How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2011 Toyota Camry (In-Tank Module Under Rear Seat)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and leak-checking after installation
How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2011 Toyota Camry (In-Tank Module Under Rear Seat)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and leak-checking after installation


đź”§ Camry - Fuel Pump Replacement
On your Camry Hybrid, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank as part of an in-tank module, accessed from under the rear seat. The job is mostly careful disassembly and reassembly—cleanliness and leak-checking are the big keys.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🧯 Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area—gas fumes ignite easily.
- đźš« No smoking, no sparks, no hot work lights; use an LED work light.
- 🧤 Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves; fuel can spray when lines open.
- 🔋 Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal before opening the tank module.
- 🧼 Keep dirt out of the tank—clean the area before opening the pump module.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Fuel-resistant nitrile gloves
- Class B fire extinguisher
- LED work light
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3" socket extension
- Torque wrench (inch-pound)
- Torque wrench (ft-lb)
- Phillips screwdriver
- Flat trim removal tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Shop towels
- Plastic catch pan
- Paint marker
- Fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- In-tank fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump strainer (sock filter) - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park your Camry on level ground, set the parking brake, and open the fuel door.
- Remove the fuel cap to reduce tank pressure.
- Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket. (The 12V battery powers the car’s computers and relays.)
- Place shop towels nearby to catch any fuel drips.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the rear seat cushion
- Slide the front seats forward for working room.
- Release the rear seat bottom cushion (some cushions pop up from front clips; some have bolts).
- If bolts are present, remove them using a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Lift the seat cushion out and set it aside.
Step 2: Open the fuel pump access cover
- Find the access panel in the floor under the rear seat area.
- Remove the access cover screws using a Phillips screwdriver.
- Peel back any butyl sealer carefully using a flat trim removal tool.
Step 3: Clean and mark the module position
- Thoroughly wipe/vacuum dirt around the fuel pump module using shop towels. Cleanliness prevents tank contamination.
- Use a paint marker to mark the alignment between the module and tank (helps reinstall correctly).
Step 4: Disconnect the electrical connector(s)
- Unplug the pump/module connector(s) by releasing the lock tab by hand or with a flat trim removal tool.
Step 5: Disconnect the fuel line(s)
- Wrap the connection with shop towels to catch any spray/drips.
- Release the quick-connect fitting (press the tabs and pull the line straight off). Use needle-nose pliers only if needed and gently—don’t crush the fitting.
- Let any fuel drain into a plastic catch pan.
Step 6: Remove the pump retaining ring (two common styles)
- If your Camry uses a lock ring:
- Use a fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty) to turn the ring counterclockwise and remove it.
- If your Camry uses small retaining nuts/bolts:
- Remove them evenly in a crisscross pattern using a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- During installation later: Torque to 4.0 Nm (35 in-lbs) in a crisscross pattern (do not overtighten).
Step 7: Lift the fuel pump module out
- Carefully lift the module straight up; tilt as needed to clear the float arm (the fuel level sensor arm).
- Have the plastic catch pan ready—fuel in the module will spill.
- Remove the old tank seal (O-ring/gasket) from the tank opening by hand.
Step 8: Install the new seal and module
- Install the new fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) onto the tank opening (or as supplied with your part).
- Lower the new fuel pump module into the tank, keeping the float arm from binding.
- Align to your paint marker marks.
Step 9: Reinstall the lock ring / fasteners
- Lock ring style: Start the ring by hand, then tighten using the fuel pump lock ring wrench (specialty) until fully seated and aligned.
- Nut/bolt style: Tighten in a crisscross pattern using a 10mm socket, then Torque to 4.0 Nm (35 in-lbs).
Step 10: Reconnect fuel line(s) and electrical
- Push the quick-connect fuel line on until it clicks; tug lightly to confirm it’s locked.
- Reconnect the electrical connector(s) until the lock clicks.
Step 11: Reinstall the access cover and rear seat
- Reinstall the access cover using a Phillips screwdriver.
- Reinstall the rear seat cushion (and any bolts) using a 12mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
Step 12: Reconnect the 12V battery
- Reconnect the negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
âś… After Repair
- Turn the car to READY and let it sit for 10–20 seconds to allow the system to pressurize.
- Check carefully for fuel smell or wetness at the line connection and around the module opening.
- If you have a check engine light, scan and clear codes after confirming there are no leaks.
- Take a short test drive, then re-check for leaks again.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $700-$1,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)
You Save: $520-$750 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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