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2007 Chevrolet Impala
2006 - 2007 Chevrolet Impala
V6 3.9L
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  • Guides
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  • Chevrolet Impala
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  • 2007
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  • How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2006-2007 Chevrolet Impala (In-Tank Module Guide) (Engine: V6 3.5L)
2006-2013 Chevrolet Impala Fuel Tank Removal-How To Guide.

2006-2013 Chevrolet Impala Fuel Tank Removal-How To Guide.

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Safety
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Glasses
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How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2006-2007 Chevrolet Impala (In-Tank Module Guide) (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step fuel tank drop instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2006-2007 Chevrolet Impala (In-Tank Module Guide) (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step fuel tank drop instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2006, 2007

Orion
Orion

🔧 Impala - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Impala, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. Replacing it usually requires lowering the fuel tank so you can remove the lock ring and lift the module out safely.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Gasoline is highly flammable—work outside, no sparks/flames.
  • ⚠️ Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel lines.
  • ⚠️ Support the tank with a jack before removing strap bolts.
  • ⚠️ Keep a Class B fire extinguisher nearby.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental sparks.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Class B fire extinguisher
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive extension set
  • Torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
  • 10mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (5/16" and 3/8")
  • Fuel-safe drain pan
  • Hand siphon pump (fuel-safe)
  • Brass drift punch (specialty)
  • Small hammer
  • Shop towels

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Fuel pump module assembly (with level sender) - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring) - Qty: 1
  • Fuel filter/regulator - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
  • Run the fuel level as low as possible (1/8 tank is ideal).
  • Plan a clean work area: dirt in the tank can damage the new pump.
  • Know your tools: a fuel line quick-disconnect tool is a small plastic tool that releases the spring-lock inside GM fuel line fittings.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the battery

  • Use a 10mm socket to remove the negative battery cable from the battery.
  • Tuck the cable aside so it can’t spring back.

Step 2: Relieve fuel pressure

  • Open the hood and locate the fuel rail Schrader valve (it looks like a tire valve).
  • Wrap the valve with shop towels, then carefully depress the valve core using a flat-blade screwdriver to bleed pressure into the towel.
  • Wear safety glasses—fuel can spray.

Step 3: Safely raise and support the rear

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear of the car at a proper jacking point.
  • Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) before going underneath.

Step 4: Reduce fuel weight (recommended)

  • If needed, siphon fuel into an approved container using a hand siphon pump (fuel-safe) and a fuel-safe drain pan.
  • Lighter tank = easier and safer.

Step 5: Support the fuel tank

  • Position the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the center of the fuel tank.
  • Use a flat piece of wood (if available) between the jack and tank to spread the load.

Step 6: Disconnect filler neck and vent connections

  • At the fuel fill area/underbody, loosen clamps as needed using a flat-blade screwdriver.
  • Work the hoses off carefully—twist gently, don’t rip them.

Step 7: Disconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines

  • Lower the tank slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to access the top connections.
  • Unplug the pump module electrical connector by hand (use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if the lock tab is stubborn).
  • Use the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (5/16" and 3/8") to disconnect the fuel supply/return lines.
  • Catch any drips with a fuel-safe drain pan and shop towels.

Step 8: Remove the tank straps and lower the tank

  • Use a 15mm socket (and 3/8" drive extension set) to remove the fuel tank strap bolts.
  • Lower the tank slowly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), checking constantly for anything still connected.
  • When reinstalling strap bolts later: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Clean the pump module area

  • With the tank on the ground, clean dirt from around the pump module flange using shop towels.
  • Clean first to protect the new pump.

Step 10: Remove the fuel pump lock ring

  • Use a brass drift punch (specialty) and small hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases.
  • Lift the lock ring off and remove the old seal (O-ring).
  • Do not use a steel punch—brass reduces spark risk.

Step 11: Remove and replace the fuel pump module

  • Carefully lift the module out of the tank, angling as needed to avoid bending the level float arm.
  • Pour remaining fuel from the module into the tank using a fuel-safe drain pan as needed.
  • Install the new fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring) into the tank groove.
  • Lower the new module into the tank, making sure it is fully seated and aligned.

Step 12: Install and seat the lock ring

  • Reinstall the lock ring and tap it clockwise using the brass drift punch (specialty) and small hammer until fully seated at the stops.
  • Confirm the seal isn’t pinched and the module flange is even all the way around.

Step 13: Reinstall the tank

  • Raise the tank with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Reconnect fuel lines using the fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (5/16" and 3/8") as needed, then tug lightly to confirm they locked.
  • Reconnect the electrical connector by hand until it clicks.
  • Reconnect filler/vent hoses and tighten clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
  • Reinstall tank straps and bolts using a 15mm socket.
  • Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Lower the car and reconnect the battery

  • Raise the car slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), then lower to the ground.
  • Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.

✅ After Repair

  • Cycle the key: turn to ON for 2 seconds, OFF for 10 seconds, repeat 3 times to prime the system.
  • Start the engine and let it idle while you check underneath for leaks at the tank and fuel line connections.
  • If the fuel gauge reads wrong, recheck that the module is fully seated and connected.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $400-$1,200 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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