How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2008-2012 Honda Accord (In-Tank Module Guide) (Trim: EX | Engine: V6 3.5L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step rear seat access instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and leak checks
How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2008-2012 Honda Accord (In-Tank Module Guide) (Trim: EX | Engine: V6 3.5L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step rear seat access instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and leak checks for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012
🔧 Accord - Fuel Pump Replacement
On your Accord, the fuel pump sits inside the fuel tank as part of an in-tank pump module, accessed from inside the car under the rear seat. Replacement is mostly careful disassembly, keeping dirt out of the tank, and making sure the fuel lines and seal are reinstalled correctly to prevent leaks.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area—fuel vapors are flammable.
- ⚠️ No smoking, no sparks, and keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
- ⚠️ Depressurize the fuel system before disconnecting any fuel line.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to reduce spark risk.
- ⚠️ Clean the area before opening the tank—dirt in the tank can damage the new pump.
- ⚠️ If fuel spills, stop and clean it immediately.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Fire extinguisher (Class B)
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3/8" extension set
- Torque wrench (in-lb)
- Phillips screwdriver
- Trim removal tool
- Small pick tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Shop towels
- Catch pan
- Hand vacuum or compressed air blow gun
- Fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module seal O-ring - Qty: 1
- Fuel strainer sock - Qty: 1
- Lock ring (if damaged or specified with module) - Qty: 1
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🧯 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and open all doors for ventilation.
- 🧻 Have shop towels and a catch pan ready for small fuel drips.
- 🔌 Depressurize fuel pressure: remove the fuel pump fuse/relay shown on the fuse box cover (use the cover legend), start the engine, and let it run until it stalls; then crank 3-5 seconds more. Turn key OFF.
- 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- 🧼 Vacuum/blow off dust around the rear seat and access area so debris can’t fall into the tank.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the rear seat bottom cushion
- Use a trim removal tool to release the seat cushion clips (work gently so you don’t break them).
- If equipped with seat cushion bolts, remove them with a 12mm socket.
- Lift the cushion out and set it aside.
Step 2: Remove the fuel pump access cover
- Locate the service cover over the fuel pump area.
- Remove cover fasteners using a Phillips screwdriver or 10mm socket (varies by cover).
- Lift the cover and set it aside.
Step 3: Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector
- Press the connector lock tab and unplug it by hand.
- If the tab is stubborn, use a small pick tool to lift the lock gently. Don’t pry hard; tabs break easily.
Step 4: Clean the top of the pump module
- Use a hand vacuum or compressed air blow gun to remove all dirt around the pump module and lock ring.
- Wipe the area with shop towels.
Step 5: Disconnect the fuel line(s)
- Place shop towels under the connection and a catch pan nearby.
- Release the quick-connect fitting by squeezing the connector tabs (use needle-nose pliers only if needed) and pull the line straight off.
- Cap/cover the line ends with a clean towel to keep dirt out.
Step 6: Remove the lock ring
- Mark the module position with a Phillips screwdriver (light scratch mark on the metal ring/area) so you can reinstall in the same orientation.
- Use a fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) and a 3/8" ratchet to loosen and remove the lock ring.
Step 7: Remove the fuel pump module
- Carefully lift the module straight up while guiding the float arm (fuel level sender) out without bending it.
- Angle the module slightly as needed to clear the opening, and let fuel drain into the catch pan.
- Remove the old seal O-ring from the tank opening using a small pick tool.
Step 8: Install the new seal and module
- Install the new fuel pump module seal O-ring into the tank groove by hand (no twists).
- Apply a very light film of clean fuel to the O-ring using a nitrile-gloved finger so it doesn’t pinch.
- Lower the new module in, guiding the float arm in carefully.
- Align the module to your marks or the molded alignment indicators on the tank/module.
Step 9: Reinstall and tighten the lock ring
- Install the lock ring by hand first to avoid cross-threading or mis-seating.
- Use the fuel pump lock ring tool (specialty) with a 3/8" ratchet to tighten until the lock ring alignment marks fully seat and match the housing indicators.
- If your lock ring tool accepts a torque wrench, use a torque wrench (in-lb) and tighten to the specification supplied with the module/service information. Correct seating matters more than “extra tight”.
Step 10: Reconnect fuel line(s) and electrical connector
- Push the fuel line on until it clicks; then pull back gently to confirm it’s locked.
- Reconnect the electrical connector until it clicks.
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the connector seal if it’s dry (light film only).
Step 11: Reinstall access cover and rear seat
- Reinstall the service cover using a Phillips screwdriver or 10mm socket.
- Reinstall the rear seat cushion and any bolts using a 12mm socket.
- If you removed seat bolts and have a torque wrench, Torque to 22 Nm (16 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- 🔋 Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- ⛽ Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay (use the fuse box cover legend).
- 🔑 Prime the system: turn key to ON for 5 seconds (don’t crank), OFF for 5 seconds; repeat 3 times.
- 👃 Check carefully for fuel smell and inspect for leaks at the pump top and line connection before starting.
- 🚗 Start the engine and let it idle 2-3 minutes; recheck for leaks.
- 🧰 If the check engine light is on, clear codes with a scan tool after confirming there are no leaks.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $650-$1,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)
You Save: $470-$750 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Fuel Pump Module Assembly replace for these Honda vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2012 Honda Accord | EX | V6 3.5L | Sedan |
| 2012 Honda Accord | EX | V6 3.5L | Coupe |
| 2012 Honda Accord | EX-L | V6 3.5L | Sedan |
| 2012 Honda Accord | EX-L | V6 3.5L | Coupe |
| 2011 Honda Accord | EX | V6 3.5L | Sedan |
| 2011 Honda Accord | EX | V6 3.5L | Coupe |
| 2011 Honda Accord | EX-L | V6 3.5L | Sedan |
| 2011 Honda Accord | EX-L | V6 3.5L | Coupe |
| 2010 Honda Accord | EX | V6 3.5L | Sedan |
| 2010 Honda Accord | EX | V6 3.5L | Coupe |
| 2010 Honda Accord | EX-L | V6 3.5L | Sedan |
| 2010 Honda Accord | EX-L | V6 3.5L | Coupe |
| 2009 Honda Accord | EX | V6 3.5L | Sedan |
| 2009 Honda Accord | EX | V6 3.5L | Coupe |
| 2009 Honda Accord | EX-L | V6 3.5L | Sedan |
| 2009 Honda Accord | EX-L | V6 3.5L | Coupe |
| 2008 Honda Accord | EX | V6 3.5L | Sedan |
| 2008 Honda Accord | EX | V6 3.5L | Coupe |
| 2008 Honda Accord | EX-L | V6 3.5L | Sedan |
| 2008 Honda Accord | EX-L | V6 3.5L | Coupe |

















