🔧 Grand Cherokee - Fuel Pump Module Replacement

Replacing the fuel pump on your Grand Cherokee means removing the fuel tank and replacing the in-tank fuel pump module. The pump is part of a module assembly that includes the fuel level sender and sealing gasket.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🔥 Gasoline is highly flammable. Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area away from sparks, heaters, cigarettes, and open flames.
• 🧯 Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby before opening the fuel system.
• 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near fuel lines or tank wiring.
• ⛽ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line.
• 🚫 Do not use power tools that can create sparks near an open fuel tank.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves. Gasoline can damage skin and eyes.
• ⚠️ The fuel tank is heavy and awkward. Use a transmission jack or floor jack with a wide wood block to support it.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 3/8-inch extension set
• Torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs
• Fuel line disconnect tool set 3/8-inch and 5/16-inch
• Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
• Brass punch
• Dead blow hammer
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Transmission jack (specialty)
• Wood block 12-inch minimum
• Drain pan 2-gallon minimum
• Shop towels
• Fuel-resistant gloves
• Safety glasses
• Class B fire extinguisher

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module tank seal - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump lock ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel line retaining clips - Qty: As needed
• Fuel-safe absorbent pads - Qty: 1 pack

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Grand Cherokee on level ground and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks in front of and behind the front wheels.
• ⛽ Run the fuel tank as low as possible before starting. A nearly empty tank is much safer and lighter.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable, then move it away from the battery post.
• 📌 A fuel line disconnect tool releases the spring clips inside quick-connect fuel fittings without breaking them.
• 📌 A fuel pump lock ring tool turns the large retaining ring that holds the pump module to the tank.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve Fuel Pressure

• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable if you have not already done so.
• Remove the fuel filler cap by hand to release any tank vapor pressure.
• Place shop towels around the fuel line connection at the tank before disconnecting it later.
• Go slow. Fuel may still spray.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the rear of your Grand Cherokee at the rear axle center section.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper rear frame support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands and lightly shake the body to confirm it is stable.
• Keep the floor jack nearby for supporting the fuel tank.

Step 3: Remove Rear Underbody Shields if Equipped

• Use a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool to remove any plastic underbody shields blocking the fuel tank.
• Set all bolts and clips aside in a small tray so they do not get lost.
• If a shield uses push clips, use the trim clip removal tool to lift the center pin first, then remove the clip body.

Step 4: Support the Fuel Tank

• Place a transmission jack under the fuel tank.
• If using a floor jack, place a wood block 12-inch minimum between the jack saddle and tank to spread the weight.
• Raise the jack just enough to touch and support the tank. Do not crush the tank.

Step 5: Disconnect the Fuel Filler and Vent Hoses

• Use a flat-blade screwdriver or 8mm socket if your hose clamps use screw clamps.
• Use needle-nose pliers if your hose clamps use spring clamps.
• Slide the clamps back, then twist the filler hose and vent hose gently to break them loose.
• Pull the hoses off the tank neck by hand.
• Mark hose positions before removal.

Step 6: Disconnect Fuel Tank Wiring

• Use a trim clip removal tool to release any harness retainers attached to the tank or body.
• Press the locking tab on the fuel pump electrical connector and unplug it by hand.
• Do not pull on the wires. Pull only on the connector body.

Step 7: Disconnect Fuel and EVAP Lines

• Place a drain pan 2-gallon minimum under the fuel line area.
• Wrap the fuel line connection with shop towels.
• Use the correct 3/8-inch or 5/16-inch fuel line disconnect tool to release the quick-connect fuel line.
• Use needle-nose pliers or your fingers to release EVAP line locking tabs, then pull the lines straight off.
• Cap or cover open lines with clean shop towels to keep dirt out.

Step 8: Remove the Fuel Tank Straps

• Double-check that the jack is supporting the tank.
• Use a 13mm socket or 15mm socket to remove the fuel tank strap bolts, depending on the strap bolt head size installed.
• Lower each strap away from the tank.
• Keep one hand on the tank while removing the last strap bolt.

Step 9: Lower the Fuel Tank

• Use the transmission jack or floor jack to lower the tank slowly a few inches.
• Stop and check for any remaining hoses, wiring, or clips still attached.
• Disconnect anything still attached using the correct tool from the steps above.
• Lower the tank fully and slide it out from under the vehicle.

Step 10: Clean Around the Fuel Pump Module

• Use shop towels to wipe dirt from the top of the tank around the fuel pump module.
• Do not let dirt fall into the tank opening.
• If compressed air is available, use low pressure only and keep sparks or electric tools away from fuel vapors.

Step 11: Remove the Fuel Pump Lock Ring

• Use the fuel pump lock ring tool to turn the lock ring counterclockwise.
• If the lock ring tool does not fit, use a brass punch and dead blow hammer to tap the ring counterclockwise.
• Use only a brass punch, not a steel chisel, because brass is less likely to spark.
• Lift the lock ring off the tank.

Step 12: Remove the Old Fuel Pump Module

• Lift the fuel pump module straight up by hand.
• Tilt it slightly as needed to clear the fuel level float arm.
• Let fuel drain from the module into the tank before moving it away.
• Remove the old tank seal by hand and discard it.

Step 13: Install the New Fuel Pump Module

• Install the new fuel pump module tank seal into the tank opening by hand.
• Lightly wet the seal with clean gasoline to help it seat. Do not use grease unless the pump instructions allow it.
• Lower the new fuel pump module into the tank carefully so the float arm does not bend.
• Align the module index marks with the marks on the tank.

Step 14: Install the New Lock Ring

• Place the new fuel pump lock ring over the module.
• Use the fuel pump lock ring tool to turn the lock ring clockwise until fully seated against the tank stops.
• If using a brass punch and dead blow hammer, tap evenly around the ring until it locks fully.
• Make sure the module does not rotate out of alignment while tightening.

Step 15: Reinstall the Fuel Tank

• Place the fuel tank back on the transmission jack or floor jack with wood block.
• Raise the tank slowly into position.
• Pause halfway and reconnect the fuel pump electrical connector by hand.
• Reconnect the fuel and EVAP lines by pushing each connector on until it clicks.
• Gently tug each line by hand to confirm it is locked.

Step 16: Reinstall the Tank Straps

• Position the fuel tank straps by hand.
• Start all strap bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 13mm socket or 15mm socket to snug the strap bolts.
• Use a torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs to tighten the fuel tank strap bolts to Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Reconnect Filler and Vent Hoses

• Push the fuel filler hose and vent hose fully onto the tank neck by hand.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver or 8mm socket to tighten screw clamps.
• Use needle-nose pliers to reposition spring clamps in their original locations.
• Make sure the hoses are not kinked or rubbing on sharp edges.

Step 18: Reinstall Underbody Shields

• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall any underbody shield bolts.
• Use the trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall push clips.
• Confirm no wiring or hoses are trapped above the shields.

Step 19: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the rear slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the vehicle slowly to the ground.

Step 20: Reconnect Battery and Prime the Fuel System

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Turn the ignition to RUN without starting the engine for 5 seconds.
• Turn the ignition OFF for 10 seconds.
• Repeat this key cycle 3-4 times to fill the fuel lines with pressure.
• Start the engine and let it idle.

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✅ After Repair

• 👃 Check carefully for fuel smell around the tank, fuel lines, and filler neck.
• 💧 Look under the vehicle for any fuel leaks while the engine idles.
• ⛽ Add fuel and confirm the fuel gauge responds correctly.
• 🚗 Take a short test drive, then recheck for leaks.
• ⚠️ If the engine cranks but will not start, stop and recheck the pump electrical connector and fuel line connection.
• 🧼 Dispose of fuel-soaked towels safely according to local hazardous waste rules.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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