How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2011-2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee (In-Tank Module) (Engine: V6 3.6L)
Step-by-step fuel tank drop instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2011-2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee (In-Tank Module) (Engine: V6 3.6L)
Step-by-step fuel tank drop instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Fuel Pump Replacement
On your Grand Cherokee, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. Replacing it typically requires safely lowering the fuel tank to access the pump opening from the top of the tank.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area; fuel vapors ignite easily.
- ⚠️ No smoking, no grinding/sparks, and keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
- ⚠️ Support the tank with a transmission jack before loosening straps.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal to reduce spark risk.
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel system pressure before disconnecting any fuel line.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Fire extinguisher (Class B)
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Transmission jack (specialty)
- Socket set 8mm-18mm
- Ratchet
- Long extensions set
- Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
- Trim clip remover
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty)
- Hose clamp pliers
- Shop towels
- Drain pan
- Brass punch and hammer (specialty)
- Permanent marker
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module seal/O-ring - Qty: 1
- Fuel tank strap bolts - Qty: 2
- EVAP hose clamps - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Use wheel chocks on the front wheels.
- Lower the fuel level as much as possible (near empty makes the tank much lighter).
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Relieve fuel pressure before opening any fuel line.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve fuel system pressure
- Open the fuel filler door and loosen the gas cap to vent tank pressure.
- In the underhood fuse box (TIPM), remove the fuel pump fuse/relay using a trim clip remover or your fingers.
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls; crank for 3-5 seconds more to clear remaining pressure.
- Turn the key OFF.
Step 2: Raise and support the vehicle
- Lift the rear of your Grand Cherokee using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Support it securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear lift points.
- Keep the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) lightly supporting as a backup.
Step 3: Support the fuel tank
- Position a transmission jack (specialty) under the fuel tank.
- Place a flat piece of wood (if available) between jack and tank to spread the load.
Step 4: Remove any shields/skid plates (if equipped)
- Remove fasteners using an 8mm socket or 10mm socket (varies by shield).
- Set shields and bolts aside in order.
Step 5: Disconnect the filler neck and EVAP lines
- At the tank area, loosen hose clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver or hose clamp pliers.
- Disconnect the EVAP/vapor lines by releasing the quick-connect locks using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Use shop towels to catch any fuel drips.
Step 6: Disconnect electrical connectors at the tank
- Unplug the fuel pump module electrical connector(s) using a flat-blade screwdriver to gently lift the lock tab if needed.
- Don’t pull on wires—pull on connectors.
Step 7: Disconnect fuel supply line(s)
- Place a drain pan under the line connection.
- Use the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (specialty) to release the fuel line(s).
- Cap/cover open lines with shop towels to keep dirt out.
Step 8: Lower the tank straps and lower the tank slightly
- Remove the tank strap bolts using a 15mm socket (most common size).
- Lower the transmission jack (specialty) slowly a few inches.
- Stop and check for any remaining hoses/wires still attached; disconnect as needed using a flat-blade screwdriver.
Step 9: Lower the tank enough to access the fuel pump module
- Lower the tank until you can reach the top of the tank comfortably.
- Clean the area around the pump module using shop towels so dirt does not fall into the tank.
- Mark the module orientation with a permanent marker.
Step 10: Remove the fuel pump lock ring
- Use a brass punch and hammer (specialty) to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases.
- Lift the lock ring off and set it aside.
- Brass reduces spark risk versus steel.
Step 11: Remove the fuel pump module
- Lift the module straight up carefully; tilt as needed to clear the float arm.
- Remove the old seal/O-ring from the tank opening using a flat-blade screwdriver carefully.
Step 12: Install the new seal and new module
- Install the new seal/O-ring into the tank groove by hand (do not twist it).
- Insert the new module in the same orientation as your mark.
- Reinstall the lock ring and tap clockwise using the brass punch and hammer (specialty) until fully seated.
Step 13: Raise the tank and reconnect lines and wiring
- Raise the tank using the transmission jack (specialty) into position.
- Reconnect fuel line(s) until they click; tug lightly to confirm lock.
- Reconnect EVAP/vapor lines until they click.
- Reconnect electrical connectors.
Step 14: Reinstall tank straps and shields
- Install tank strap bolts using a 15mm socket.
- Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (10-200 Nm range).
- Reinstall any shields/skid plates using an 8mm socket or 10mm socket.
Step 15: Restore power and prime the fuel system
- Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay by hand.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Turn the key to ON (engine off) for 5 seconds, then OFF; repeat 3 times to prime.
- Start the engine and let it idle.
✅ After Repair
- Check carefully for leaks at the fuel line connections and at the tank top area.
- Confirm the fuel gauge reads reasonably and the engine runs smoothly.
- If you have a scan tool, clear any stored fuel/EVAP codes and recheck after a short drive.
- Take a short test drive, then recheck for leaks again.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $650-$950 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Fuel Pump Module Assembly replace for these Jeep vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V6 3.6L | - |
| 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V8 5.7L | - |
| 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V8 6.4L | - |
| 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V6 3.0L | - |
| 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V6 3.6L | - |
| 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V8 5.7L | - |
| 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V8 6.4L | - |
| 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V6 3.0L | - |
| 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V6 3.6L | - |
| 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V8 5.7L | - |
| 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V8 6.4L | - |
| 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V6 3.6L | - |
| 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V8 5.7L | - |
| 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V8 6.4L | - |
| 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V6 3.6L | - |
| 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V8 5.7L | - |


















