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2011 Toyota Camry
2011 Toyota Camry
Hybrid - Inline 4 2.4L
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How to Replace Fuel Pump 2007-2011 Toyota Camry

How to Replace Fuel Pump 2007-2011 Toyota Camry

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
Flashlight
Flashlight
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
12mm
12mm
Socket
or (7/16")
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How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2011 Toyota Camry (In-Tank Module Under Rear Seat)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and leak-checking after installation

How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2011 Toyota Camry (In-Tank Module Under Rear Seat)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and leak-checking after installation

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

đź”§ Camry - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Camry Hybrid, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank as part of an in-tank module, accessed from under the rear seat. The job is mostly careful disassembly and reassembly—cleanliness and leak-checking are the big keys.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • đź§Ż Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area—gas fumes ignite easily.
  • đźš« No smoking, no sparks, no hot work lights; use an LED work light.
  • 🧤 Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves; fuel can spray when lines open.
  • 🔋 Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal before opening the tank module.
  • đź§Ľ Keep dirt out of the tank—clean the area before opening the pump module.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Fuel-resistant nitrile gloves
  • Class B fire extinguisher
  • LED work light
  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3" socket extension
  • Torque wrench (inch-pound)
  • Torque wrench (ft-lb)
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Flat trim removal tool
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Shop towels
  • Plastic catch pan
  • Paint marker
  • Fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • In-tank fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump strainer (sock filter) - Qty: 1

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park your Camry on level ground, set the parking brake, and open the fuel door.
  • Remove the fuel cap to reduce tank pressure.
  • Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket. (The 12V battery powers the car’s computers and relays.)
  • Place shop towels nearby to catch any fuel drips.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear seat cushion

  • Slide the front seats forward for working room.
  • Release the rear seat bottom cushion (some cushions pop up from front clips; some have bolts).
  • If bolts are present, remove them using a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Lift the seat cushion out and set it aside.

Step 2: Open the fuel pump access cover

  • Find the access panel in the floor under the rear seat area.
  • Remove the access cover screws using a Phillips screwdriver.
  • Peel back any butyl sealer carefully using a flat trim removal tool.

Step 3: Clean and mark the module position

  • Thoroughly wipe/vacuum dirt around the fuel pump module using shop towels. Cleanliness prevents tank contamination.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the alignment between the module and tank (helps reinstall correctly).

Step 4: Disconnect the electrical connector(s)

  • Unplug the pump/module connector(s) by releasing the lock tab by hand or with a flat trim removal tool.

Step 5: Disconnect the fuel line(s)

  • Wrap the connection with shop towels to catch any spray/drips.
  • Release the quick-connect fitting (press the tabs and pull the line straight off). Use needle-nose pliers only if needed and gently—don’t crush the fitting.
  • Let any fuel drain into a plastic catch pan.

Step 6: Remove the pump retaining ring (two common styles)

  • If your Camry uses a lock ring:
  • Use a fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty) to turn the ring counterclockwise and remove it.
  • If your Camry uses small retaining nuts/bolts:
  • Remove them evenly in a crisscross pattern using a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • During installation later: Torque to 4.0 Nm (35 in-lbs) in a crisscross pattern (do not overtighten).

Step 7: Lift the fuel pump module out

  • Carefully lift the module straight up; tilt as needed to clear the float arm (the fuel level sensor arm).
  • Have the plastic catch pan ready—fuel in the module will spill.
  • Remove the old tank seal (O-ring/gasket) from the tank opening by hand.

Step 8: Install the new seal and module

  • Install the new fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) onto the tank opening (or as supplied with your part).
  • Lower the new fuel pump module into the tank, keeping the float arm from binding.
  • Align to your paint marker marks.

Step 9: Reinstall the lock ring / fasteners

  • Lock ring style: Start the ring by hand, then tighten using the fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty) until fully seated and aligned.
  • Nut/bolt style: Tighten in a crisscross pattern using a 10mm socket, then Torque to 4.0 Nm (35 in-lbs).

Step 10: Reconnect fuel line(s) and electrical

  • Push the quick-connect fuel line on until it clicks; tug lightly to confirm it’s locked.
  • Reconnect the electrical connector(s) until the lock clicks.

Step 11: Reinstall the access cover and rear seat

  • Reinstall the access cover using a Phillips screwdriver.
  • Reinstall the rear seat cushion (and any bolts) using a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 12: Reconnect the 12V battery

  • Reconnect the negative terminal using a 10mm socket.

âś… After Repair

  • Turn the car to READY and let it sit for 10–20 seconds to allow the system to pressurize.
  • Check carefully for fuel smell or wetness at the line connection and around the module opening.
  • If you have a check engine light, scan and clear codes after confirming there are no leaks.
  • Take a short test drive, then re-check for leaks again.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $520-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.


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