🔧 Soul - Fuel Pump Replacement

The fuel pump lives inside the fuel tank (as part of a pump module) and supplies pressurized fuel to the engine. On your Soul, it’s typically accessed through a service opening under the rear seat, so you usually don’t need to drop the tank.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work in a well-ventilated area—fuel vapors are flammable.
• ⚠️ No smoking, flames, heat guns, or shop lights that can spark.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent sparks.
• ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before opening any fuel line.
• ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
• ⚠️ Clean dirt around the pump before opening the tank to avoid contamination.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 6" extension (3/8")
• Phillips screwdriver #2
• Trim removal tool set
• Needle-nose pliers
• Fuel line disconnect tool set
• Plastic scraper
• Shop towels
• Catch pan (at least 2-quart)
• Non-sparking brass punch
• Small hammer
• Fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty)
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10–80 ft-lbs range)
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
• Fuel-safe cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and remove the key.
• 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• ⛽ Aim for a low fuel level (under 1/2 tank is easier and safer).
• 🧼 Vacuum/clean the rear seat area so dirt can’t fall into the tank.
• “Lock ring” is the big retaining ring that holds the module down.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

• Open the hood and remove the fuel pump fuse/relay from the fuse box (use needle-nose pliers if needed).
• Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
• Crank for 3–5 seconds to bleed off any remaining pressure, then turn key OFF.
• Reinstall the fuse/relay after pressure is relieved.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.

Step 3: Access the fuel pump service cover

• Fold/move the rear seat as needed and remove the rear seat bottom cushion.
• Use a trim removal tool set and/or 10mm socket (fasteners vary) to release the cushion and lift it out.
• Locate the round/oval service cover in the floor above the tank.

Step 4: Remove the service cover

• Use a Phillips screwdriver #2 or 10mm socket (varies) to remove the cover fasteners.
• Carefully peel back any butyl sealer using a plastic scraper.
• Set the cover aside where it stays clean.

Step 5: Clean the area before opening the tank

• Spray fuel-safe cleaner on the top of the module area and wipe with shop towels.
• Do not let dirt fall into the opening once the module comes out.

Step 6: Disconnect the electrical connector

• Press the locking tab and unplug the pump/module connector by hand (use trim removal tool set gently if stuck).
• Apply a thin film of dielectric grease on reassembly to help prevent corrosion.

Step 7: Disconnect the fuel lines

• Place a catch pan and shop towels under the line connections.
• Release the quick-connect fittings using the fuel line disconnect tool set as needed.
• Pull lines straight off—don’t twist hard.
• Quick-connects release with the tabs fully depressed.

Step 8: Remove the lock ring / retaining ring

• Mark the current ring position with a plastic scraper (simple reference mark).
• Preferred method: use a fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty) and turn the ring counterclockwise.
• If access is tight: use a non-sparking brass punch and small hammer to tap the ring counterclockwise, working evenly around the ring.
• Remove the ring and set it aside clean.

Step 9: Remove the fuel pump module

• Lift the module slowly straight up; angle it as needed to clear the float arm (the fuel level “float” is the plastic arm that measures fuel level).
• Let fuel drain from the module into the tank for a few seconds.
• Place the module into the catch pan.

Step 10: Replace the tank seal (O-ring/gasket)

• Remove the old seal from the tank opening using a plastic scraper.
• Wipe the sealing surface clean with shop towels.
• Install the new fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) flat and fully seated (no twists).

Step 11: Install the new fuel pump module

• Carefully lower the new fuel pump module assembly into the tank, guiding the float arm to avoid bending it.
• Align the module tabs/index marks with the tank (it should sit flat).

Step 12: Reinstall and tighten the lock ring

• Install the ring by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten using the fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty) until fully seated against its stop and aligned to your reference mark.
• Assumption: Many Soul lock rings do not use a published torque; tighten firmly to full seat with the correct wrench (do not over-hammer).

Step 13: Reconnect fuel lines and electrical connector

• Push each fuel line on until it clicks and won’t pull back off by hand.
• Plug in the electrical connector until the lock clicks.
• Wipe any spilled fuel using shop towels.

Step 14: Reinstall the service cover and rear seat

• Reinstall the service cover fasteners using a Phillips screwdriver #2 or 10mm socket.
• Reinstall the rear seat cushion using the trim removal tool set and 10mm socket as applicable.

Step 15: Reconnect the battery

• Reconnect the negative terminal using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Prime the system: turn key to ON for 5 seconds, OFF for 5 seconds; repeat 3 times (don’t crank yet).
• 🔍 Check for leaks at the pump top and fuel line connections (look and smell).
• 🚗 Start the engine and let it idle 2–3 minutes; recheck for leaks.
• 🛣️ Road test 5–10 minutes, then do one final leak check.
• 🧠 If a fuel-related warning light remains on, a scan may be needed (often it clears after a few drive cycles if the repair is correct).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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