How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2016 Toyota Camry (In-Tank Module Guide)
Step-by-step rear-seat access instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2016 Toyota Camry (In-Tank Module Guide)
Step-by-step rear-seat access instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs


🔧 Camry - Fuel Pump Replacement
The fuel pump on your Camry is inside the fuel tank as part of an in-tank pump/module. You’ll access it from under the rear seat, disconnect the fuel lines and wiring, then swap the pump/module with a new seal so it doesn’t leak or cause low fuel pressure.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.0-4.0 hours
Assumption: Your Camry has the rear-seat service access panel (common on this model).
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are highly flammable.
- ⚠️ No smoking, no hot lights, no grinding/sparks; keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting lines to prevent fuel spray.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable before opening the tank module.
- ⚠️ Clean dirt around the pump opening; debris in the tank can damage the new pump.
- ⚠️ Use a non-ferrous tool (brass/plastic) on the lock ring if tapping; steel-on-steel can spark.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Fire extinguisher (Class B)
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 6" extension (3/8" drive)
- Trim removal tool set
- Phillips screwdriver #2
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Fuel line disconnect tool set
- Torque wrench (3/8" drive, inch-pound capable)
- Brass punch (specialty)
- Small hammer
- Shop towels
- Catch pan
- Vacuum or compressed air blow gun
- Paint marker
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- In-tank fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump/module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) - Qty: 1
- Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: 1 set
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
- Lower the fuel level if possible; a near-empty tank reduces spill risk.
- Relieve fuel pressure:
- Open the hood and remove the under-hood fuse/relay box cover.
- Remove the fuel pump relay (or EFI/fuel pump fuse if equipped).
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls; crank 2–3 seconds more.
- Turn the key off.
- Disconnect the battery:
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the negative battery cable and isolate it.
- “Lock ring” = the big ring that clamps the pump into the tank.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the rear seat bottom cushion
- Move the front seats forward for space.
- Use a trim removal tool set to release the seat cushion clips (push in at the front edge, then lift).
- Lift the seat bottom out and set it aside.
Step 2: Open the fuel pump service cover
- Locate the metal access cover on the floor under the seat.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the cover bolts.
- Torque to 5 N·m (44 in-lbs) when reinstalling.
- Use shop towels to wipe dust, then use vacuum or compressed air blow gun to clean around the pump top.
Step 3: Disconnect electrical connector and fuel lines
- Unplug the pump electrical connector by releasing the tab with a small flathead screwdriver.
- Place shop towels around the fuel line connections.
- Disconnect the quick-connect fuel line(s):
- Use fuel line disconnect tool set as needed for the connector style.
- Use needle-nose pliers to remove any retaining clips (if present).
- Expect a small amount of fuel; catch it with a catch pan.
- Pull straight—don’t twist the plastic lines.
Step 4: Mark orientation and remove the lock ring
- Use a paint marker to mark the pump module position relative to the tank (helps avoid misalignment on install).
- Remove the lock ring:
- Use a brass punch (specialty) and small hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise.
- Work slowly around the ring until it releases.
- Brass reduces spark risk vs steel tools.
Step 5: Remove the fuel pump/module assembly
- Lift the module straight up carefully.
- Angle it as needed to clear the float arm (fuel level sender).
- Let fuel drain into the tank; use shop towels to catch drips.
- Remove and discard the old tank seal (O-ring/gasket).
Step 6: Install the new seal and new pump/module
- Install the new tank seal (O-ring/gasket) into the tank opening (make sure it sits flat and isn’t twisted).
- Lower the new module into the tank, guiding the float arm in without bending it.
- Align the module using your paint marker marks.
Step 7: Reinstall lock ring and reconnect lines/wiring
- Install the lock ring and tighten it fully:
- Use the brass punch (specialty) and small hammer to tap clockwise until it seats and alignment marks match.
- Torque to 68 N·m (50 ft-lbs) if using an appropriate lock-ring adapter tool; otherwise tighten until fully seated to the factory stop marks.
- Reconnect fuel lines:
- Push the connector on until it clicks.
- Install new fuel line retaining clips if your connectors use them.
- Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 8: Reinstall the service cover and rear seat
- Reinstall the access cover using a 10mm socket.
- Torque to 5 N·m (44 in-lbs).
- Reinstall the rear seat bottom cushion by hooking the rear, then pressing down at the front until the clips snap in.
Step 9: Restore power and prime the fuel system
- Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
- Reinstall the fuel pump relay/fuse in the under-hood box.
- Prime the system:
- Turn the key to ON (engine off) for 5 seconds, then OFF.
- Repeat 3 times to build fuel pressure before starting.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 2–3 minutes.
- Check carefully for leaks at the pump top and fuel line connections (use a flashlight, not a work light that gets hot).
- Take a short test drive, then re-check for fuel smell or dampness under the rear seat area.
- If the engine cranks but won’t start, re-check the relay/fuse, electrical connector latch, and that the line clicked fully into place.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $700-$1,300 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$750 (parts only)
You Save: $450-$550 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















