🔧 Journey - Fuel Pump Replacement

The fuel pump on your Journey is part of an in-tank fuel pump module (it sits inside the fuel tank). The job is mainly about safely relieving fuel pressure, opening the access area, swapping the module with a new seal, and then priming the system so it starts normally.

Assumption: Your Journey has an interior access panel above the fuel tank under the rear seat/cargo floor; if yours does not, the fuel tank must be lowered (I include that alternate path below).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work outdoors or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are flammable.
• ⚠️ No smoking, no heaters, no drop lights with hot bulbs, and keep sparks away.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully before starting.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves; fuel can spray when lines open.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the tank/module area.
• ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Fuel-resistant nitrile gloves
• Class B fire extinguisher
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• Ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty)
• Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
• Brass punch
• Small hammer
• Shop towels
• Catch pan (fuel-safe)
• Hand siphon pump (fuel-safe) (specialty)
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Transmission jack (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module seal (tank O-ring gasket) - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and use wheel chocks at the rear tires.
• Reduce fuel level if possible; a near-empty tank is much safer and lighter.
• Relieve fuel pressure: remove the fuel pump fuse/relay from the under-hood fuse box (TIPM), then start the engine and let it run until it stalls. Crank for 3 seconds once more.
• Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative battery cable and isolate it so it can’t touch the terminal.
• Clean the area: vacuum dirt around the access cover so debris can’t fall into the tank.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Access the fuel pump area

• Fold/move the rear seating area/cargo floor as needed.
• Use a trim clip removal tool and flat-blade screwdriver to remove any trim fasteners or panels covering the access area.
• Remove the access cover fasteners using a 10mm socket (if bolts) or a flat-blade screwdriver (if screws), then lift the cover.
• Tip: Bag fasteners so none get lost.

Step 2: Disconnect the electrical connector

• Press the lock tab and unplug the pump module connector by hand (use needle-nose pliers only if needed).
• Inspect the connector for green corrosion or melted plastic; clean/dry as needed.

Step 3: Disconnect the fuel lines (quick-connect)

• Place shop towels and a catch pan under the fittings.
• Use the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty) to release the line(s), then pull straight off.
• A “quick-connect” is a snap-on fuel fitting that releases with a special collar tool.
• Cap or wrap the open lines with shop towels to reduce fumes.

Step 4: Remove the fuel pump lock ring

• Mark the lock ring and tank with a flat-blade screwdriver scratch mark so you can line it up during install.
• Use a fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) with a ratchet to loosen and remove the lock ring.
• If the tool won’t fit, use a brass punch and small hammer to tap the ring counterclockwise. Brass is used to reduce spark risk.

Step 5: Remove the fuel pump module

• Lift the module straight up slowly; tilt as needed to clear the float arm (fuel level sensor) without bending it.
• Let fuel drain from the module into the tank for a few seconds, then move it to the catch pan.
• Remove the old seal (O-ring) from the tank opening by hand.

Step 6: Install the new seal and module

• Install the new fuel pump module seal into the tank groove by hand; ensure it sits flat and is not twisted.
• Lower the new module into place carefully, guiding the float arm in without forcing it.
• Align the module index marks with the tank marks (use your earlier reference mark).

Step 7: Reinstall the lock ring

• Thread/seat the lock ring by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten using the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) and 3/8" drive torque wrench to the specification listed for your replacement lock ring/module instructions.
• If no spec is provided, tighten until the ring is fully seated and aligned to the original marks; do not over-tighten.

Step 8: Reconnect fuel lines and electrical

• Push the fuel line quick-connect(s) on until you feel/hear a click; gently tug to confirm locked.
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 9: Close up the access area

• Reinstall the access cover and fasteners using a 10mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver.
• Reinstall any trim panels using the trim clip removal tool as needed.

Step 10 (Alternate Path): If there is no access panel, lower the fuel tank

• Safely raise the vehicle using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Support the tank with a transmission jack (specialty).
• Disconnect electrical and fuel lines using needle-nose pliers and fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty).
• Remove tank strap bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet, then lower the tank enough to access the module on top.
• Swap the module as in Steps 4-8, then raise and secure the tank.

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
• Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay in the under-hood fuse box.
• Prime the system: turn the key to ON (do not start) for 3 seconds, then OFF for 10 seconds; repeat 3 times.
• Start the engine and let it idle for 2 minutes.
• Check carefully for leaks at the module seal and fuel line connections.
• Clear any stored codes if a warning light appears (a scan tool may be needed).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.