🔧 Altima - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Altima, the fuel pump is an in-tank module that you can usually access from inside the car under the rear seat. Replacing it restores correct fuel pressure/flow and can fix hard starting, stalling, or a no-start caused by a weak or failed pump.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area (fuel vapors ignite easily).
• ⚠️ No smoking, no heat guns, no shop lights with hot bulbs near the open tank.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the battery negative terminal before opening the fuel system.
• ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting fuel lines to avoid spray.
• ⚠️ Keep a fire extinguisher rated for fuel/liquids nearby.
• ⚠️ Use only non-sparking tools if tapping the lock ring.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 1/4" ratchet
• 3" extension
• Phillips #2 screwdriver
• Small flat-blade screwdriver
• Plastic trim removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set
• Brass drift/punch (non-sparking)
• Small hammer
• Torque wrench (inch-pound)
• Torque wrench (foot-pound)
• Shop towels
• Fuel-safe drain pan
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1 (recommended if damaged)
• Butyl sealing tape (access cover reseal) - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• ⛽ Try to work with the fuel level below 1/2 tank (lighter and less spill risk).
• 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet; Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs) on reassembly.
• 🧯 Relieve fuel pressure:
  • Remove the fuel pump fuse/relay (use the fuse box legend to identify it), then reconnect the battery temporarily, start the engine, and let it run until it stalls.
  • Turn key OFF, disconnect battery negative again using the 10mm socket.
• 🧼 Clean the area around the access cover so dirt can’t fall into the tank.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear seat cushion

• Use a plastic trim removal tool to release the front clips of the rear seat bottom (pull up firmly at the front edge).
• Lift the seat cushion out and set it aside.
• Tip: Pull straight up at the clip points.

Step 2: Remove the fuel pump access cover

• Locate the round/oval access cover in the floor under the rear seat area.
• Remove the cover fasteners using a 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet (or a Phillips #2 screwdriver, depending on cover style).
• Lift the cover and peel back old sealant; use shop towels to keep debris out.
• Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs) when reinstalling access-cover fasteners.

Step 3: Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector

• Press the tab and unplug the connector by hand; use a small flat-blade screwdriver only if the tab is stuck.

Step 4: Disconnect the fuel lines

• Place a fuel-safe drain pan and shop towels under the lines to catch drips.
• Release the quick-connect(s) (some fittings need a fuel line quick-disconnect tool set).
• Cap/cover the open lines with clean towels to keep dirt out.

Step 5: Remove the lock ring

• Mark the relationship between the tank and the module using a marker (alignment reference).
• Remove the lock ring by tapping it counterclockwise using a brass drift/punch (non-sparking) and small hammer.
• Lift the lock ring off and set it aside.
• Tip: Small taps work better than big hits.

Step 6: Remove the fuel pump module

• Carefully lift the module straight up; tilt as needed to clear the float arm (fuel level sender).
• Let fuel drain from the module into the fuel-safe drain pan.
• Remove and discard the old seal/O-ring from the tank opening.

Step 7: Install the new seal and fuel pump module

• Install the new fuel pump module seal/O-ring into the tank groove (make sure it sits flat and not twisted).
• Lower the new module into the tank, keeping the float arm from bending.
• Align the module to your marks.

Step 8: Reinstall and tighten the lock ring

• Install the lock ring and tighten it clockwise using the brass drift/punch (non-sparking) and small hammer.
• Final tighten to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reconnect lines and wiring

• Reconnect the fuel line(s) until they click; gently tug to confirm they’re locked.
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 10: Reseal the access cover and reinstall the seat

• Apply new butyl sealing tape to reseal the access cover.
• Reinstall the access cover fasteners using the 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet; Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
• Reinstall the rear seat cushion and press down firmly to re-engage the clips.

---

✅ After Repair

• 🔋 Reconnect the battery negative terminal using the 10mm socket; Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
• 🔑 Prime the system: turn key to ON (do not start) for 5 seconds, OFF for 5 seconds; repeat 3 times.
• 🧪 Start the engine and let it idle; check for fuel leaks at the top of the module and the line fittings.
• 🚗 Test drive 5–10 minutes, then recheck for fuel smell/leaks.
• 🛑 If you see seepage, shut off immediately and recheck the seal/lock ring seating.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.