🔧 Fuel Pump Module - Replacement

On your Ram, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank as part of the pump module. This job means relieving fuel pressure, lowering the tank, and swapping the module and seal without damaging the tank or lines.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Fuel vapors are flammable. Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area.
• Keep sparks, cigarettes, heat guns, and open flames away from the truck.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting.
• Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line.
• Support the fuel tank securely before removing straps.
• Do not let the tank hang by the fuel lines, filler neck, or wiring.
• Use a fuel-safe drain container if the tank contains a lot of fuel.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Ratchet
• 1/4-inch drive extension
• 3/8-inch drive extension
• Fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty)
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wood block
• Torque wrench
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Pick tool
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Fuel-safe drain pan
• Shop towels

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module seal / O-ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel tank strap bolts - Qty: 2
• Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Run the fuel level as low as practical before starting. A lighter tank is much safer to lower.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the fuel system.
• If you have a fuel pressure relief procedure listed in your dash menus or service information, do that first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure

• Remove the fuel pump relay or fuse from the underhood fuse box if applicable, then crank the engine until it stalls. This bleeds off pressure.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver and shop towel to carefully check the service port only if equipped.
• Keep towels ready for small fuel drips.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the negative battery cable.
• Secure the cable away from the battery terminal so it cannot spring back.

Step 3: Raise and support the truck

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and jack stands rated 3-ton minimum to support the truck safely.
• Set the truck high enough to lower the tank out from under it.

Step 4: Support the fuel tank

• Place the floor jack with a wood block under the tank to spread the load.
• Raise the jack until it just supports the tank.
• Do not crush the tank.

Step 5: Disconnect tank connections

• Use a fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty) to separate the fuel supply line.
• Disconnect the electrical connector to the pump module.
• Remove any vent or EVAP hoses carefully by hand or with a pick tool if a clip is stuck.

Step 6: Remove the fuel tank straps

• Use a 15mm socket and ratchet to remove the tank strap bolts.
• Lower the straps slowly and keep supporting the tank with the jack.
• On reassembly, Torque to 41 Nm (30 ft-lbs) unless your service information specifies otherwise for your exact build.

Step 7: Lower the tank

• Lower the tank just enough to reach the top of the module.
• Make sure no hoses or wiring are still attached.
• If needed, lower the tank fully and slide it out from under the truck.

Step 8: Remove the fuel pump module

• Clean the top of the tank with a shop towel before opening it.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver or a proper lock ring tool, if available, to remove the lock ring.
• Lift the pump module straight out carefully to avoid bending the float arm.
• Remove the old seal / O-ring.
• Cleanliness matters here.

Step 9: Install the new fuel pump module

• Install the new seal / O-ring in the tank opening.
• Lower the new module straight into place, lining up the marks or tabs.
• Install and secure the lock ring fully.
• Make sure the module sits flat and the seal is not pinched.

Step 10: Reinstall the tank

• Raise the tank with the floor jack until it is near position.
• Reconnect the electrical connector, fuel line, and vent hoses.
• Lift the tank fully into place.
• Install the tank straps with a 15mm socket.
• Torque to 41 Nm (30 ft-lbs) on the strap bolts unless your service information calls for a different spec.

Step 11: Reconnect the battery and prime the system

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Turn the key to ON for about 5 seconds, then OFF. Repeat 3-4 times to prime the fuel system.
• Start the engine and let it idle.

Step 12: Check for leaks

• Inspect the fuel line connections, top of tank, and filler area for leaks.
• Look under the truck for drips while the engine is running.
• If you smell raw fuel, shut the engine off immediately and recheck your work.

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✅ After Repair

• Verify the engine starts quickly and idles smoothly.
• Check the fuel gauge for normal operation.
• Road test the truck and confirm there are no hesitation or stalling issues.
• Recheck for fuel leaks after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$1,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.