How to Replace the In-Tank Fuel Pump Module on a 2019 Chevrolet Colorado
Step-by-step fuel tank drop guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace the In-Tank Fuel Pump Module on a 2019 Chevrolet Colorado
Step-by-step fuel tank drop guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs


🔧 Colorado - Fuel Pump Module Replacement
On your Colorado, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module (pump + level sensor). The usual way to replace it is to safely relieve fuel pressure, lower the fuel tank, swap the module and seal, then prime the system and check for leaks.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors ignite easily.
- ⚠️ No smoking, no open flames, no hot work lights; use an LED work light.
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent sparks.
- ⚠️ Support the tank with a jack; a partially full tank is very heavy.
- ⚠️ Use jack stands; never rely only on a floor jack.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Fire extinguisher Class B
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Metric socket set (8mm-18mm)
- 15mm socket
- Ratchet
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs)
- Extensions (3" and 6")
- Flat trim tool
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (3/8" and 5/16") (specialty)
- Hose clamp pliers
- Drain pan
- Shop rags
- Brass punch
- Dead-blow hammer
- Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- In-tank fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module tank seal O-ring - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module lock ring - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
- Run the fuel level as low as you can (1/8 tank is ideal).
- Plan where you’ll set the tank down (cardboard + a clean area helps).
- Open the fuel door and loosen the gas cap to release tank vapor pressure.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve fuel system pressure
- Open the underhood fuse box and remove the fuel pump fuse/relay using a trim tool.
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls, then crank for 3 seconds to relieve remaining pressure.
- Turn the key OFF and reinstall the fuse/relay.
- Expect a little fuel; keep rags ready.
Step 2: Raise and support the truck
- Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at a safe rear lift point.
- Set the frame on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently lower onto the stands.
Step 3: Support the fuel tank
- Place the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the center of the tank with a flat piece of wood (to spread the load).
Step 4: Disconnect the filler neck and vent hoses
- At the tank-side connections, loosen clamps using hose clamp pliers (or the appropriate metric socket if worm-gear clamps are fitted).
- Twist and pull the filler hose and vent hose off carefully; catch any drips with a drain pan.
Step 5: Disconnect EVAP and electrical connectors
- Unplug the fuel pump module electrical connector using a flat trim tool to release the lock tab.
- Disconnect EVAP quick-connect lines by releasing the plastic retainers using a trim tool.
- Push in first, then release, then pull off.
Step 6: Disconnect the fuel feed line
- Place shop rags under the connection to catch fuel.
- Use the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (3/8" and 5/16") (specialty) to release the fuel line from the module.
- Cap/cover the line end with a clean rag to keep dirt out.
Step 7: Remove any tank shield (if equipped)
- Remove shield fasteners using a metric socket set (8mm-18mm) and ratchet.
Step 8: Remove tank straps and lower the tank
- Remove the tank strap bolts using a 15mm socket and ratchet while keeping slight upward pressure with the floor jack.
- Slowly lower the tank a few inches, then pause and re-check that all hoses/lines/wiring are free.
- Lower the tank fully and slide it out enough to access the pump module on top.
- On reassembly: Torque tank strap bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Clean the area around the pump module
- Wipe the top of the tank and module area using shop rags to prevent dirt from falling into the tank.
Step 10: Remove the lock ring
- Use a fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) to rotate the lock ring counterclockwise and remove it.
- If needed, use a brass punch and dead-blow hammer to gently tap the ring (brass helps reduce spark risk).
Step 11: Remove the fuel pump module
- Lift the module straight up, angling as needed to clear the float arm.
- Let fuel drain from the module into a drain pan.
- Remove and discard the old seal O-ring using a trim tool.
Step 12: Install the new seal and module
- Install the new tank seal O-ring into the tank groove by hand.
- Lower the new module in carefully, keeping the float arm from bending.
- Install the new lock ring and tighten using the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) until it fully seats against the stops and alignment marks match.
Step 13: Reinstall the tank
- Raise the tank with the floor jack.
- Reconnect the fuel line using the same quick-connect fitting; pull back gently to confirm it’s locked.
- Reconnect EVAP lines and the electrical connector (listen/feel for a “click”).
- Reconnect filler and vent hoses and secure clamps using hose clamp pliers.
- Install straps and bolts using a 15mm socket; Torque tank strap bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall any tank shield using a metric socket set and ratchet.
Step 14: Lower the truck
- Raise slightly with the floor jack, remove jack stands, then lower to the ground.
✅ After Repair
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Prime the fuel system: key ON for 2 seconds, key OFF for 10 seconds; repeat 3-5 times.
- Start the engine and let it idle while you inspect for leaks at the tank, fuel line, and filler connections.
- If you had a check engine light, scan and clear codes after verifying there are no leaks.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)
You Save: $200-$1,000 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















