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2016 Hyundai Accent
2016 Hyundai Accent
Sport - Inline 4 1.6L
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2011-2018 Hyundai Accent Fuel Pump Replacement

2011-2018 Hyundai Accent Fuel Pump Replacement

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
3"
3"
Extension
Phillips
Phillips
Screwdriver
Trim
Trim
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How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2016 Hyundai Accent (In-Tank Module)

Step-by-step instructions with safety tips, required tools/parts, access under rear seat, and leak checks

How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2016 Hyundai Accent (In-Tank Module)

Step-by-step instructions with safety tips, required tools/parts, access under rear seat, and leak checks

Orion
Orion

🔧 Accent - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Accent, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module (pump + level sender + strainer). Replacement means relieving fuel pressure, accessing the module under the rear seat, swapping the module (or pump if you bought an insert), then checking carefully for leaks.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; gasoline fumes ignite easily.
  • ⚠️ No smoking, flames, or hot work lights (use LED only).
  • ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line to avoid a fuel spray.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the tank access cover.
  • ⚠️ Keep a class B fire extinguisher nearby and wear safety glasses and gloves.
  • ⚠️ Do not reuse a flattened pump module seal; it can cause leaks and fuel smell.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3" extension (3/8")
  • Phillips screwdriver #2
  • Flat trim tool
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Fuel line disconnect pick set
  • Brass drift punch (specialty)
  • Small hammer
  • Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
  • Shop towels
  • Drain pan
  • Marker pen
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump strainer (sock filter) - Qty: 1
  • Replacement fuel line retaining clips - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, engine off, and set the parking brake.
  • If possible, work with the fuel level below 1/2 tank; it’s safer and less messy.
  • Open the fuel door and loosen the gas cap to help vent tank pressure.
  • Assumption: Your Accent has the in-tank module access under the rear seat (common on this model).

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

  • Open the hood and use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the negative battery terminal, then remove it and set it aside.
  • Find the fuel pump fuse/relay in the under-hood fuse box (often labeled F/PUMP).
  • Use needle-nose pliers to pull the fuel pump fuse/relay.
  • Reconnect the negative battery cable temporarily using the 10mm socket, start the engine, and let it run until it stalls.
  • Crank the engine for 3 seconds to clear remaining pressure, then turn key off.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable again using the 10mm socket.
  • Tip: This step prevents a fuel spray.

Step 2: Remove the rear seat bottom

  • From the rear footwell area, use a flat trim tool to release the seat bottom clips (push the tool under the front edge and pry up gently).
  • Lift the seat bottom out of the car and set it aside.

Step 3: Access the fuel pump service cover

  • Locate the round/oval access cover in the floor under the seat.
  • Use a Phillips screwdriver #2 to remove the screws, or use a flat trim tool if it’s sealed with butyl adhesive.
  • Clean the area around the cover using shop towels so dirt can’t fall into the tank.

Step 4: Disconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines

  • Unplug the pump electrical connector by pressing the tab and pulling straight off.
  • Place a drain pan and shop towels under the fuel line connections.
  • Use a fuel line disconnect pick set to lift the plastic locking tabs (do not break them), then pull the fuel lines off the module nipples.
  • Cap/cover the open lines with a clean towel to reduce fumes and dirt entry.
  • Tip: Wiggle the line—don’t yank it.

Step 5: Mark module position and remove the lock ring

  • Use a marker pen to mark the module position relative to the tank (helps avoid float arm interference during reinstall).
  • To loosen the lock ring, place a brass drift punch (specialty) on a lock ring ear and tap with a small hammer counterclockwise.
  • Remove the lock ring and set it aside.
  • Brass drift reduces spark risk.

Step 6: Remove the fuel pump module

  • Lift the module up slowly; angle it as needed to avoid bending the fuel level float arm.
  • Let fuel drain off the module into the drain pan.
  • Remove the old tank seal (O-ring/gasket) from the opening.

Step 7: Install the new seal and module

  • Install the new tank seal into the tank opening (make sure it sits flat and is not twisted).
  • Carefully lower the new module into the tank, keeping the float arm from catching.
  • Align the module to your marker line.
  • Install the lock ring and tighten it by tapping clockwise with the brass drift punch (specialty) and small hammer until fully seated.

Step 8: Reconnect lines and connector

  • Push the fuel lines onto the correct fittings until they click/lock.
  • Gently tug-test each line to confirm it’s locked.
  • Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 9: Reinstall the access cover and rear seat

  • Reinstall the service cover using the Phillips screwdriver #2 (or press it back into its sealant if applicable).
  • Set the rear seat bottom in place and press down firmly to re-engage the clips.

Step 10: Restore power and prime the system

  • Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay using needle-nose pliers.
  • Reconnect the negative battery terminal using the 10mm socket.
  • Turn the key to ON (do not start) for 5 seconds, then OFF for 5 seconds; repeat 3 times to prime the fuel system.
  • Start the engine and let it idle.
  • Torque: Torque to factory specification (use your service manual spec if available).

✅ After Repair

  • With the engine idling, inspect the pump top and fuel line connections for any wetness or fuel smell.
  • Take a short 5-10 minute drive, then re-check for leaks again.
  • If the check engine light comes on, scan for codes (a loose line can set EVAP/fuel pressure codes).
  • Tip: Any fuel smell means stop and recheck.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3 hours.


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