🔧 Challenger - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Challenger, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. Replacing it means relieving fuel pressure, accessing the top of the tank (usually through an interior access cover), swapping the module and seal, then checking carefully for leaks.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Work outside or in a well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are extremely flammable.
• 🔌 Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the fuel system.
• 🚫 No smoking, sparks, heat guns, drop lights with hot bulbs, or grinding nearby.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves; gasoline can irritate skin/eyes.
• 🧼 Clean dirt around the pump opening before removal to keep debris out of the tank.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 6" socket extension (3/8")
• Trim removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set 5/16" and 3/8" (specialty)
• Fuel pump lock ring spanner wrench (specialty)
• Brass drift punch (non-sparking) (specialty)
• Small hammer
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10–60 ft-lb range)
• Shop towels
• Catch pan (fuel-safe)
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• In-tank fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module seal / O-ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump lock ring (if damaged/corroded) - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and open the driver window (so you don’t lock keys inside).
• ⛽ Drive until the tank is as close to empty as possible. Less fuel = less mess.
• 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• 🧯 Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel system pressure

• Open the hood.
• Remove the fuel pump relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box (use the diagram on the lid).
• Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
• Crank again for 3–5 seconds to release remaining pressure, then turn the key OFF.

Step 2: Access the fuel pump (interior access cover method)

• Inside the car, remove the rear seat bottom cushion (release the front clips using a trim removal tool, then lift out).
• Look for a round/oval service cover on the floor above the tank.
• If equipped: remove the cover fasteners using a 10mm socket and lift the cover off.
• If the cover is sealed with butyl (sticky sealer), gently pry with a trim removal tool and flat-blade screwdriver.

Step 3: If there is NO interior access cover (drop-tank method)

• Raise and support the rear of the car on jack stands, then remove any necessary underbody shields using a 10mm socket.
• Support the fuel tank from below before loosening straps.
• If you want the drop-tank steps for your exact setup, tell me whether you see a service cover under the rear seat. (One yes/no answer.)

Step 4: Clean the area around the module

• Use shop towels to wipe dirt away from the top of the module and lock ring.
• Do not blow debris into the opening.

Step 5: Disconnect the electrical connector

• Press the connector tab and unplug it by hand.
• Apply a thin film of dielectric grease during reassembly to help prevent corrosion.

Step 6: Disconnect the fuel lines

• Place a catch pan (fuel-safe) and shop towels under the fittings.
• Use the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set 5/16" and 3/8" (specialty) to release the quick-connect(s), then pull the line(s) straight off.
• Quick-connect = push on, then pull off.

Step 7: Remove the lock ring

• Preferred method: use a fuel pump lock ring spanner wrench (specialty) to turn the ring counterclockwise and remove it.
• If needed: tap the ring counterclockwise with a brass drift punch (non-sparking) (specialty) and small hammer (light taps only).

Step 8: Remove the fuel pump module

• Lift the module straight up and angle it as needed to clear the float arm (the float measures fuel level).
• Let fuel drain from the module into the tank opening before moving it over the catch pan.
• Remove the old fuel pump module seal / O-ring from the tank opening.

Step 9: Install the new seal and module

• Install the new fuel pump module seal / O-ring into the tank groove (do not reuse the old one).
• Lower the new module in carefully so the float arm doesn’t bind.
• Align the module indexing marks/tabs with the tank so it seats fully.

Step 10: Reinstall and tighten the lock ring

• Install the lock ring and tighten with the fuel pump lock ring spanner wrench (specialty).
• Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lb)

Step 11: Reconnect lines and wiring

• Push the fuel line quick-connect(s) on until they click, then pull back gently to confirm they are locked.
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 12: Reinstall the access cover and rear seat

• Reinstall the service cover and fasteners using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lb)
• Reinstall the rear seat bottom cushion and push down to snap the front clips in.

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✅ After Repair

• 🔋 Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• 🔁 Prime the system: turn key to ON (do not start) for 3 seconds, OFF for 10 seconds; repeat 3 times.
• 🧪 Start the engine and check for leaks at the module top and the fuel line connections.
• 🚗 Test drive briefly, then recheck for any fuel smell or dampness.
• 🛠️ If you have a check engine light after repair, scan for codes and address any “fuel pressure” or “evap” connection issues.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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