🔧 Passport - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Passport, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. Replacement is done from inside the cabin (under the rear seat area), but you must relieve fuel pressure and keep everything perfectly clean to avoid fuel leaks and check-engine lights.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🔥 Work outside or in a well-ventilated area—fuel vapors are highly flammable.
• 🔥 No smoking, no heat guns, no drop lights with hot bulbs—use an LED work light.
• 🧯 Keep a class B fire extinguisher nearby.
• ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before opening any fuel line to prevent a fuel spray.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging the pump wiring.
• ⚠️ Clean the area before opening the tank—dirt in the tank can damage the new pump.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3" extension
• Phillips #2 screwdriver
• Flat trim tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Small pick tool
• Fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty)
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
• Shop towels
• Catch pan
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• LED work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) - Qty: 1
• Fuel line retaining clip(s) (if damaged) - Qty: 1-2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Passport on level ground and open the driver window (helps if the car locks itself).
• Lower the fuel level if possible (under 1/2 tank makes the module easier to handle).
• Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

• Open the under-hood fuse/relay box and remove the fuel pump fuse/relay using needle-nose pliers.
• Start the engine and let it run until it stalls, then crank for 3-5 seconds to bleed off remaining pressure.
• Turn ignition OFF and reinstall nothing yet.
• Tip: This prevents fuel spray at the line.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

• Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 3: Access the fuel pump service cover

• Remove the rear seat bottom/cushion as needed (release clips carefully) using a flat trim tool.
• Locate the fuel pump service cover and remove the cover fasteners using a Phillips #2 screwdriver or 10mm socket (varies by cover fastener type).
• Use an LED work light so there’s no hot bulb near vapors.

Step 4: Clean the area

• Wipe and clean the top of the pump module and surrounding area using shop towels.
• Do not let debris fall into the opening once the module comes out.

Step 5: Disconnect the electrical connector

• Unplug the fuel pump electrical connector. Use a small pick tool only if the lock tab is stuck.

Step 6: Disconnect the fuel line(s)

• Place a catch pan and shop towels under the connection.
• Release the quick-connect fitting (push in, then release the tab/retainer). Use needle-nose pliers carefully if a clip needs to be removed.
• Expect a small amount of fuel to drip—catch it and wipe immediately.

Step 7: Remove the lock ring

• Mark the module orientation to the tank with a reference mark using a shop towel (wipe line) or your eyes before moving anything.
• Remove the retaining lock ring using a fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty).
• Lock ring wrench = tool that turns the big ring safely.

Step 8: Remove the fuel pump module

• Carefully lift the module out of the tank opening.
• Angle it as needed to clear the float arm (fuel level sensor) without bending it.
• Let fuel drain into the catch pan.

Step 9: Replace the seal and install the new module

• Remove the old tank seal (O-ring) and install the new seal from your parts kit.
• Set the new module into the tank in the same orientation as the original.
• Install and tighten the lock ring using the fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty).
• Torque to the factory specification for the lock ring (service manual spec) using a torque wrench (3/8" drive).

Step 10: Reconnect fuel line(s) and electrical

• Reconnect the fuel line quick-connect until it clicks/locks in place.
• Lightly tug the line to confirm it’s locked.
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 11: Reinstall the service cover and rear seat

• Reinstall the access cover using a Phillips #2 screwdriver or 10mm socket.
• Reinstall the rear seat cushion and press it fully into the clips.

Step 12: Restore power and prime the system

• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay using needle-nose pliers.
• Turn ignition ON (do not start) for 5 seconds, then OFF for 5 seconds. Repeat 3 times to prime.
• Start the engine and let it idle.

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✅ After Repair

• Inspect for leaks at the fuel line connection and around the lock ring area with the engine idling.
• If a check engine light appears, scan for codes (a loose seal/line can set EVAP/fuel pressure codes).
• Road test for 10-15 minutes, then recheck for fuel smell or dampness under the service cover.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.