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2018 Honda Ridgeline
2018 Honda Ridgeline
Sport - V6 3.5L
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Honda Ridgeline Fuel Pump Replace

Honda Ridgeline Fuel Pump Replace

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
3"
3"
Extension
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How to Replace the In-Tank Fuel Pump Module on a 2018 Honda Ridgeline

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and fuel system priming checks

How to Replace the In-Tank Fuel Pump Module on a 2018 Honda Ridgeline

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and fuel system priming checks

Orion
Orion

🔧 Ridgeline - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Ridgeline, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module (usually serviced as an assembly). The job is mainly about working safely around gasoline fumes, relieving fuel pressure, and removing the pump module through the service access under the rear seat.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work outdoors or in a very well-ventilated area; gasoline fumes are explosive.
  • ⚠️ No smoking, sparks, heat guns, or drop lights with hot bulbs near the truck.
  • ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher within reach.
  • ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line to avoid spray.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the tank/pump area.
  • ⚠️ Clean dirt from the area first; dirt in the tank can damage the new pump.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Class B fire extinguisher
  • 10mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive extension set
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Plastic trim removal tool set
  • Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set
  • Pliers
  • Small flat-blade screwdriver
  • Shop towels
  • Catch pan
  • Non-sparking plastic scraper
  • Handheld vacuum
  • Fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty)
  • Torque wrench (3/8" drive)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump module tank seal O-ring - Qty: 1
  • Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: 1 set
  • Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Ridgeline on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
  • Try to do this job with the fuel level below 1/2 tank to reduce fumes and slosh.
  • Open the fuel door and loosen the gas cap to help vent tank pressure.
  • Plan to replace the seal O-ring any time the pump module is removed.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

  • Open the under-hood fuse/relay box.
  • Use the owner’s manual diagram to identify the fuel pump fuse/relay.
  • Remove it using pliers.
  • Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
  • Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds one more time to release any remaining pressure.
  • Turn ignition OFF.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to disconnect the negative battery cable.
  • Move the cable aside so it can’t spring back.

Step 3: Access the fuel pump service cover

  • Fold up the rear seat bottom cushions.
  • Use a plastic trim removal tool set to carefully lift any clips/trim over the access area.
  • Remove the service cover fasteners using a 10mm socket or Phillips screwdriver (varies by cover style).

Step 4: Clean the area (don’t skip this)

  • Use a handheld vacuum to remove loose dirt around the pump module top.
  • Use a non-sparking plastic scraper and shop towels to clean the sealing surface area.
  • Clean first to keep dirt out of tank.

Step 5: Disconnect the electrical connector

  • Press the connector tab and unplug it by hand.
  • If it’s stuck, use a small flat-blade screwdriver gently to release the lock tab.
  • Apply a tiny amount of dielectric grease to the seal during reassembly (not on the metal pins).

Step 6: Disconnect the fuel line(s)

  • Place a catch pan and shop towels under the line connection.
  • Use the correct size from the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set to release the line.
  • Pull the line straight off; catch any remaining fuel in the towels/pan.
  • Remove and replace any damaged retaining clips.

Step 7: Remove the lock ring and lift out the fuel pump module

  • Use a fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty) to rotate the lock ring loose.
  • Lift the lock ring off and set it aside.
  • Carefully lift the fuel pump module straight up.
  • Angle it as needed to clear the fuel level float arm without bending it.
  • Let fuel drain from the module into the tank, then move it to the catch pan.

Step 8: Replace the tank seal O-ring

  • Remove the old seal O-ring by hand.
  • Wipe the sealing surface with shop towels.
  • Install the new seal O-ring flat and evenly (no twists).

Step 9: Install the new fuel pump module

  • Lower the new module into the tank carefully, guiding the float arm in without force.
  • Align the module orientation marks with the tank marks (if present).
  • Install the lock ring and tighten it using the fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty) until it fully seats against the stops/marks.

Step 10: Reconnect fuel line(s) and electrical connector

  • Push the fuel line on until you feel/hear a solid click.
  • Gently tug the line to confirm it’s locked.
  • Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 11: Reinstall the service cover and seat

  • Reinstall the service cover using a 10mm socket or Phillips screwdriver.
  • Reinstall trim/clips using the plastic trim removal tool set as needed.
  • Return the rear seat cushion to normal position.

Step 12: Restore power and prime the fuel system

  • Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay by hand.
  • Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Turn the ignition to ON (do not start) for 5 seconds, then OFF for 5 seconds.
  • Repeat ON/OFF 3-4 times to prime the system.
  • Start the engine.

✅ After Repair

  • With the engine running, inspect the pump module top and fuel line connection for any seepage.
  • If you smell strong fuel odor, shut it off and recheck the lock ring seating and line click-in.
  • Test drive for 10-15 minutes, then recheck for leaks again.
  • If a check-engine light appears, a scan may be needed for stored fuel pressure/EVAP codes.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $350-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.


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