How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 (In-Tank Module)
Step-by-step tank-drop instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and key torque specs
How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 (In-Tank Module)
Step-by-step tank-drop instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and key torque specs


🔧 Sierra 1500 - Fuel Pump Replacement
Your Sierra 1500 uses an in-tank fuel pump module. The safe DIY method is to lower the fuel tank, unplug the wiring and lines, then swap the pump module and seal to fix no-start, stalling, low fuel pressure, or a loud whining pump.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area (fuel vapors are flammable).
- ⚠️ No smoking, no sparks, no work lights with broken lenses.
- ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher within reach.
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line.
- ⚠️ Support the fuel tank with a jack before removing strap bolts (a full tank is extremely heavy).
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent sparks.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Class B fire extinguisher
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Transmission jack (specialty)
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extensions (6" and 12")
- Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
- Fuel line disconnect tool set (3/8" and 1/2") (specialty)
- Flat blade screwdriver
- Brass punch (specialty)
- Dead-blow hammer
- Drain pan
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly (in-tank) - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module tank seal O-ring - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1 (recommended)
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- ⛽ Drive until the tank is as close to empty as possible (this makes the tank much lighter).
- 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- 🧯 Plan a “clean zone” to set the pump module down (no dirt allowed near the open tank).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve fuel system pressure
- Open the hood.
- Remove the fuel pump fuse/relay (from the underhood fuse block).
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
- Crank for 5 seconds one more time, then turn the key OFF.
- Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay.
Step 2: Raise and support the truck
- Use a floor jack to lift the rear of the truck.
- Set it securely on jack stands placed under the frame.
Step 3: Support the fuel tank
- Position a transmission jack under the fuel tank and lightly snug it up. (A transmission jack is a wide, stable jack made to hold big items like tanks.)
- Place a piece of cardboard on the jack pad if needed to prevent slipping.
Step 4: Remove shields (if equipped)
- Remove any fuel tank shield fasteners using a 13mm socket or 15mm socket (varies by equipment).
- Set shields and bolts aside in a tray.
Step 5: Disconnect the filler neck and vent hoses
- At the fuel fill area, loosen hose clamps using a flat blade screwdriver.
- Twist and pull the filler/vent hoses off carefully.
- Tip: Twist first, then pull.
Step 6: Lower the tank slightly to access connections
- Remove the fuel tank strap bolts using a 13mm socket, while the transmission jack supports the tank.
- Slowly lower the tank a few inches using the jack so you can reach the lines on top.
- When reinstalling the strap bolts: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Disconnect electrical connector and EVAP line(s)
- Unplug the fuel pump module electrical connector by releasing the lock tab by hand (use a flat blade screwdriver gently if needed).
- Disconnect EVAP/vapor quick-connect line(s) by pressing the retainer and pulling straight off.
Step 8: Disconnect the fuel feed line
- Place a drain pan and shop towels under the connection.
- Use the fuel line disconnect tool set (3/8" and 1/2") to release the fitting, then pull the line off. (This tool slides into the fitting to release the internal spring lock.)
- Cap/cover the open line ends with a clean towel to keep dirt out.
Step 9: Fully lower and remove the fuel tank
- Double-check all hoses/lines/wiring are disconnected.
- Slowly lower the tank the rest of the way using the transmission jack.
- Carefully slide the tank out from under the truck.
Step 10: Remove the fuel pump module lock ring
- Clean the top of the tank thoroughly using shop towels (do not blow dirt with compressed air).
- Use a brass punch and dead-blow hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases.
- Lift the lock ring off.
Step 11: Remove the fuel pump module
- Carefully lift the module out of the tank (tilt as needed to clear the float arm).
- Remove the old seal O-ring from the tank opening.
- Wipe the sealing surface clean with shop towels.
Step 12: Install the new seal and pump module
- Install the new tank seal O-ring into the groove/opening.
- Lower the new pump module into the tank, keeping the O-ring in place.
- Install the lock ring and tap it clockwise using the brass punch and dead-blow hammer until fully seated/locked.
- Tip: If it won’t seat, re-check O-ring placement.
Step 13: Reinstall the tank and reconnect everything
- Slide the tank back under the truck and raise it with the transmission jack.
- Reconnect the fuel line until it clicks (light tug to confirm it’s locked).
- Reconnect EVAP/vapor line(s) and the electrical connector.
- Reinstall fuel tank straps and start bolts by hand, then tighten using a 13mm socket.
- Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for the strap bolts.
- Reconnect filler and vent hoses and tighten clamps with a flat blade screwdriver.
- Reinstall any shields using a 13mm socket or 15mm socket.
Step 14: Reconnect the battery
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- 🔑 Prime the system: key ON for 2 seconds, key OFF for 10 seconds—repeat 3 times (do not crank).
- 🧻 Check for leaks at the fuel line connection and around the top of the tank (smell and visual check).
- 🚗 Start the engine and let it idle for 2–3 minutes while you re-check for leaks.
- 🛣️ Test drive close to home, then re-check for any fuel smell or wet spots.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$700 (parts only)
You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















