🔧 Fuel Pump - Replacement

Your Sierra uses an in-tank fuel pump module, so the repair means relieving fuel pressure, lowering the fuel tank, and swapping the pump assembly. This is a messy, flammable repair, so take your time and work safely. A clean workspace and a nearly empty tank make the job much easier.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area. Fuel vapors are dangerous.
• No smoking, sparks, open flames, heat guns, or drop lights near the fuel system.
• Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel lines.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting. Reconnect only after all fuel lines are secured.
• Use approved fuel-safe drain containers if the tank must be emptied.
• Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack or floor jack before removing straps.
• Keep a class B fire extinguisher nearby.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Pliers
• Torque wrench
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated for truck weight)
• Transmission jack or wide jack saddle
• Drain pan
• Shop towels
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
• Fuel tank module seal/gasket - Qty: 1
• Fuel pump locking ring - Qty: 1
• Fuel filter - Qty: 1
• Fuel tank strap bolts - Qty: 2
• Fuel line O-rings/clips - Qty: As needed
• Fuel tank - Qty: 1
• Fuel injector-safe cleaner - Qty: 1 can

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📋 Before You Begin

• Run the tank as low as safely possible before starting. A nearly empty tank is much lighter and easier to lower.
• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Relieve fuel system pressure at the fuel rail service port if equipped, or by following the key-off pressure bleed procedure for this truck.
• Support the truck securely on jack stands before working underneath it.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure and disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Relieve fuel pressure before opening any fuel line.
• Wrap shop towels around fittings.

Step 2: Raise and support the truck

• Use a floor jack to raise the rear of the truck, then support it with jack stands.
• Make sure the truck is stable before crawling underneath.

Step 3: Remove the fuel tank shield and disconnect hoses

• Use a 13mm socket or 15mm socket to remove any skid plate or shield hardware, if equipped.
• Disconnect the filler neck hose, vent hoses, and evap lines with pliers and a flat-blade screwdriver as needed.
• Use the fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty) to separate the fuel supply and return lines.
• Label hoses before removal.

Step 4: Support the fuel tank

• Place a transmission jack or wide jack saddle under the tank.
• Raise it slightly so the tank is supported but not lifted.

Step 5: Remove the tank straps

• Use a 15mm socket to remove the tank strap bolts.
• Lower the straps carefully and keep them positioned for reinstallation.
• Torque on installation: Torque strap bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Lower and remove the fuel tank

• Slowly lower the tank with the jack while watching for any still-connected hoses or wires.
• Disconnect the electrical connector to the pump module once it is accessible.
• Lower the tank fully and slide it out from under the truck.

Step 7: Replace the fuel pump module

• Clean the top of the tank with shop towels before opening it.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver and brass drift or locking ring tool to remove the locking ring, if equipped.
• Lift out the old fuel pump module carefully.
• Install the new fuel tank module seal/gasket and the new pump module.
• Install the locking ring and seat it fully.
• Keep dirt out of the tank.

Step 8: Reinstall the fuel tank

• Raise the tank back into position with the transmission jack or wide jack saddle.
• Reconnect the electrical connector and all fuel/EVAP lines.
• Install the tank straps and tighten with a 15mm socket.
• Torque tank strap bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reconnect hoses, shield, and battery

• Reconnect the filler neck, vent hoses, and fuel lines using the fuel line disconnect tool set (specialty) where needed.
• Reinstall any shield or skid plate with a 13mm socket or 15mm socket.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.

Step 10: Prime and check for leaks

• Turn the key to ON for 2-3 seconds, then OFF. Repeat 3-4 times to prime the system.
• Start the engine and inspect all fuel connections for leaks.
• Torque any access cover fasteners to snug fit if applicable; do not overtighten plastic parts.

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✅ After Repair

• Let the engine idle for a few minutes and confirm smooth operation.
• Check under the truck for fuel seepage after the first drive.
• If the engine cranks longer than normal, cycle the key ON/OFF again to finish priming.
• If a check engine light is present, scan for fuel pressure or evaporative system codes.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.