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2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2005 - 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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2009 - 2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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  • Guides
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  • Jeep Grand Cherokee
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  • 2008
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  • How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2005-2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee (In-Tank Module) (Trim: Limited | Engine: V8 4.7L | Body: Sport Utility)
How to Replace a Fuel Pump 2005-10 Jeep Grand Cherokee

How to Replace a Fuel Pump 2005-10 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Safety
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How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2005-2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee (In-Tank Module) (Trim: Limited | Engine: V8 4.7L | Body: Sport Utility)

Step-by-step fuel tank drop instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and strap bolt torque specs

How to Replace the Fuel Pump on a 2005-2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee (In-Tank Module) (Trim: Limited | Engine: V8 4.7L | Body: Sport Utility)

Step-by-step fuel tank drop instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and strap bolt torque specs for 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010

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🔧 Grand Cherokee - Fuel Pump Replacement

On your Grand Cherokee, the fuel pump is part of an in-tank fuel pump module. The job is mainly about safely lowering the fuel tank, swapping the module and seal, then reinstalling everything without creating leaks.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🧯 Work outside or in a very well-ventilated area; fuel vapors ignite easily.
  • 🔥 No smoking, no sparks, no trouble lights with hot bulbs; use an LED work light.
  • 🛑 Relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel line to prevent spray.
  • 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable before lowering the tank.
  • 🧱 Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⛽ A full tank is very heavy; siphon fuel to make the tank easier to handle.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Fire extinguisher (Class B)
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Transmission jack (specialty)
  • Socket set (8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm)
  • Ratchet
  • Extension set (3" and 6")
  • Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Fuel line quick-disconnect tool set
  • Brass punch (specialty)
  • Hammer
  • Siphon pump (hand pump)
  • Drain pan
  • Shop rags
  • LED work light

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Fuel pump module assembly - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring gasket) - Qty: 1
  • Fuel pump module lock ring - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
  • Siphon fuel out if the tank is above 1/4 full. Lighter tank = safer job.
  • Relieve fuel pressure before opening any fuel line.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve fuel system pressure

  • Open the hood and remove the fuel pump relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box (use the diagram on the lid).
  • Start the engine and let it run until it stalls.
  • Crank the engine for 3-5 seconds to bleed off remaining pressure.
  • Turn the key off.

Step 2: Disconnect the battery

  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and set it aside so it can’t spring back.

Step 3: Raise and support the vehicle

  • Lift the rear of the vehicle with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Set it securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame.

Step 4: Support the fuel tank

  • Position a transmission jack (specialty) under the fuel tank and apply light upward pressure.
  • If using a regular jack, use a wide, flat support surface. Don’t point-load the tank.

Step 5: Disconnect the filler neck and vent connections

  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver or 8mm socket (depending on clamp type) to loosen the hose clamps at the filler neck area.
  • Use needle-nose pliers to release any spring clamps.
  • Carefully twist and pull the hoses off. Use shop rags to catch drips.

Step 6: Lower the tank slightly to access the top connections

  • Use a 13mm socket or 15mm socket (varies by fastener) with a ratchet and extensions to loosen/remove the fuel tank strap bolts.
  • Slowly lower the tank a few inches with the transmission jack (specialty) so you can reach the lines on top.
  • Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs) when reinstalling the tank strap bolts.

Step 7: Disconnect electrical connector, EVAP lines, and fuel line

  • Unplug the fuel pump module electrical connector by hand; use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if the lock tab is stubborn.
  • Disconnect EVAP/vapor lines by releasing their clips; use needle-nose pliers if needed.
  • Disconnect the main fuel line using a fuel line quick-disconnect tool set (this tool slides into the fitting to release the internal spring lock).
  • Place a drain pan underneath and wrap the connection with shop rags to catch fuel.

Step 8: Lower and remove the fuel tank

  • With everything disconnected, lower the tank fully using the transmission jack (specialty).
  • Slide the tank out from under the vehicle.

Step 9: Clean the area and remove the fuel pump lock ring

  • Use shop rags to clean dirt off the top of the tank around the module. Dirt in tank = future problems.
  • Use a brass punch (specialty) and hammer to tap the lock ring counterclockwise until it releases.
  • Remove the lock ring and lift the module straight up, tilting as needed to clear the float arm.

Step 10: Install the new seal and fuel pump module

  • Remove the old tank seal and install the new fuel pump module tank seal (O-ring gasket) in the groove.
  • Install the new module into the tank, keeping the seal seated and not pinched.
  • Install the new fuel pump module lock ring and use the brass punch (specialty) and hammer to tighten it clockwise until fully seated and aligned.

Step 11: Reinstall the fuel tank

  • Place the tank back onto the transmission jack (specialty) and raise it partway.
  • Reconnect the top electrical connector, EVAP lines, and fuel line. Use shop rags to keep everything clean.
  • Raise the tank fully and reinstall the straps using a 13mm socket or 15mm socket and ratchet.
  • Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs) for the tank strap bolts.

Step 12: Reconnect filler neck/vent hoses

  • Slide hoses fully onto their necks.
  • Tighten clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver or 8mm socket (as equipped).

Step 13: Restore power and prime the fuel system

  • Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Reinstall the fuel pump relay.
  • Cycle the key to ON (engine off) for 3 seconds, then OFF for 10 seconds; repeat 3 times to prime the system.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes.
  • Inspect for leaks at the fuel line quick-connect, module seal area, and filler neck connections using an LED work light.
  • Test drive for 10-15 minutes, then recheck for any fuel smell or seepage.
  • If you have a check engine light afterward, it may be an EVAP line not fully seated.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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