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2018 Chevrolet Impala
2018 Chevrolet Impala
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How to change the fuel pump on a 2017 Chevrolet Impala Malibu

How to change the fuel pump on a 2017 Chevrolet Impala Malibu

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How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2018 Chevrolet Impala (In-Tank Module Guide)

Step-by-step fuel tank/access panel instructions, required tools & parts, priming steps, and leak checks

How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2018 Chevrolet Impala (In-Tank Module Guide)

Step-by-step fuel tank/access panel instructions, required tools & parts, priming steps, and leak checks

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Orion Logo White

🔧 Impala - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Impala, the fuel pump is an in-tank module that supplies high-pressure fuel to the engine. Replacement usually means removing the fuel tank (some cars have an access panel; many do not), swapping the pump module, then re-priming the system and checking for leaks.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work outside or in a well-ventilated area; fuel vapors ignite easily.
  • ⚠️ No smoking, no heat guns, no drop lights with hot bulbs; use an LED work light.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery before disconnecting fuel lines.
  • ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before opening the fuel system to avoid spray.
  • ⚠️ Support the tank with a transmission jack; a partially full tank is heavy.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Class B fire extinguisher
  • Wheel chocks
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Transmission jack (specialty)
  • Metric socket set (8mm–18mm)
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 1/2" drive ratchet
  • Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty)
  • Pliers
  • Brass drift punch set (specialty)
  • Small hammer
  • Catch pan (fuel-safe)
  • Shop rags
  • LED work light
  • OBD2 scan tool (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring) - Qty: 1
  • Fuel line retaining clips (if equipped) - Qty: 1
  • Evaporative emission hose clamps (as needed) - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Impala on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Drive until the fuel level is low (under 1/4 tank makes this much easier).
  • Relieve fuel pressure: remove the fuel pump fuse/relay, then crank the engine a few seconds until it stalls; turn key OFF.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable using a socket and move it aside so it can’t touch the terminal.
  • Confirm access method: check under the rear seat cushion/trunk floor for an access cover. If there is no access cover, you’ll be dropping the tank.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Verify whether you have an access cover

  • Check under the rear seat bottom cushion and under the trunk floor for a round/oval metal or plastic cover.
  • If you find a cover, go to Step 2A.
  • If you do not find a cover, go to Step 2B (fuel tank removal).

Step 2A: Access-cover method (if equipped)

  • Remove interior trim/clips with a trim clip removal tool and flat-blade screwdriver.
  • Remove the access cover fasteners using a metric socket and ratchet.
  • Clean dirt off the top of the module with shop rags so nothing falls in the tank.

Step 2B: Fuel tank removal method (most common)

  • Raise the rear of the car with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support it with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum); chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack (specialty). Don’t balance it on a floor jack.
  • Remove any underbody shields near the tank using a metric socket and ratchet.

Step 3: Disconnect EVAP and fuel connections

  • Place a catch pan (fuel-safe) under the connection points and keep shop rags ready.
  • Disconnect EVAP vapor lines using pliers (for clamps) or by releasing quick-connect tabs by hand.
  • Disconnect fuel feed/return lines using a fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty).
  • Unplug the fuel pump electrical connector.

Step 4: Lower and remove the tank (tank-removal method)

  • Loosen/remove the tank strap bolts using the correct metric socket and ratchet.
  • Lower the tank slowly with the transmission jack (specialty), watching for any hoses/wires still attached.
  • Slide the tank out from under the vehicle once fully free.
  • Tightening note for reassembly: use a torque wrench (10–200 Nm range) and Torque to GM service specification for tank straps and shield fasteners.

Step 5: Remove the fuel pump module from the tank

  • Clean the area around the lock ring with shop rags.
  • Remove the lock ring using a brass drift punch set (specialty) and small hammer by tapping it counterclockwise.
  • Lift the module out carefully; angle it as needed to clear the float arm without bending it.
  • Remove and discard the old seal/O-ring.

Step 6: Install the new module and seal

  • Install the new tank seal/O-ring (lightly wipe clean; do not use grease unless the seal instructions allow it).
  • Lower the new module into the tank, keeping the float arm free and not pinched.
  • Reinstall the lock ring and tighten it with the brass drift punch set (specialty) and small hammer until fully seated/locked.

Step 7: Reinstall the tank (tank-removal method)

  • Raise the tank back into position using the transmission jack (specialty).
  • Reconnect electrical connector and all EVAP/fuel quick-connect lines; pull gently to confirm they are locked.
  • Reinstall tank straps and tighten using a torque wrench (10–200 Nm range); Torque to GM service specification.
  • Reinstall underbody shields using a metric socket and ratchet; Torque to GM service specification.

Step 8: Restore power and prime the system

  • Reconnect the battery negative cable using a metric socket and ratchet; Torque to GM service specification.
  • Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay (if removed) by hand.
  • Prime fuel pressure: key ON for 5 seconds, key OFF for 10 seconds; repeat 3 times before cranking.
  • If you have an OBD2 scan tool (specialty), run the fuel pump prime output test if available.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle for 2–3 minutes.
  • Check carefully for leaks at the tank, lines, and module seal area (look and smell).
  • Road-test gently, then re-check for leaks.
  • If the check engine light comes on, scan with an OBD2 scan tool (specialty) and address any EVAP/fuel pressure codes.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.


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