How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2016 GMC Acadia (In-Tank Module)
Step-by-step tank-drop procedure with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and strap bolt torque specs
How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2016 GMC Acadia (In-Tank Module)
Step-by-step tank-drop procedure with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and strap bolt torque specs


🔧 Acadia - Fuel Pump Replacement
On your Acadia, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module that supplies pressurized fuel to the engine. Replacement usually requires lowering the fuel tank so you can remove the lock ring and lift the module out without damaging the level sender (fuel gauge float arm).
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
Assumption: This procedure assumes no factory access panel and requires lowering the tank (common on this platform).
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🧯 Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are flammable.
- 🔥 No smoking, no hot work lights, and keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
- 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental sparks.
- ⛔ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
- 🛢️ Lower the tank with fuel level as low as possible; a full tank is heavy and dangerous.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Class B fire extinguisher
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Transmission jack (specialty)
- Socket set 8mm-21mm
- Ratchet 3/8"
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 10-200 ft-lbs
- Extension set 3/8"
- Flathead screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Pliers
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set 3/8" and 1/2" (specialty)
- Fuel-safe drain pan
- Hand siphon pump (fuel-rated)
- Brass punch and hammer
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module seal O-ring - Qty: 1
- Fuel line retainer clips - Qty: 1 set
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
- Reduce fuel level as much as possible; siphon fuel using a hand siphon pump (fuel-rated) (a manual pump designed for gasoline).
- Disconnect the battery: use a socket to remove the negative battery cable and isolate it so it can’t touch the terminal.
- Relieve fuel pressure before opening lines to reduce spray.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve the fuel system pressure
- Open the hood and locate the underhood fuse/relay box.
- Remove the fuel pump fuse/relay using pliers (use the diagram on the fuse box lid).
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
- Crank for 5 seconds using the key to bleed off remaining pressure, then turn the key off.
Step 2: Raise and support the rear of the vehicle
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at the proper jacking point.
- Set the vehicle on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and verify it is stable.
Step 3: Support the fuel tank
- Position a transmission jack (specialty) under the fuel tank and lightly support it.
- Place a piece of cardboard or a shop towel pad between the jack saddle and tank to prevent scuffing.
Step 4: Remove shields (if equipped) to access the tank straps
- Remove fasteners using an 8mm-15mm socket and a 3/8" ratchet.
- Pop any plastic clips using a trim clip removal tool.
Step 5: Disconnect the fuel filler neck and vent connections
- At the filler/vent hose area, loosen hose clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
- Work hoses off carefully using pliers if needed. Twist hoses to break them loose.
Step 6: Disconnect fuel lines and electrical connector
- Locate the fuel feed/EVAP lines at the tank module area.
- Use a fuel line quick-disconnect tool set 3/8" and 1/2" (specialty) (a plastic collar tool that releases spring-lock fittings) to separate the lines.
- Catch any spill with a fuel-safe drain pan and wipe with shop towels.
- Unplug the pump module electrical connector by hand; use a flathead screwdriver only to gently lift the lock tab if needed.
Step 7: Remove the fuel tank straps and lower the tank
- Remove tank strap bolts using the appropriate 15mm-18mm socket with a breaker bar 1/2" as needed.
- Lower the tank slowly with the transmission jack (specialty), watching for any remaining hoses/wires.
- Once clear, slide the tank out enough to access the fuel pump module on top.
- Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) for fuel tank strap bolts during reassembly.
Step 8: Clean the area around the fuel pump module
- Wipe dirt from the top of the tank using shop towels.
- Keep debris out of the tank opening; even small dirt can damage the new pump.
Step 9: Remove the fuel pump lock ring
- The lock ring is a circular retaining ring that holds the module to the tank.
- Use a brass punch and hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases.
- Lift the lock ring off and set it aside.
Step 10: Remove the fuel pump module
- Carefully lift the module straight up by hand, guiding the fuel level float arm out without bending it.
- Remove the old seal using a flathead screwdriver gently if needed (do not scratch the tank sealing surface).
Step 11: Install the new seal and new fuel pump module
- Install the new fuel pump module seal O-ring into the tank groove by hand.
- Lower the new module into the tank, keeping the float arm from catching.
- Align module index marks (tabs/arrows) so the lines and connector face the correct direction.
Step 12: Reinstall and lock the retaining ring
- Install the lock ring and tap clockwise using the brass punch and hammer until fully seated against stops.
- Don’t use steel tools near fuel.
Step 13: Reinstall the fuel tank
- Raise the tank using the transmission jack (specialty).
- Reinstall straps and start bolts by hand first, then tighten using the 15mm-18mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
- Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) for fuel tank strap bolts.
- Reconnect filler/vent hoses and tighten clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
Step 14: Reconnect fuel lines and electrical
- Reconnect fuel/EVAP quick-connect lines by hand until they click.
- Install any new fuel line retainer clips using pliers if equipped.
- Plug the electrical connector back in until the lock tab clicks.
Step 15: Reinstall shields and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall shields using the 8mm-15mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
- Lower the vehicle safely using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
Step 16: Restore power and prime the system
- Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay by hand.
- Reconnect the battery negative cable using the correct socket.
- Prime: turn key to ON (engine OFF) for 5 seconds, then OFF for 5 seconds; repeat 3 times.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle 2-3 minutes while you check for leaks at the tank fittings and fuel line connections.
- Road test close to home, then re-check for fuel smell or seepage.
- If the fuel gauge reads wrong, recheck that the module is aligned and the float arm wasn’t bent.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)
You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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