How to Replace the In-Tank Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 Ford F-250 Super Duty
Step-by-step tank drop instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and priming/leak checks
How to Replace the In-Tank Fuel Pump Module on a 2016 Ford F-250 Super Duty
Step-by-step tank drop instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and priming/leak checks


đź”§ F-250 Super Duty - Fuel Pump Replacement
On your F-250, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. The job is mostly about safely lowering the fuel tank, swapping the module with a new seal, then reinstalling everything without damaging fuel lines or wiring.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
Assumption: Your truck uses the in-tank pump module setup (most 6.2L).
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area—fuel vapors ignite easily.
- ⚠️ No smoking, no open flames, and keep heat guns/work lights away from fuel.
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line to prevent spray.
- ⚠️ Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack before removing the straps.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to reduce spark risk.
- ⚠️ If the tank is more than 1/4 full, it becomes much heavier—drain/siphon fuel if possible.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Fire extinguisher (Class B)
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Transmission jack (specialty)
- Socket set (8mm-21mm)
- Ratchet
- Long extensions (6" and 12")
- Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Pliers
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty)
- Brass punch (specialty)
- Small hammer
- Shop towels
- Drain pan
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly (in-tank) - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module tank seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module lock ring - Qty: 1 (recommended)
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
- Run the fuel level down as low as possible (lighter tank = safer and easier).
- Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative (-) battery terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
- Relieve fuel pressure: remove the fuel pump fuse/relay, then start the engine and let it stall; crank 2-3 more seconds. Reinstall the fuse/relay afterward.
- A quick-disconnect tool releases fuel line locks safely.
- A brass punch won’t spark like steel.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and support the truck
- Use a floor jack to lift the rear of the truck safely.
- Set the frame onto jack stands and confirm it is stable before going underneath.
Step 2: Support the fuel tank
- Position a transmission jack under the fuel tank.
- Use a piece of wood (on the jack saddle) if needed to spread the load.
Step 3: Disconnect the filler neck and vent hoses
- At the tank, loosen hose clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
- Twist and pull the hoses off gently (use pliers if needed). Expect a small amount of fuel drip.
- Plug hoses with shop towels to reduce fumes.
Step 4: Disconnect electrical connectors at the tank
- Locate the tank/pump wiring connector and unplug it by hand (use a flathead screwdriver gently if the tab is stubborn).
- Move the harness out of the way so it can’t get pinched during lowering.
Step 5: Disconnect the fuel supply/return/EVAP lines
- Place a drain pan under the connections.
- Use a fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty) to release the fuel line(s).
- Pull lines straight off—do not pry sideways (that can crack the plastic fittings).
Step 6: Remove the tank straps
- With the tank still supported by the transmission jack, remove the strap bolts using a socket set (typically 13mm-18mm) and ratchet.
- Lower the straps and keep them oriented for reinstallation.
- Torque to Ford specification on reassembly (strap bolts are safety-critical; use factory service information for your exact value).
Step 7: Lower the tank enough to access the pump module
- Slowly lower the transmission jack a few inches at a time.
- Stop and check for anything still connected (hoses, EVAP line, wiring).
- Once clear, lower enough to comfortably reach the top of the tank.
Step 8: Clean the pump module area
- Use shop towels to wipe dirt off the top of the tank around the pump opening.
- Keeping dirt out of the tank helps protect the new pump and injectors.
Step 9: Remove the lock ring and pull the module
- Use a brass punch (specialty) and small hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases.
- Lift the module out slowly—tilt as needed to clear the float arm without bending it.
- Remove the old tank seal/O-ring.
Step 10: Install the new seal and new pump module
- Install the new tank seal/O-ring into the groove (make sure it sits flat, not twisted).
- Lower the new module in, keeping the float arm free and not jammed.
- Install the lock ring and tap it clockwise using the brass punch and small hammer until fully seated at its stops.
Step 11: Raise the tank and reconnect everything
- Raise the tank using the transmission jack until you can reconnect lines.
- Reconnect fuel/EVAP lines by pushing until they click/lock (gently pull back to confirm they are latched).
- Reconnect the electrical connector(s).
- Reconnect filler neck and vent hoses; tighten clamps with a flathead screwdriver.
Step 12: Reinstall tank straps and lower the truck
- Reinstall tank straps and start bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten using a socket set and finish with a torque wrench: Torque to Ford specification.
- Remove jack stands and lower the truck using the floor jack.
âś… After Repair
- Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket (snug, do not overtighten).
- Prime the fuel system: key ON for 5 seconds, key OFF for 10 seconds; repeat 3-4 times before starting.
- Start the engine and let it idle. Check carefully for leaks at every fuel connection and around the tank seal.
- Test drive briefly, then recheck for leaks and fuel smell.
- If a check engine light appears, scan for codes (a loose EVAP line is a common cause).
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only)
You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















