🔧 Fuel Pump Module - Replacement

On your F-350, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. The job is mainly lowering the fuel tank safely, swapping the module and seal, then reinstalling everything without causing leaks.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Work outside (or very well ventilated); no flames/sparks/smoking.
• 🧤 Fuel is flammable and irritating; wear gloves and safety glasses.
• ⚡ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental sparks.
• 🛻 Support the truck on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🔥 Let the exhaust cool completely before starting.
• ⛽ Lower the tank with as little fuel as possible; a full tank is extremely heavy.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Fire extinguisher Class B
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Socket set (8mm–21mm)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs)
• Flat trim/panel tool
• Pick set
• Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty)
• Hose clamp pliers
• Drain pan (fuel-safe)
• Transmission jack (specialty)
• Fuel pump lock ring removal tool (specialty)
• Shop rags
• Non-sparking brass punch (specialty)
• Rubber mallet
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly (in-tank) - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module tank seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: 1 kit
• Worm gear hose clamps (assorted sizes) - Qty: 1 kit

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧭 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
• ⛽ Drive the tank as low as possible (ideally under 1/4 tank).
• 📦 Have a clear place to set the fuel tank down safely.
• 🧠 A “quick-disconnect tool” releases spring-lock fuel fittings.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel system pressure

• Open the hood and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover using a flat trim/panel tool.
• Remove the fuel pump relay using a pick set (gently pry if needed).
• Start the engine and let it run until it stalls. Crank 2–3 seconds more to bleed off remaining pressure.
• Turn the key OFF.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and ratchet.

Step 3: Raise and support the truck

• Lift the rear of the truck with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Set the frame securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).

Step 4: Support the fuel tank

• Position a transmission jack (specialty) under the fuel tank.
• Use a piece of wood (if available) between the jack and tank to spread the load.

Step 5: Disconnect the filler neck and vent hoses

• At the filler neck area, loosen hose clamps using an 8mm socket and ratchet (or use hose clamp pliers if spring clamps are present).
• Carefully twist and pull the filler and vent hoses off. Twist first—don’t just yank.
• Place a drain pan (fuel-safe) under the area and keep shop rags ready for drips.

Step 6: Disconnect electrical connectors and EVAP lines

• Unplug the fuel pump module electrical connector(s) using a flat trim/panel tool to release locking tabs if needed.
• Disconnect EVAP/vapor lines using the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty) if equipped with quick-connect style fittings.

Step 7: Disconnect fuel supply line(s)

• Clean dirt around the fuel line connection using shop rags so debris doesn’t enter the line.
• Separate the fuel line(s) using the correct size from the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty).
• Cap/cover open lines with a clean rag to keep dirt out.

Step 8: Remove tank shields/straps and lower the tank

• If equipped with a shield, remove it using a socket set (8mm–21mm) and ratchet.
• Remove the fuel tank strap bolts using a breaker bar (1/2") and appropriate socket set (8mm–21mm).
• Slowly lower the tank a few inches with the transmission jack (specialty).
• Pause and check for any remaining hoses/wires; disconnect as needed before lowering fully.
• Torque note (assumption): Tank strap bolt torque varies by configuration; if you don’t have Ford SI, torque strap bolts to a firm seat with a torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs) and recheck after a short drive for looseness.

Step 9: Remove the fuel pump module from the tank

• With the tank on the ground/jack, brush/wipe the top of the tank clean using shop rags (keep dirt out of the tank).
• Remove the lock ring using a fuel pump lock ring removal tool (specialty).
• If needed, tap the ring carefully using a non-sparking brass punch (specialty) and rubber mallet.
• Lift the module straight up. Angle it as needed to clear the float arm (fuel level sender).
• Remove and discard the old seal/O-ring using a pick set.

Step 10: Install the new module and seal

• Install the new seal/O-ring in the tank groove (do not reuse the old one).
• Lower the new fuel pump module into the tank carefully, avoiding bending the float arm.
• Install the lock ring and tighten using the fuel pump lock ring removal tool (specialty) until fully seated/locked.

Step 11: Reinstall the tank

• Raise the tank into position using the transmission jack (specialty).
• Reconnect fuel line(s) until you hear/feel a solid “click.” Gently tug to confirm locked.
• Reconnect EVAP lines and electrical connector(s) until fully seated.
• Reconnect filler neck/vent hoses and tighten clamps using an 8mm socket and ratchet (or hose clamp pliers for spring clamps).
• Reinstall tank straps and shields using the socket set (8mm–21mm), ratchet, and torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Restore power and prime the system

• Reinstall the fuel pump relay in the under-hood fuse/relay box by hand.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Cycle the key to ON (engine OFF) for 5 seconds, then OFF. Repeat 3–4 times to prime the system.

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✅ After Repair

• 🕵️ With key ON, inspect under the truck for any fuel seepage at lines, tank seal area, and filler neck.
• 🔑 Start the engine and let it idle 1–2 minutes; recheck for leaks.
• 🚗 Test drive 5–10 minutes, then recheck once more for leaks and fuel smell.
• 📟 If a check engine light appears, a loose EVAP line is common—recheck connections.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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