How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2018 Chevrolet Impala (In-Tank Module Guide)
Step-by-step fuel tank/access panel instructions, required tools & parts, priming steps, and leak checks
How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2018 Chevrolet Impala (In-Tank Module Guide)
Step-by-step fuel tank/access panel instructions, required tools & parts, priming steps, and leak checks


🔧 Impala - Fuel Pump Replacement
On your Impala, the fuel pump is an in-tank module that supplies high-pressure fuel to the engine. Replacement usually means removing the fuel tank (some cars have an access panel; many do not), swapping the pump module, then re-priming the system and checking for leaks.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work outside or in a well-ventilated area; fuel vapors ignite easily.
- ⚠️ No smoking, no heat guns, no drop lights with hot bulbs; use an LED work light.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery before disconnecting fuel lines.
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before opening the fuel system to avoid spray.
- ⚠️ Support the tank with a transmission jack; a partially full tank is heavy.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Class B fire extinguisher
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Transmission jack (specialty)
- Metric socket set (8mm–18mm)
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive ratchet
- Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty)
- Pliers
- Brass drift punch set (specialty)
- Small hammer
- Catch pan (fuel-safe)
- Shop rags
- LED work light
- OBD2 scan tool (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring) - Qty: 1
- Fuel line retaining clips (if equipped) - Qty: 1
- Evaporative emission hose clamps (as needed) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Impala on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Drive until the fuel level is low (under 1/4 tank makes this much easier).
- Relieve fuel pressure: remove the fuel pump fuse/relay, then crank the engine a few seconds until it stalls; turn key OFF.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a socket and move it aside so it can’t touch the terminal.
- Confirm access method: check under the rear seat cushion/trunk floor for an access cover. If there is no access cover, you’ll be dropping the tank.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Verify whether you have an access cover
- Check under the rear seat bottom cushion and under the trunk floor for a round/oval metal or plastic cover.
- If you find a cover, go to Step 2A.
- If you do not find a cover, go to Step 2B (fuel tank removal).
Step 2A: Access-cover method (if equipped)
- Remove interior trim/clips with a trim clip removal tool and flat-blade screwdriver.
- Remove the access cover fasteners using a metric socket and ratchet.
- Clean dirt off the top of the module with shop rags so nothing falls in the tank.
Step 2B: Fuel tank removal method (most common)
- Raise the rear of the car with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support it with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum); chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
- Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack (specialty). Don’t balance it on a floor jack.
- Remove any underbody shields near the tank using a metric socket and ratchet.
Step 3: Disconnect EVAP and fuel connections
- Place a catch pan (fuel-safe) under the connection points and keep shop rags ready.
- Disconnect EVAP vapor lines using pliers (for clamps) or by releasing quick-connect tabs by hand.
- Disconnect fuel feed/return lines using a fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty).
- Unplug the fuel pump electrical connector.
Step 4: Lower and remove the tank (tank-removal method)
- Loosen/remove the tank strap bolts using the correct metric socket and ratchet.
- Lower the tank slowly with the transmission jack (specialty), watching for any hoses/wires still attached.
- Slide the tank out from under the vehicle once fully free.
- Tightening note for reassembly: use a torque wrench (10–200 Nm range) and Torque to GM service specification for tank straps and shield fasteners.
Step 5: Remove the fuel pump module from the tank
- Clean the area around the lock ring with shop rags.
- Remove the lock ring using a brass drift punch set (specialty) and small hammer by tapping it counterclockwise.
- Lift the module out carefully; angle it as needed to clear the float arm without bending it.
- Remove and discard the old seal/O-ring.
Step 6: Install the new module and seal
- Install the new tank seal/O-ring (lightly wipe clean; do not use grease unless the seal instructions allow it).
- Lower the new module into the tank, keeping the float arm free and not pinched.
- Reinstall the lock ring and tighten it with the brass drift punch set (specialty) and small hammer until fully seated/locked.
Step 7: Reinstall the tank (tank-removal method)
- Raise the tank back into position using the transmission jack (specialty).
- Reconnect electrical connector and all EVAP/fuel quick-connect lines; pull gently to confirm they are locked.
- Reinstall tank straps and tighten using a torque wrench (10–200 Nm range); Torque to GM service specification.
- Reinstall underbody shields using a metric socket and ratchet; Torque to GM service specification.
Step 8: Restore power and prime the system
- Reconnect the battery negative cable using a metric socket and ratchet; Torque to GM service specification.
- Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay (if removed) by hand.
- Prime fuel pressure: key ON for 5 seconds, key OFF for 10 seconds; repeat 3 times before cranking.
- If you have an OBD2 scan tool (specialty), run the fuel pump prime output test if available.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 2–3 minutes.
- Check carefully for leaks at the tank, lines, and module seal area (look and smell).
- Road-test gently, then re-check for leaks.
- If the check engine light comes on, scan with an OBD2 scan tool (specialty) and address any EVAP/fuel pressure codes.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $300-$900 (parts only)
You Save: $600-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















