How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2013 Toyota Camry (In-Tank Module Under Rear Seat)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and fuel pressure relief/prime steps
How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2013 Toyota Camry (In-Tank Module Under Rear Seat)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and fuel pressure relief/prime steps


🔧 Camry - Fuel Pump Replacement
The fuel pump on your Camry is inside the fuel tank, and you access it from a service opening under the rear seat. You’ll relieve fuel pressure, unplug the wiring and fuel line, remove the pump module, and install a new seal so it won’t leak fumes or fuel.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work outside or in a well-ventilated area; fuel vapors are flammable.
- ⚠️ No smoking, sparks, heat guns, or drop lights with hot bulbs near the car.
- ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before opening the tank.
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting the fuel line to prevent spray.
- ⚠️ Clean dirt around the pump opening so debris doesn’t fall into the tank.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3" extension (1/4" drive)
- Trim removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver (small)
- Pick tool (small)
- Pliers
- Fuel line disconnect tool set
- Torque wrench (inch-pound capable)
- Shop towels
- Catch pan (small)
- Hand vacuum or shop vacuum
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- Class B fire extinguisher
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump strainer (sock filter) - Qty: 1 (if not included)
- Fuel line retaining clip - Qty: 1 (if damaged)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Drive until the fuel level is low (about 1/4 tank or less) to reduce spills.
- Relieve fuel pressure:
- Open the fuse/relay box and remove the fuel pump relay (often called a circuit opening relay). If unsure, use the fuse box lid diagram.
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
- Turn the key OFF.
- Disconnect the battery:
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
- Quick question (so the steps match what you’ll see): Once the access cover is off, is the pump held down by a large plastic lock ring or by multiple small nuts/bolts around the flange?
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the rear seat cushion
- Use a trim removal tool to pop the front seat cushion retainers up (one near each front corner).
- Lift the cushion up and out, then set it aside.
Step 2: Remove the fuel pump service cover
- Use a trim removal tool to peel back the carpet/insulation over the service opening.
- Remove the service cover fasteners using a 10mm socket (if equipped) and lift the cover off.
- Use a hand vacuum or shop vacuum to remove loose dirt around the opening.
Step 3: Disconnect the electrical connector
- Press the lock tab and unplug the pump module connector by hand.
- Don’t pull on the wires.
Step 4: Disconnect the fuel line
- Wrap the connection with shop towels to catch fuel.
- Use a pick tool (small) to release the safety clip (if present).
- Use the fuel line disconnect tool set (if required) and pull the line straight off.
- Let any fuel drip into a catch pan (small).
Step 5: Remove the pump module retainer (two common styles)
- If your Camry uses a large lock ring:
- Use a flathead screwdriver (small) and pliers to carefully tap/turn the ring counterclockwise until it releases.
- Use gentle taps—avoid sparks and cracked plastic.
- If your Camry uses multiple small nuts/bolts:
- Use the appropriate 10mm socket to remove them evenly in a crisscross pattern.
- Torque note: On reassembly, use a torque wrench (inch-pound capable) and tighten fasteners to Toyota service specification for your retainer style. (Fastener torque varies by retainer design.)
Step 6: Remove the fuel pump module
- Lift the module up slowly by hand.
- Angle it as needed to clear the float arm (fuel level sender) without bending it.
- Place the module into a catch pan (small) to drain.
Step 7: Replace the tank seal (O-ring/gasket)
- Remove the old seal from the tank opening by hand.
- Wipe the sealing surface clean using shop towels.
- Install the new seal in the correct groove, making sure it sits flat and is not twisted.
Step 8: Install the new pump module
- Carefully lower the new module into the tank, guiding the float arm in without force.
- Align any index marks/arrows on the module and tank opening (if present).
- Reinstall the retainer (lock ring or nuts/bolts):
- Use a flathead screwdriver (small) and pliers to snug the lock ring fully into its stops, or
- Use a 10mm socket to snug nuts/bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern.
- Torque note: Finish tightening with the torque wrench (inch-pound capable) to Toyota service specification for your retainer style.
Step 9: Reconnect the fuel line and electrical connector
- Push the fuel line on until it clicks/locks; reinstall any safety clip using a pick tool (small) if needed.
- Plug the electrical connector back in until it clicks.
Step 10: Reinstall the service cover and rear seat
- Reinstall the service cover using a 10mm socket (if equipped).
- Reposition carpet/insulation.
- Set the rear seat cushion in place and push down firmly to re-engage the retainers.
✅ After Repair
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Reinstall the fuel pump relay (if removed).
- Prime the system:
- Turn key ON (engine OFF) for 5 seconds, then OFF for 5 seconds.
- Repeat 3 times to build fuel pressure.
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes.
- Check for fuel smell or leaks at the pump top and fuel line connection.
- If the check engine light comes on, scan for codes and address any EVAP/fuel pressure related codes.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $700-$1,300 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $450-$650 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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