🔧 ILX - Fuel Pump Replacement

The fuel pump on your ILX is an in-tank module that supplies pressurized fuel to the engine. Replacement typically involves accessing the pump through a service cover under the rear seat, disconnecting the fuel lines and wiring, then swapping the module with a new seal to prevent leaks and fuel smell.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

Assumption: Your ILX has a rear-seat access cover to the pump.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work outside or in a well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are flammable.
• ⚠️ No smoking, flames, heaters, or grinding/sparking tools nearby.
• ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line to avoid spray.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable to reduce spark risk.
• ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby and wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Use only non-sparking methods around the lock ring (no steel-on-steel hammering).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Fire extinguisher Class B
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 10mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3" extension (1/4" drive)
• Phillips screwdriver #2
• Trim removal tool set
• Needle-nose pliers
• Fuel line disconnect tool (specialty)
• Brass drift punch (specialty)
• Small dead-blow hammer
• Torque wrench (inch-pound)
• Torque wrench (ft-lb)
• Shop towels
• Catch pan (2-gallon)
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module tank seal O-ring/gasket - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump strainer (sock filter) - Qty: 1
• Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
• Open the fuel door to help relieve tank vapor pressure.
• Relieve fuel pressure: remove the fuel pump fuse/relay, start the engine, and let it stall; crank 3 seconds more.
• Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable using a 10mm socket and move it aside. Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lb) on reassembly.
• Have shop towels ready for a small amount of fuel spillage.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear seat cushion

• Use a trim removal tool set to gently pop up the rear seat cushion release points (usually at the front edge of the cushion).
• Lift the cushion up and out. Set it aside where it won’t get dirty.

Step 2: Open the fuel pump access cover

• Locate the service cover on the floor under the seat.
• Remove the cover fasteners using a Phillips screwdriver #2 or 10mm socket (varies by cover style).
• Lift the cover and clean loose dirt around the pump area using shop towels. Cleanliness prevents tank contamination.

Step 3: Disconnect the electrical connector

• Press the lock tab and unplug the connector by hand; use needle-nose pliers only if needed.
• Move the harness aside so it can’t fall back into your work area.

Step 4: Disconnect the fuel lines

• Wrap the connection with shop towels to catch any fuel.
• Release the quick-connect fitting by hand; if tight, use a fuel line disconnect tool (specialty) (this tool slides into the connector to release the internal spring).
• Cap/cover the open lines with clean towels to keep dirt out.

Step 5: Remove the fuel pump lock ring

• Mark the lock ring and tank with a reference line using a flashlight to see clearly.
• Use a brass drift punch (specialty) and small dead-blow hammer to tap the ring counterclockwise until it releases. (Brass is softer and reduces spark risk.)
• Remove the ring and set it aside.

Step 6: Remove the fuel pump module

• Lift the module straight up slowly by hand, guiding the float arm and strainer out without bending them.
• Angle it slightly to drain fuel back into the tank; use a catch pan (2-gallon) under the opening for drips.
• Remove and discard the old tank seal O-ring/gasket.

Step 7: Install the new seal and new pump module

• Install the new O-ring/gasket onto the tank opening (or onto the module, depending on design) by hand.
• Lower the new module in, carefully guiding the float/strainer into the tank.
• Align the module’s index marks with the tank marks.

Step 8: Reinstall and tighten the lock ring

• Install the lock ring by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten the ring clockwise using the brass drift punch (specialty) and small dead-blow hammer until fully seated and aligned to your reference marks.
• If using a lock-ring adapter and torque wrench: Torque to 93 Nm (69 ft-lb).

Step 9: Reconnect fuel lines and electrical

• Reconnect the fuel quick-connects by hand until they click; tug gently to confirm they’re locked.
• Reconnect the electrical connector by hand until it clicks.

Step 10: Reinstall the access cover and rear seat

• Reinstall the service cover using a Phillips screwdriver #2 or 10mm socket. Torque to 3.5 Nm (31 in-lb) if using a torque wrench.
• Reinstall the seat cushion by lining up the hooks and pushing down firmly until it snaps in.

Step 11: Restore power and prime the system

• Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket. Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lb).
• Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay by hand.
• Turn ignition ON (do not start) for 5 seconds, then OFF; repeat 3 times to prime the fuel system.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle 2 minutes while you check for leaks at the pump top and fuel line connections.
• If the engine cranks long, repeat the key ON/OFF prime cycle 2-3 more times.
• Clear any stored codes with a scan tool if the check engine light stays on.
• Test drive 5-10 minutes, then re-check for any fuel smell or dampness under the seat.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $750-$1,250 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $500-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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