🔧 Silverado 1500 - Fuel Pump Module Replacement

You’ll be replacing the in-tank fuel pump module on your Silverado 1500, which sits on top of the fuel tank. To reach it, you’ll lower the fuel tank, swap the pump module, then reinstall and check for leaks.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3–5 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work away from open flames, cigarettes, heaters, or sparks; gasoline fumes ignite easily.
• ⚠️ Always support the truck with jack stands, never rely only on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ You are working on a hybrid: stay away from any bright orange cables or connectors (these are high-voltage).
• ⚠️ Gasoline will drip from the lines; wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• ⚠️ The fuel tank is heavy, especially if not almost empty; support it with a floor jack or transmission jack before removing straps.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery and the hybrid service disconnect before starting to avoid sparks and hybrid system wake-up.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) - Qty: 4
• 🛠️ Wheel chocks
• 🛠️ 3/8" drive ratchet
• 🛠️ 1/2" drive ratchet
• 🛠️ 13mm socket
• 🛠️ 15mm socket
• 🛠️ 18mm socket
• 🛠️ 6" socket extension
• 🛠️ Torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs range)
• 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• 🛠️ Trim clip removal tool
• 🛠️ Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (GM) (specialty)
• 🛠️ Fuel tank strap tool or pry bar (small)
• 🛠️ Brass drift/punch (specialty)
• 🛠️ Small hammer
• 🛠️ Shop light or headlamp (LED)
• 🛠️ Drain pan (fuel compatible)
• 🛠️ Rags or shop towels
• 🛠️ Safety glasses
• 🛠️ Nitrile gloves

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🧩 Fuel pump module assembly (in-tank) - Qty: 1
• 🧩 Fuel pump module seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
• 🧩 Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1 (recommend replacing)
• 🧩 Fuel tank strap bolts - Qty: 2–4 (optional, if rusty)
• 🧩 Fuel tank straps - Qty: 2 (optional, if corroded)
• 🧩 Penetrating oil spray - Qty: 1
• 🧩 Dielectric grease - Qty: 1 small tube

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Silverado 1500 on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Run the fuel level down as low as possible; a near-empty tank is much lighter.
• Open the fuel filler door and remove the fuel cap to relieve tank vapor pressure.
• Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable using a 10mm wrench (10mm wrench not listed in tools; if you want, I can add it to the list for you).
• Locate the hybrid service disconnect behind the rear seat (left side), follow the label, and pull the disconnect handle to isolate the high-voltage battery.
• Allow the vehicle to sit at least 5–10 minutes after disconnecting before starting work under the truck.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Truck

• Position the floor jack under the rear axle tube and raise the rear of your Silverado 1500 enough to work under the fuel tank.
• Place jack stands under the frame rails on both sides and lower the truck onto the stands.
• Leave the floor jack nearby; you will use it later to support the fuel tank.

Step 2: Remove Fuel Tank Shield (If Equipped)

• Spray the tank shield and strap bolts with penetrating oil and let it soak for a few minutes.
• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the bolts holding any plastic or metal fuel tank shield.
• Carefully lower the shield and set it aside.
• Torque on reassembly: 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for tank shield bolts.

Step 3: Support the Fuel Tank

• Place a wide block of wood on the pad of your floor jack to spread the load.
• Roll the jack under the fuel tank and raise it until it just supports the tank, without lifting the truck.
• Keep tank well supported at all times.

Step 4: Disconnect Filler Neck and Vent Hoses

• Locate the large rubber hose where the filler neck meets the tank.
• Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp at the tank side.
• Gently twist and pull the hose off the tank fitting; use the flathead screwdriver to help break it free if stuck.
• Locate the smaller vent hoses and loosen their clamps with the flathead screwdriver, then pull them off as well.

Step 5: Disconnect Fuel and EVAP Lines (Top of Tank Area)

• Crawl under near the front of the tank and identify the fuel lines and EVAP lines running to the top of the tank.
• Place a drain pan under the area to catch fuel drips.
• Use the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (GM) to release each quick-connect fitting:
  • Slide the tool into the fitting until it releases.
  • Pull the line straight off gently.
• Disconnect any small EVAP vapor lines by pressing the plastic tabs with your fingers or a flathead screwdriver and pulling them off.

Step 6: Unplug Fuel Pump Electrical Connector

• Locate the wiring connector going to the fuel pump module on top of the tank (may be reached from the side of the tank).
• Press the locking tab with your fingers or a flathead screwdriver, and pull the connector straight off.
• Do not pull on the wires, only the connector.

Step 7: Remove Fuel Tank Straps

• With the tank still supported by the floor jack, locate the strap bolts at the rear and front of the tank.
• Use a 15mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to remove the strap bolts while keeping one hand on the strap so it does not fall.
• If bolts are very rusty, work them back and forth gently rather than forcing them.
• Remove the straps or swing them down out of the way.
• Torque on reassembly: 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs) for tank strap bolts.

Step 8: Lower and Remove the Fuel Tank

• Slowly lower the floor jack a little at a time, watching for any hoses or wires still attached.
• If you see anything still connected, stop, raise the tank slightly, disconnect the item with your hands or the flathead screwdriver, then continue lowering.
• Once the tank is low enough, slide it out from under the truck on the jack or carefully by hand.

Step 9: Clean Around the Pump Module

• Set the tank on a clean surface.
• Use a rag and a small brush (if available) to clean dirt and rust from around the fuel pump lock ring and opening.
• Keeping dirt out of the tank is very important.

Step 10: Remove Fuel Pump Lock Ring

• Identify the metal lock ring that holds the pump module in the tank.
• Place the brass drift/punch against one of the lock ring tabs (brass avoids sparks).
• Tap the drift with the small hammer to rotate the lock ring counterclockwise until it is free.
• Lift off the lock ring and set it aside (or discard if replacing).

Step 11: Remove Old Fuel Pump Module

• Carefully lift the old fuel pump module straight up from the tank opening.
• Angle it slightly as needed to clear the float arm (fuel level sensor) from the hole.
• Remove the old seal/O-ring from the tank opening using a flathead screwdriver if needed.

Step 12: Install New Seal and Pump Module

• Wipe the sealing surface on the tank clean with a rag.
• Place the new fuel pump module seal/O-ring into the groove around the tank opening.
• Lower the new fuel pump module into the tank, making sure the float arm is not bent.
• Align the pump module in the same orientation as the old one (electrical connector and line outlets in the same direction).

Step 13: Install Lock Ring

• Place the new or cleaned lock ring over the pump module and into its slots.
• Use the brass drift/punch and small hammer to tap the lock ring clockwise until it is fully seated in the locking stops.
• Ring must be fully locked to prevent leaks.

Step 14: Reinstall Fuel Tank

• Place the tank back on the floor jack and roll it under your Silverado 1500.
• Raise the tank slowly, watching that no hoses or wires are trapped between tank and frame.
• Once in position, loosely install the straps with the 15mm socket and 1/2" ratchet.
• After the straps are snug, torque the strap bolts to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs) using the torque wrench and 15mm socket.

Step 15: Reconnect Filler Neck, Vent Hoses, and Lines

• Slide the filler neck hose onto the tank fitting and tighten the clamp with the flathead screwdriver.
• Reconnect all vent hoses and tighten their clamps with the flathead screwdriver.
• Reconnect the fuel lines and EVAP lines using your hands and, if needed, the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (GM) to ensure correct seating:
  • Push the fittings on until you feel or hear a click.

Step 16: Reconnect Fuel Pump Electrical Connector

• Apply a tiny amount of dielectric grease to the pump connector seal.
• Plug the connector onto the pump module until it clicks.

Step 17: Reinstall Fuel Tank Shield

• Lift the tank shield back into place.
• Install the bolts using the 13mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) with the torque wrench and 13mm socket.

Step 18: Lower the Truck and Restore Power

• Use the floor jack to raise the truck slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower the truck fully to the ground.
• Reinstall the hybrid service disconnect by pushing it back into its locked position.
• Reconnect the 12V battery negative cable with a 10mm wrench and tighten snugly.
• Install the fuel cap on the filler neck.

---

✅ After Repair

• Turn the ignition key to ON (engine off) for 5 seconds, then back to OFF. Repeat 2–3 times to prime the fuel system.
• Start the engine and let it idle; it may crank a few extra seconds the first time.
• With the engine running, inspect under your Silverado 1500 for fuel leaks around the tank and line connections.
• Take a short, gentle test drive and watch for any warning lights on the dash.
• If a check engine light appears, have the codes read with a scan tool to confirm everything is OK.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700–$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250–$450 (parts only)

You Save: $450–$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2–3 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections above to add everything to your cart.