How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2006-2011 Honda Civic (In-Tank Module Under Rear Seat) (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with safety tips, required tools/parts, and priming steps to check for leaks
How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2006-2011 Honda Civic (In-Tank Module Under Rear Seat) (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with safety tips, required tools/parts, and priming steps to check for leaks for 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011
🔧 Civic - Fuel Pump Replacement
On your Civic, the fuel pump sits inside the fuel tank as part of an in-tank “fuel pump module.” Replacement is done from inside the car (under the rear seat) so you don’t normally drop the tank. You’ll relieve fuel pressure, remove the access cover, lift the module out, and install the new one with a new seal.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors ignite easily.
- ⚠️ No smoking, flames, heaters, or incandescent work lights near the car.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before opening the fuel system.
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting fuel lines to avoid spray.
- ⚠️ Keep a fire extinguisher rated for fuel fires nearby.
- ⚠️ Clean dirt around the pump opening; debris in the tank can damage the new pump.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Fire extinguisher (Class B)
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- Phillips screwdriver #2
- Plastic trim removal tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Small flat-blade screwdriver
- Brass punch (specialty)
- Small hammer
- Shop towels
- Catch pan
- Vacuum or compressed air blower
- Non-sparking flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring/gasket) - Qty: 1
- New hose clamp(s) (if equipped) - Qty: 1-2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and open the driver window.
- Use a non-sparking flashlight and keep the interior well ventilated.
- Have shop towels ready for small fuel spills.
- Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back. This prevents sparks.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve fuel pressure
- Open the under-hood fuse/relay box.
- Use needle-nose pliers to pull the fuel pump fuse (or fuel pump relay, depending on label).
- Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
- Crank again for 2–3 seconds to bleed off remaining pressure.
- Turn the key OFF and keep the fuse/relay out for now.
Step 2: Remove the rear seat bottom
- From the rear seat area, use a plastic trim removal tool to help pop the seat bottom up at the front edge (it’s held by clips).
- Lift the seat bottom out and set it aside.
Step 3: Remove the fuel pump access cover
- Locate the metal access cover in the floor area under the rear seat.
- Use a Phillips screwdriver #2 to remove the cover screws (if sealed, gently pry with a small flat-blade screwdriver).
- Use a vacuum or compressed air blower to clean dirt from the top of the module and surrounding area. Clean first, open second.
Step 4: Disconnect the wiring connector
- Press the lock tab and unplug the electrical connector from the module.
- If the lock is stubborn, use a small flat-blade screwdriver to gently help the tab (don’t break it).
Step 5: Disconnect the fuel lines
- Place shop towels and a catch pan under the lines.
- For the quick-connect fitting: squeeze the connector tabs and pull the line straight off.
- If a spring clamp is used: use needle-nose pliers to slide the clamp back, then twist and pull the hose off.
- Cap/cover the open line ends with clean shop towels to keep dirt out.
Step 6: Remove the locking ring
- The pump module is held by a round locking ring.
- Use a brass punch (specialty) and small hammer to tap the ring counterclockwise until it releases.
- Brass is used to reduce spark risk.
Step 7: Lift out the fuel pump module
- Carefully lift the module straight up.
- Angle it as needed to clear the float arm (fuel level sender) without bending it.
- Let fuel drain into the tank, then move the module to the catch pan.
- Remove and discard the old tank seal (O-ring/gasket).
Step 8: Install the new seal and module
- Install the new tank seal in the tank opening (same position as the old one).
- Lower the new module into the tank, guiding the float arm carefully.
- Align the module’s locating marks/tabs with the tank opening so it seats flat.
Step 9: Reinstall and tighten the locking ring
- Start the locking ring by hand to avoid cross-threading or mis-seating.
- Use the brass punch (specialty) and small hammer to tap the ring clockwise until fully seated.
- Note: This ring is typically seated to its stop/alignment marks (not a common “torque wrench” fastener). Tighten until it is fully locked and evenly seated all the way around.
Step 10: Reconnect fuel lines and wiring
- Reconnect the fuel line(s) until you feel/hear a click (quick-connect) or reinstall the clamp using needle-nose pliers.
- Gently tug the line to confirm it’s locked.
- Plug in the electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 11: Reinstall the access cover and rear seat
- Reinstall the access cover using a Phillips screwdriver #2 and snug the screws evenly.
- Reinstall the rear seat bottom: hook the rear edge first, then press down at the front until the clips snap in.
Step 12: Restore power and prime the system
- Reinstall the fuel pump fuse/relay.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Turn the key to ON (not start) for 2 seconds, then OFF. Repeat 3 times to prime the fuel system.
- Start the engine.
✅ After Repair
- With the engine running, check carefully for leaks at the fuel line connections and around the module seal.
- If you smell fuel inside, shut the engine off and re-check the locking ring seating and line connections.
- Test drive for 10–15 minutes, then re-check for any fuel odor or dampness.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $500-$1,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $200-$600 (parts only)
You Save: $300-$400+ by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Fuel Pump Module Assembly replace for these Honda vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2011 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 1.8L | - |
| 2010 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 1.8L | - |
| 2009 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 1.8L | - |
| 2008 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 1.8L | - |
| 2007 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 1.8L | - |
| 2006 Honda Civic | - | Inline 4 1.8L | - |


















