🔧 Camaro - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Camaro, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. Replacing it typically requires lowering the fuel tank (there is no easy service access panel), then swapping the pump module and sealing it correctly to prevent leaks and EVAP codes.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3.5-6.0 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Fuel vapors are flammable—work outside or in a well-ventilated area, away from sparks/flames.
• 🕶️ Wear eye protection—pressurized fuel can spray when lines are opened.
• 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the fuel system.
• 🧰 Support the fuel tank with a proper jack—do not balance it on a floor jack pad.
• ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Fire extinguisher (Class B)
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Socket set (8mm–18mm)
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty)
• Transmission jack (specialty)
• Brass punch and hammer
• Drain pan
• Shop rags
• Flashlight

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly (in-tank) - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module seal / O-ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel line retaining clips (if damaged) - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
• Drive the fuel level down as low as possible (a lighter tank is much safer to handle).
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using the correct socket.
• Plan to replace the module seal (O-ring). Reusing it often causes leaks.
• Tip: Take photos of hose routing first.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

• Remove the fuel pump fuse/relay (location varies by underhood fuse block label).
• Start the engine and let it run until it stalls, then crank for 3 seconds.
• Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key.
• Tip: Wrap lines with rags before opening.

Step 2: Raise and support the rear of the car

• Use a floor jack at the correct rear lift point.
• Place jack stands under the proper rear support points and lower onto them.

Step 3: Support the fuel tank

• Position a transmission jack (specialty) under the fuel tank and apply light upward support.
• A transmission jack is a wide, stable lifting jack designed to hold bulky parts like a tank.

Step 4: Disconnect EVAP and fuel lines at the tank

• Clean dirt around connections using shop rags before opening anything.
• Disconnect the EVAP vapor lines and fuel feed line using a fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty).
• Catch any fuel in a drain pan and wipe spills immediately.

Step 5: Disconnect the electrical connector(s)

• Unplug the fuel pump module electrical connector using a flathead screwdriver gently on the lock tab (do not break it).

Step 6: Lower the tank enough to access the top

• Remove any shields/guards in the way using your socket set (8mm–18mm) and ratchet.
• Remove the fuel tank strap bolts using the correct socket and ratchet.
• Slowly lower the tank with the transmission jack (specialty), stopping if any hose/wire is still attached.
• Torque to GM specification (service manual required) for tank straps and shield fasteners.

Step 7: Remove the fuel pump lock ring

• Clean the top of the tank around the pump opening using shop rags and a flashlight to verify no debris can fall in.
• Use a brass punch and hammer to rotate the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases.
• Brass is used because it is less likely to spark than steel.

Step 8: Remove the fuel pump module

• Lift the module straight up carefully; angle it as needed to clear the float arm.
• Remove and discard the old fuel pump module seal / O-ring.
• Keep the opening covered with a clean shop rag if you need to pause.

Step 9: Install the new module and seal

• Lightly lubricate the new seal with clean gasoline on a shop rag (do not use grease).
• Set the new seal in the groove and install the new module in the same orientation as removed.
• Install and lock the ring using the brass punch and hammer.
• Torque/lock ring seating must match GM specification (service manual required).

Step 10: Reinstall the fuel tank

• Raise the tank with the transmission jack (specialty).
• Reconnect electrical connector(s) by hand until the lock clicks.
• Reconnect fuel/EVAP lines by hand until you feel/hear a positive click, then tug lightly to confirm locked.
• Reinstall straps and shields using the socket set, then tighten with a torque wrench.
• Torque to GM specification (service manual required) for strap bolts and shields.

Step 11: Restore power and prime the system

• Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay by hand.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using the correct socket.
• Turn ignition ON (do not crank) for 5 seconds, OFF for 5 seconds—repeat 3 times to prime.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you check under the car for leaks.
• Recheck all quick-connect fittings by touch (dry, no fuel smell).
• If you get a check engine light (EVAP leak), recheck vapor line connections and seal seating.
• Test drive for 10–15 minutes, then recheck for seepage again.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3.5-6.0 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

---