How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2006-2007 Chevrolet Impala (In-Tank Module Guide) (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step fuel tank drop instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs
How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2006-2007 Chevrolet Impala (In-Tank Module Guide) (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step fuel tank drop instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2006, 2007
🔧 Impala - Fuel Pump Replacement
On your Impala, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. Replacing it usually requires lowering the fuel tank so you can remove the lock ring and lift the module out safely.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Gasoline is highly flammable—work outside, no sparks/flames.
- ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel lines.
- ⚠️ Support the tank with a jack before removing strap bolts.
- ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental sparks.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Class B fire extinguisher
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension set
- Torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (5/16" and 3/8")
- Fuel-safe drain pan
- Hand siphon pump (fuel-safe)
- Brass drift punch (specialty)
- Small hammer
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Fuel pump module assembly (with level sender) - Qty: 1
- Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring) - Qty: 1
- Fuel filter/regulator - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
- Run the fuel level as low as possible (1/8 tank is ideal).
- Plan a clean work area: dirt in the tank can damage the new pump.
- Know your tools: a fuel line quick-disconnect tool is a small plastic tool that releases the spring-lock inside GM fuel line fittings.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the battery
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the negative battery cable from the battery.
- Tuck the cable aside so it can’t spring back.
Step 2: Relieve fuel pressure
- Open the hood and locate the fuel rail Schrader valve (it looks like a tire valve).
- Wrap the valve with shop towels, then carefully depress the valve core using a flat-blade screwdriver to bleed pressure into the towel.
- Wear safety glasses—fuel can spray.
Step 3: Safely raise and support the rear
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear of the car at a proper jacking point.
- Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) before going underneath.
Step 4: Reduce fuel weight (recommended)
- If needed, siphon fuel into an approved container using a hand siphon pump (fuel-safe) and a fuel-safe drain pan.
- Lighter tank = easier and safer.
Step 5: Support the fuel tank
- Position the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the center of the fuel tank.
- Use a flat piece of wood (if available) between the jack and tank to spread the load.
Step 6: Disconnect filler neck and vent connections
- At the fuel fill area/underbody, loosen clamps as needed using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Work the hoses off carefully—twist gently, don’t rip them.
Step 7: Disconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines
- Lower the tank slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to access the top connections.
- Unplug the pump module electrical connector by hand (use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if the lock tab is stubborn).
- Use the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (5/16" and 3/8") to disconnect the fuel supply/return lines.
- Catch any drips with a fuel-safe drain pan and shop towels.
Step 8: Remove the tank straps and lower the tank
- Use a 15mm socket (and 3/8" drive extension set) to remove the fuel tank strap bolts.
- Lower the tank slowly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), checking constantly for anything still connected.
- When reinstalling strap bolts later: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Clean the pump module area
- With the tank on the ground, clean dirt from around the pump module flange using shop towels.
- Clean first to protect the new pump.
Step 10: Remove the fuel pump lock ring
- Use a brass drift punch (specialty) and small hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases.
- Lift the lock ring off and remove the old seal (O-ring).
- Do not use a steel punch—brass reduces spark risk.
Step 11: Remove and replace the fuel pump module
- Carefully lift the module out of the tank, angling as needed to avoid bending the level float arm.
- Pour remaining fuel from the module into the tank using a fuel-safe drain pan as needed.
- Install the new fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring) into the tank groove.
- Lower the new module into the tank, making sure it is fully seated and aligned.
Step 12: Install and seat the lock ring
- Reinstall the lock ring and tap it clockwise using the brass drift punch (specialty) and small hammer until fully seated at the stops.
- Confirm the seal isn’t pinched and the module flange is even all the way around.
Step 13: Reinstall the tank
- Raise the tank with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Reconnect fuel lines using the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (5/16" and 3/8") as needed, then tug lightly to confirm they locked.
- Reconnect the electrical connector by hand until it clicks.
- Reconnect filler/vent hoses and tighten clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Reinstall tank straps and bolts using a 15mm socket.
- Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 14: Lower the car and reconnect the battery
- Raise the car slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), then lower to the ground.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Cycle the key: turn to ON for 2 seconds, OFF for 10 seconds, repeat 3 times to prime the system.
- Start the engine and let it idle while you check underneath for leaks at the tank and fuel line connections.
- If the fuel gauge reads wrong, recheck that the module is fully seated and connected.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,500 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $220-$500 (parts only)
You Save: $400-$1,200 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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