🔧 Pilot - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Pilot, “fuel pump” can mean two different parts: the in-tank low-pressure fuel pump module (most common) or the engine-mounted high-pressure fuel pump (direct-injection system). The steps and safety precautions are very different, so we need to identify which one you’re replacing before you start.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Fuel vapors are flammable: no smoking, sparks, or hot lights.
• ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before opening any fuel line.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal before unplugging the pump connector.
• ⚠️ Work in a ventilated area and keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
• ⚠️ Use only a brass punch or a fuel pump lock-ring tool; steel-on-steel can spark.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Fire extinguisher (Class B)
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Trim clip remover tool
• Ratchet
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
• Phillips screwdriver
• Pick tool
• Fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty)
• Fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty)
• Brass punch
• Small dead-blow hammer
• Shop towels
• Drain pan
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• In-tank fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module seal / O-ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel line quick-connect O-rings - Qty: 1 set
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock a wheel.
• Run the fuel level down to about 1/4 tank to reduce spill risk.
• Confirm which pump you mean: in-tank fuel pump module (under an access cover) or engine high-pressure fuel pump (on the engine). If you tell me which one, I’ll tailor the steps exactly.
• Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• Relieve fuel pressure before cracking lines (steps below).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

• Open the fuel filler door and loosen the gas cap to vent the tank.
• In the under-hood fuse/relay box, remove the fuel pump fuse/relay using a fuse puller (often stored in the fuse box) or needle-nose pliers carefully.
• Start the engine and let it run until it stalls; crank 2–3 seconds more to bleed off remaining pressure.
• Turn ignition OFF and reinstall the fuse/relay after you’re done with the pump work.

Step 2: Access the fuel pump service cover

• Move the second-row seat(s) as needed to access the carpet area above the tank.
• Remove trim fasteners using a trim clip remover tool.
• Peel back the carpet and locate the metal access cover.
• Remove the access cover screws using a Phillips screwdriver or a 10mm socket (fastener type varies).

Step 3: Disconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines

• Clean the area around the pump flange using shop towels to prevent dirt from falling into the tank.
• Unplug the pump electrical connector.
• Place a drain pan and shop towels under the lines.
• Release the quick-connect(s) using a fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty) if needed; use a pick tool only to lift lock tabs gently. Don’t break the plastic lock.

Step 4: Remove the lock ring

• Mark the lock ring and tank positions with a paint marker (helps alignment).
• Use a fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty) to loosen and remove the ring.
• If you don’t have the wrench, use a brass punch and dead-blow hammer to tap the ring loose carefully.

Step 5: Remove the fuel pump module

• Lift the module straight up slowly; angle it as needed to clear the float arm (fuel level sensor).
• Let fuel drain back into the tank; catch drips with shop towels.
• Remove and discard the old seal/O-ring from the tank opening using a pick tool.

Step 6: Install the new seal and pump module

• Install the new seal/O-ring into the tank groove (do not reuse the old one).
• Apply a light film of clean fuel to the seal to prevent pinching.
• Lower the new module in carefully so the float arm is not bent.
• Align the module marks with the tank marks.

Step 7: Reinstall lock ring and reconnect lines

• Install the lock ring by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten using the fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty) until it fully seats at the alignment marks.
• Reconnect fuel line(s) until you hear/feel a click; tug lightly to confirm locked.
• Reconnect the electrical connector; add a small amount of dielectric grease to the connector seal if supplied.
• Reinstall the access cover using a Phillips screwdriver or 10mm socket and torque wrench and Torque to Honda specification.

Step 8: Reassemble interior

• Reposition carpet and reinstall trim fasteners using the trim clip remover tool (reverse of removal).
• If any seat bolts were removed, reinstall using a 12mm socket and torque wrench and Torque to Honda specification.

Step 9: Prime the system and leak-check

• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Turn ignition ON (do not start) for 5 seconds, then OFF; repeat 3 times to prime.
• Start the engine and check for leaks at the pump top and quick-connects using a flashlight.
• If you see or smell fuel, shut it off immediately and recheck the seal/line connections.

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✅ After Repair

• Test drive 5–10 minutes and recheck for any fuel smell near the access cover area.
• If a check-engine light appears, scan for codes; a loose connector or EVAP leak can trigger a warning.
• Re-tighten the gas cap until it clicks.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $800-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Quick question so I can tailor this perfectly: Are you replacing the in-tank fuel pump module under the access cover, or the engine-mounted high-pressure fuel pump?