gently—don’t pry hard on plastic.
- Check the O-ring on the sensor:
- If the new sensor doesn’t come with one, install a new MAP sensor O-ring.
- Install the new MAP sensor straight in, then start the screw by hand.
- Tighten with an inch-pound torque wrench: Torque to 44 in-lb (5 Nm).
- Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 3B: Replace the IAT sensor (if that’s the one you meant)
- Locate the IAT sensor in/near the intake tube.
- Unplug the connector by pressing the tab and pulling straight back (use nitrile gloves for grip).
- Remove the sensor:
- If it’s twist-lock: rotate it by hand and pull out.
- If it’s retained by a small screw: remove it using a Torx T25 bit socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
- Install the new IAT sensor fully seated, then reconnect the plug until it clicks.
Step 4: Restore power and clear codes (if needed)
- If disconnected, reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Plug in an OBD2 scan tool and clear any stored sensor codes.
âś… After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes. It should idle smooth.
- Use an OBD2 scan tool to confirm no codes return and check live data for MAP/IAT readings.
- Take a 10-minute test drive and re-check for a check engine light.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $140-$230 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















