🔧 Juke - Fuel Pump Replacement

The fuel pump on your Juke is part of an in-tank pump module that sits inside the fuel tank. Most replacements are done from inside the cabin through a service cover under the rear seat, so you usually don’t need to drop the tank.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

Assumption: your Juke has a rear-seat access cover (common).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work outside or in strong ventilation; fuel vapors ignite easily.
• ⚠️ No smoking, flames, heat guns, or incandescent drop lights nearby.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent sparks.
• ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel lines.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and fuel-resistant gloves; fuel can splash.
• ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3" extension (3/8" drive)
• Phillips #2 screwdriver
• Flat trim tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Small pick tool
• Fuel line disconnect tool set
• Brass drift punch
• Small hammer
• Torque wrench (inch-pound or Nm capable)
• Shop towels
• Drain pan
• Marker or paint pen
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump lock ring (if damaged) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Open the fuel door to reduce tank vapor pressure.
• Relieve fuel pressure:
  • Remove the fuel pump fuse/relay (engine bay IPDM/fuse box), then start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
  • Crank the engine for 3–5 seconds to clear remaining pressure.
• Disconnect the battery:
  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Access the fuel pump service cover

• Fold the rear seat cushion up, or remove it if equipped.
• Remove any clips/fasteners using a flat trim tool and/or 10mm socket.
• Lift carpet/insulation to expose the round/oval service cover.
• Remove the service cover screws using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.

Step 2: Clean the area (important)

• Wipe dirt off the top of the pump module and surrounding metal using shop towels.
• Place a drain pan nearby to catch any fuel drips.
• Cleanliness prevents injector-clogging debris.

Step 3: Disconnect the electrical connector

• Press the connector lock and unplug it by hand.
• If the lock is stubborn, gently help it with a small pick tool (a pick is a small pointed hook tool used to release clips).

Step 4: Disconnect the fuel line(s)

• Wrap the connection with shop towels to catch spray.
• Release the quick-connect fitting:
  • Use needle-nose pliers or a fuel line disconnect tool set (a plastic tool that separates quick-connect fuel fittings) depending on the connector style.
• Cap/cover the line end with a clean towel to keep dirt out.

Step 5: Mark the module orientation

• Use a marker or paint pen to mark the relationship between the pump module and the tank opening.
• This helps the new module sit correctly and keeps hoses from twisting.

Step 6: Remove the lock ring

• Use a brass drift punch and small hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases.
• Work evenly around the ring so it doesn’t bind.
• Brass reduces spark risk versus steel.

Step 7: Remove the fuel pump module

• Carefully lift the module straight up; angle it as needed to clear the float arm.
• Let fuel drain from the module into the tank, then move it to the drain pan.
• Remove the old tank seal (O-ring) from the tank opening by hand or with a small pick tool.

Step 8: Install the new seal and module

• Install the new tank seal (O-ring) into the tank groove by hand.
• Lower the new pump module into place, keeping your alignment marks matched.
• Make sure the seal stays seated and does not pinch or roll.

Step 9: Reinstall and tighten the lock ring

• Install the lock ring and hand-start it straight.
• Tap it clockwise using the brass drift punch and small hammer until fully seated.
• If you have a lock-ring tool and spec for your parts, use a torque wrench and Torque to factory specification.
• Do not overtighten; the tank flange can crack.

Step 10: Reconnect the fuel line and electrical connector

• Reconnect the fuel line until it clicks; then pull back gently to confirm it’s locked.
• Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.

Step 11: Reinstall the service cover and seat

• Reinstall the service cover using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
• Reposition carpet/insulation.
• Reinstall rear seat fasteners using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket (snug, do not strip).
• Prime the system:
  • Turn ignition to ON (do not start) for 5 seconds, then OFF.
  • Repeat 3–4 times to build fuel pressure.
• Start the engine and let it idle 1–2 minutes.
• Check carefully for leaks at the fuel line connection and around the lock ring.
• If a check engine light appears, scan for codes; a loose connector or incomplete prime is common.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$750 (parts only)

You Save: $400-$450+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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