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2013 Toyota Camry
2012 - 2017 Toyota Camry
Inline 4 2.5L
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Fuel Pump Removal 2013 Toyota Camry

Fuel Pump Removal 2013 Toyota Camry

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10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
3"
3"
Extension
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How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry (Step-by-Step DIY) (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Detailed in-tank fuel pump replacement guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings comparison

How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2012-2017 Toyota Camry (Step-by-Step DIY) (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Detailed in-tank fuel pump replacement guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings comparison for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

Orion
Orion

🔧 Camry - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Camry, the fuel pump is an in-tank electric pump mounted in a fuel pump module under the rear seat. You’ll remove the rear seat cushion, open an access cover, then remove and replace the pump assembly. This restores proper fuel pressure if your pump has failed.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Gasoline is highly flammable. Work in a well-ventilated area away from open flames, heaters, and sparks.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the fuel system to avoid sparks.
  • ⚠️ Relieve fuel system pressure before disconnecting fuel lines to avoid fuel spray.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves to protect your eyes and skin.
  • ⚠️ Keep a class B/C fire extinguisher nearby whenever working with fuel.
  • ⚠️ Do not use power tools that can spark (like an angle grinder) near the open fuel tank.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 1/4" drive extension (3"–6")
  • Flathead screwdriver (small)
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Plastic trim removal tool
  • Fuel line disconnect tool (Toyota-style, 5/16") (specialty)
  • Fuel pump retaining ring tool (Toyota fuel pump ring spanner) (specialty)
  • Torque wrench (inch-pound, 30–100 in-lbs range)
  • Torque wrench (foot-pound, 5–50 ft-lbs range)
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Shop rags
  • Small drain pan
  • Plastic scraper
  • Marker pen
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Work light (LED)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Fuel pump module assembly (includes pump, level sensor, strainer) - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump module tank gasket/O-ring - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump retaining ring (lock ring) - Qty: 1
  • Fuel line quick-connect clips - Qty: 2
  • Electrical contact cleaner spray - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner or parts cleaner (for cleaning area) - Qty: 1
  • Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park the Camry on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Ideally work with the fuel tank under half full to reduce spillage.
  • Open all doors or windows slightly for ventilation while you work.
  • Turn ignition OFF and remove the key from the ignition.
  • Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket and set the cable aside so it cannot spring back.
  • Relieve fuel pressure:
    • Remove the fuel pump fuse or relay from the under-hood fuse box (check cover diagram).
    • Start the engine and let it run until it stalls, then crank 2–3 more seconds.
    • Turn ignition OFF.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear seat cushion

  • Slide the front seats forward for more room in the rear.
  • Locate the two seat cushion release tabs at the front edge of the rear seat (left and right sides).
  • Push each tab rearward firmly by hand, then lift up on the front of the seat cushion.
  • Lift the seat cushion out of the car and set it aside carefully.
  • Check for hidden wiring under cushion before pulling hard.

Step 2: Expose the fuel pump access cover

  • Under the seat area, locate the round or oval metal access cover on the right side (passenger side).
  • Use a plastic trim removal tool to gently lift the edge of the cover if it is taped or sealed.
  • Remove any screws if present using a Phillips screwdriver.
  • Carefully peel back any butyl tape or sealant and lift the cover off to expose the top of the fuel pump module.
  • Clean dirt and dust around the pump area with shop rags and brake cleaner so nothing falls into the tank.

Step 3: Disconnect electrical connectors

  • Identify the main electrical connector on top of the fuel pump module.
  • Press the locking tab with a flathead screwdriver (small) and gently pull the connector straight off.
  • If there are any smaller connectors, disconnect them the same way.
  • If contacts look dirty or corroded, lightly spray electrical contact cleaner and let dry.

Step 4: Disconnect fuel lines

  • Place a small drain pan and shop rags around the fuel line connections to catch drips.
  • Most lines are quick-connect style. These have plastic clips that lock onto a tube.
  • Use the fuel line disconnect tool (Toyota-style, 5/16") (specialty) or fingers to release the clip:
    • Squeeze or spread the clip as needed (depends on style) and gently pull the line straight off the fitting.
  • If the clip is damaged or brittle, remove it with needle-nose pliers and plan to install a new clip.
  • Expect a small amount of fuel to drip; wipe with shop rags.
  • Do not twist lines hard, you can crack them.

Step 5: Mark pump position

  • Use a marker pen to mark alignment between the fuel pump module top and the tank (for example, draw a line across both).
  • This helps you install the new pump in the same orientation so the fuel level float works correctly.

Step 6: Remove the fuel pump retaining ring

  • The pump is held by a large plastic or metal retaining ring.
  • Use the fuel pump retaining ring tool (specialty) on the ring tabs and turn it counterclockwise to loosen.
  • If you do not have the specialty tool, you can very carefully use a plastic scraper or a dull tool and a small mallet to tap the ring loose, but the proper tool is strongly recommended.
  • Remove the ring and set it aside. If it’s worn or damaged, replace with the new one.
  • Note the position of the old gasket/O-ring under the ring.

Step 7: Remove the fuel pump module from the tank

  • Gently lift the top of the fuel pump module up by hand.
  • Angle the assembly slowly to clear the float arm (the thin metal rod with a small plastic float for the fuel gauge).
  • Let excess fuel drain from the pump into the tank before lifting it fully out.
  • Place the old pump module in the small drain pan to catch drips.
  • Remove the old tank gasket/O-ring from the tank opening using a plastic scraper if it is stuck.

Step 8: Prepare the new fuel pump module

  • Compare the new pump module to the old one:
    • Same shape and size.
    • Same electrical connectors.
    • Same fuel line connection points.
  • Ensure the new pump has a new strainer (the small mesh filter) installed and secure.
  • Install the new tank gasket/O-ring into the groove on the tank opening.
  • Never reuse a swollen or damaged O-ring.

Step 9: Install the new fuel pump module into the tank

  • Carefully lower the new fuel pump module into the tank opening.
  • Angle the module so the float arm enters first without bending it.
  • Rotate the module so the top lines up with your alignment marks.
  • Make sure the gasket/O-ring stays seated flat and is not pinched.

Step 10: Reinstall and torque the retaining ring

  • Position the retaining ring over the pump module and onto the tank threads or tabs.
  • Use the fuel pump retaining ring tool (specialty) to turn the ring clockwise until it seats firmly.
  • Using a torque wrench (foot-pound, 5–50 ft-lbs range) with the retaining ring tool, tighten the ring to 68 Nm (50 ft-lbs) (Toyota spec range; do not overtighten).
  • Confirm the pump module top is flat and the gasket is not visible outside the ring.

Step 11: Reconnect fuel lines

  • Push each fuel line straight onto the correct fitting until it clicks.
  • If using new quick-connect clips, install them onto the line first with needle-nose pliers, then push the line on.
  • Gently tug on each line by hand to ensure it is locked.
  • Wipe away any spilled fuel with shop rags.

Step 12: Reconnect electrical connectors

  • Reconnect the main electrical connector by pushing it straight down onto the pump module until it clicks.
  • Reconnect any additional connectors in the same way.
  • Confirm that no wires are pinched and that connectors are fully seated.

Step 13: Reinstall the access cover

  • Set the access cover back over the pump opening.
  • If there was sealant or butyl tape, press it back into place or apply new sealant if needed.
  • Install any screws with a Phillips screwdriver and tighten snugly (no specific torque, just firm by hand).

Step 14: Reinstall the rear seat cushion

  • Place the rear seat cushion back into the car, rear edge first.
  • Align the hooks at the rear under the seat back.
  • Push down firmly at the front corners until you hear the clips click into place.
  • Check the seat is secure by pulling up gently at the front.

Step 15: Reconnect battery and prime the fuel system

  • Reinstall the fuel pump fuse or relay in the under-hood fuse box.
  • Reconnect the negative battery terminal with a 10mm socket and tighten to 5 Nm (45 in-lbs) (snug, not overtight).
  • Turn the ignition key to ON (not start) for 5 seconds, then OFF. Repeat 3–4 times to allow the pump to prime and build pressure.

Step 16: Start the engine and check for leaks

  • Start the engine and let it idle.
  • Listen at the rear seat area for a smooth humming from the pump (no loud whining or clunking).
  • Check around the fuel pump area (through the access cover opening if still visible) and under the car for any signs of fuel leaks.
  • If you see or smell fuel, shut the engine off immediately and recheck line connections and the retaining ring.

✅ After Repair

  • Let the engine idle for 5–10 minutes and monitor for leaks or fuel smell.
  • Take a short test drive and confirm normal acceleration and smooth running.
  • Verify the fuel gauge reads reasonably and changes as you add fuel over the next drive or two.
  • Check under the rear seat area again after the test drive for any fresh fuel seepage.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $370-$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.


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Guide for Fuel Pump Module Assembly replace for these Toyota vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2017 Toyota Camry-Inline 4 2.5L-
2016 Toyota Camry-Inline 4 2.5L-
2015 Toyota Camry-Inline 4 2.5L-
2014 Toyota Camry-Inline 4 2.5L-
2013 Toyota Camry-Inline 4 2.5L-
2012 Toyota Camry-Inline 4 2.5L-
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